I have done searching on here and on the Jaglovers site.

So the other day I went to a car wash. When leaving water came pouring out of the dash into the passenger side of the cabin. Immediately I turned off the AC and got back to the house. I checked the floor and of course it was very wet. Looked like the water from the wash itself.

So then my search began. I cleared the Duck bill drain (VERY CLOGGED), I checked the hose that goes down on that side of the car out the bottom (for the AC I think) and it was also clogged. After clearing both of those I started her up and turned on the ac and used a cup with some water in it to pour down the air intake near the window. No water, no weird gurggling, all was good or so I thought.

The next day the transmission light came on and of course we went into limp mode. Luckily I was not far from the house so I got back and started researching again. Used the Jaglovers ebook to start diagnosing the light. Their first suggestion was to "reset" the transmission ecu by removing the battery negative side and waiting. I did that turned it all back on and she was great. No issues. Till the next day. The ac quit working.

I just had replaced the compressor and the accumulator about 9 months ago and I didn't think that was the issue. I checked the compressor and the clutch wouldn't engage. I tested the AC and all seemed to be in working order just the clutch not engaging. I was at a loss so I took it to a repair shop I trust and told him about the ac and he couldn't get to it till today. Well get a call this morning and he said they started to work on it last night and the AC was blowing cold and fine. They didn't do anything last night then this morning tried to get it to quit working and it was all ok today too. I picked it up (he didn't charge me by the way so bonus) drove it home and AC was great.

Then I was working on my other car today and needed a fuse. Went to unlock the door to get the boot open and nothing. The drivers side door was the only thing that unlocked with the key. Use the bypass for the boot and hear it clicking but nothing happens. Key wont work in the boot either. Start her up to see if I can trick it all into working and get a lightning bolt. Use the VCM and it says fuse 2. Track down the door lock fuse and it was blown. Replaced that and all worked again. then went to start it up to pull it around to the garage and the transmission light came on again.

Everything was great before the wash so I can only deduce that something got wet that shouldn't have. Before I go tearing into the dash to see if there is anything that is wrong I wanted to get some thoughts from you guys to see if maybe you knew what may have gone wrong.

Cheers.

 

Rutty,

I had to chuckle just a little reading your story, only because I've been there. Then I remembered bad karma is not a good thing.....

I think you do need to dig into the passenger side of the interior firewall. The ECU is there, and possibly it got wet, and perhaps the connectors for the lock module got wet as well. The ECU is on the firewall, next to the blower assembly.

There is also a ground on the firewall behind the blower tube connecting to the CCU assembly. It probably got wet, and dirty/contaminated grounds are one of the main culprits to "gremlins".

Also, there is the ground on the engine firewall directly behind the cam cover, above the wiper assembly housing. Clean it as well. Take sandpaper or a Dremel and clean off the oxidation on all eyelets, washers, bolts and the body metal where the connection is made. Cover with dielectric grease when done.

If possible, park the car in the sun, leave the doors/windows open for circulation and remove as much of the carpeting as possible to expedite the drying process.

I don't think you have a choice but to remove the ECU and ensure there was no water ingress in the casing, better safe than sorry. Might as well clean all connectors with an electronic cleaner while your at it.

IF the ECU did get wet, you may want to consider either pulling the blower, or at the least ensuring the blower assembly is fully seated against the body of the vehicle. Myself, I would pull the blower too if you are sure water intrusion was in the blower assembly. There is circuitry and relays in the blower assembly and you may as well ensure they are all dry and clean to prohibit corrosion on the blower components. Make sure the blower assembly is fully seated on re-install. And if one blower had water intrusion, most likely the drivers side did too, but maybe not as much. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of each of my blower assembly's for drainage purposes. I don't have a garage and living in the gulf coast, heavy rainfall is common in short time periods, so just a little debris can back up the system and result in water intrusion, and then...... gremlins.

 

Thanks Rob, That is all very good advice.

Is there a site that would show me pictures of the area and what each component looks like? While I have a Haynes manual and the other sites are helpful the part's don't look like the words that describe them.

