XJ40 ( XJ81 ) 1986 - 1994

Balancer Bolt on Crankshaft - Removal?!?

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Old May 9, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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fastfred2888's Avatar
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Question Balancer Bolt on Crankshaft - Removal?!?

How do i get the balancer bolt out of the crankshaft on a 1994 xj6 4.0? i need to put the seal in and have been at this for 2 days. please help. Thanks, Fred
 

Last edited by H20boy; May 9, 2010 at 05:36 PM.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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fastfred, I moved your thread to this section since it wasn't such a 'general technical issue' that would cover all models.

Also, I edited your title because 'newbie needs help' won't get the attention of our more technical proficient members.

Always good etiquette to post an introduction in the New Member Area and please read the sticky thread to learn the basic forum rules and guidelines.
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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1 5/16" socket with a 2 foot 1/2" or 3/4" drive breakover bar lodged against the ground or a frame rail will lock the bolt and then a quick flip of the starter will break the bolt loose or break things in the path of the swinging bar. If the bar is properly held in place then the bolt will loosen and the damper can be remove with a puller.

bob gauff
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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hahaha thats F'in brilliant.. I never would have thought of that! lmao
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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You have to lock the motor from turning,to do that remove the plastic cover on the bottom left of the bell housing and then lock the flywheel from turning (a large screw driver should work). Then use the 1 5/16 socket with a breaker bar should do the trick (if the vehicle is elevated use a piece of strong pipe over the breaker bar for extra leverage).I dont think i would try to use the starter motor as too many bad things can happen. Once the bolt is broken loose it becomes finger tight. You will also need a puller to take the pulley off (i believe the threads are 8mmx1.25 also you should put a spacer into the crank so as to not damage the threads when using the puller). then after that you will have to take the spacer off the crank (since seal is bad pry it out carefully dont worry about the seal). A word of caution there is a casting flaw in the front cover so dont over force any thinf or you might crack the cover. Once out pull the seal out clean every thing and install spacer, then the new seal with the installing shim still in it, use a large deep socket ot large pipe of the same dimensions of the seal (dont pound too hard as the cover is weak).then reinstall pulley and lock motor from turning.
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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ps IF you are wondering how i know about the casting flaw i just bought(allmost stole one that some hamfisted mechanic broke the cover and the one i took off a dead motor had a casting flaw in the exact smae place where the other cover broke. good luck Lumppy
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 05:16 AM
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If you do the starter way, easy as, and no harm will come, UNLESS the bast$%d starts, as my V12 did. I forgot to unplug the coil lead, and hit the starter, the bolt came loose, but the engine fired, damn that bolt spun off real quick, funny as hell now, not so on the day.

I am just about to do the timing chains on the X300, and will use the starter method to undo the nut, and have the ignition and fuel fuses in my pocket, I hope. I will jam the flywheel to retighten when all is done.

Joys of ageing brain cells I am told hahaha.

Also dont hit that seal in toooooo far, there is NO lip to stop it going all the way inside the timing cover, then your vocabulay will expand very quickly.
 
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Old May 10, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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Default balencer bolt

thanks for the help, i did the bar on the ground and bumped the engine and off it came. thanks for the help, Fred
 
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