I have searched the forum and I couldn't find what Jag owners are using for their transmission filter. What do you recommend as far as filter brand and which online store?

The tranny has 82k miles never been serviced. The fluid level is within level range. This will buy me time before the drain/fill and filter change. I took a sample of the original fluid (must be Esso) - slightly darkened golden brown still clear and smooth/slippery (impressive). But I will be using Pentosin ATF1 for the fluid which is readily available in my area. Our only local certified Indy Jag shop uses this type of fluid for x308.

Thanks in advance for your continued support.

 

Rockauto has a good price on trans. filters. You might consider replacing the pressure regulator valve with the ZF upgrade at the same time, also new pan screws which have larger heads.
http://www.thectsc.com/products/main...p30-81-32.html

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...%20ZF5HP24.pdf

 

RJ237,

So a worn pressure regulator valve is the culprit for damaging the A drum. That is definitely something to consider before the inevitable happens. This will probably done when I drain and fill the tranny fluid again right before summer. The plan is to replace as much old fluids in the system.

I was planning on flushing the fluids by unhooking the line before the transcooler but no dip stick to put back the amount extracted. I've done this with my Toyota and Chevy but I will not attempt on this Jag, not yet.

I was dissappointed with the size of the pan screws, hopefully I will not strip or break them off during the process. You're right, larger/robust size will be needed.

Thanks for your help.

 

I'm not sure if that valve is going to guarantee the A-drum will not fail. The drum is definitely not robust enough for the V8, but the valve is a cheap and easy swap and ZF does recommend it. Good luck with your car.

 

I got my generic filter and gasket from Amazon.com but their are plenty of others.

A littl trick before trying to remove pan screws is to fit Torx bit on the end of an extension and using a hammer give a couple of medium blows directly upwards to each screw.
This breaks the locking compound.
This will 'shock' them before attempting to unscrew them.
Good firm pressure upwards on head of ratchet as you give a shock motion
on the handle...

 

RJ....good point but it will help to save this 'under designed' part.
It's a combination of faulty valve producing hydraulic 'spikes' that fracture
the 'A' drum rim.

 

Xjay8. Thanks for the valuable tips. I will try to loosen the screws here at home, at least I can anticipate if I get into some issues before taking the Jag to an auto hobby shop on the lift.


I just got the car right before the end of 2013 and I'm starting a fresh slate on the maintenance. Next task will be coolant flush after the tranny service.


Regarding the transmission A drum, I already expected the worst that the tranny will have to be rebuilt at some point. I'm doing my homework now for the transmission shop, and most importantly the right upgraded pressure valve and robust A drum that will be replaced along with other broken parts.


I commend those guys who did a DIY on there transmission rebuilt. Even just dropping the tranny and sending it to a shop is not an easy task.


Thank you and have a great weekend.

 

JagMoto, I think you missed the point on the valve replacement. It only takes about an hour to remove the forward valve body and switch the valves when doing a filter change. The transmission does not have to be removed. This may save the A drum.

 

RJ, I will incorporate that preventive measure on the tranny service. Very helpful info, thanks again.