Once I get into it I will take pictures of mine and do a write up so that someone else can see exactly what they are looking for.

For example the duck bill drain... give me a break, it only looks like that if you take it off or if you happen to have the engine out. Didn't look like the "picture" from the drivers side bonnet.

 

New development. Everything now works EXCEPT the auto locks. Fuses are all good and now I am looking for the relay that controls the locking system... says it is on the passanger side but doesn't say where. Any pictures or ideas?

 

Rutty,

I don't have a good pic of the component, thought I did, but here is one of the area where you will be looking. Hopefully someone will have a better pic of the ECU, (Don ??).

You can see the outline of where the blower assembly was, (yes, that's dust outlining the assembly housing) to the left of that will be the ECU, you can see the bracket for it in the pic. I don't want to be specific on the location of yours, our cars are three years apart and Jaguar did move things around, but the area should be consistent.

Not visible in the pic, but to the left, and above of the ECU will be the ground I was referencing, again can't be specific for your MY.

 

Behind the knee bolster, you'll see it right away, it'll say lock module on cover.

 

Just a quick suggestion re: the A/C going intermittent ..Check the clutch relay and clean the contacts. On my 94 it's on the firewall. Better yet change all the blue relays for sealed ones - I replaced all mine with URO's for about $5 apiece and that fixed a whole bunch of niggly gremlins!

good luck

Larry

 

Rutty, When Rob says "Jump," I ask, "How high?" :-)


At the link below are photos showing how to remove the passenger side knee bolster on our '93, which I believe will be similar to your '92:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


These photos show the components behind the knee bolster. Note that I use the term "CPU" instead of "ECU" :

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


Our '93 doesn't have a ground back there, but it does have the big battery power connection that passes through the firewall, and water on that is not going to help anything:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


I wholeheartedly agree, though I shy away from using sandpaper because you want a totally gas-tight joint between the nut, all eyelet terminals and the base of the threaded stud, so you don't want to create scratches that will promote future corrosion (something I learned in high-end audio). A soft wire brush on a Dremel is great, or just a small fine wire brush:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


It sounds like you might have even had water on the passenger side A-pillar fuse box, so it would be worth checking it out:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


On our '93, the door unlock and lock relays are in the relay module with the blue connector (see photo number 4):

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap...?id=1383389952


At any of the albums above click on the "My Photo Albums" to see all of my photos - there are more on other grounds, etc.

Please keep us informed, Rutty!

Cheers,

Don

 

Wow you gents are awesome. That really does help. Don thanks so much for the pictures that will be a wonderful place to start.

I will get pics as I work on her over the next week or so..

 

Excellent point Don! You are correct, and I error-ed in suggesting the sandpaper. I use the cordless Dremel with a wire brush attachment , and have been for several years now. I must admit, I've used sandpaper in a pinch on occasion.

 

how about 00 steel wool?

 

If that's what you have at your disposal, go for it, better clean than not, just don't be overly aggressive. Do you have any 0000 steel wool, the finer the better? When I did use the sandpaper is was 220 grit or finer, I can't recall. Spray all the ground parts with electronic cleaner, let dry, then reassemble and ensure you cover the assembled grounds with dielectric grease to slow down oxidation.

I bet you could find an inexpensive soft brass brush at Walmart (look in the paint dept.), or a Dollar Store, probably only $2 at the most, small head, only a 1/4" width at the most is needed. Don's point is valid.

 

Hi Rutty,

Steel wool will work (and I agree with Rob that 0000 would be better), but be aware that most steel wool retains a residue of machine oil from the manufacturing process, so you'll want to be extra thorough in flushing the components with contact cleaner to remove all traces of oil. Oil-free steel wool is available from woodworker suppliers, but I think you will find that a small wire brush is a lot easier to use and probably more effective, especially on the threads of the ground stud.

Cheers,

Don

 

Luckily for me I have another car to drive as we have been in the 100s with heat index, however this is what I have found and has happened.

The ac randomly quit blowing cold air. The speed and all is fine just no cold air. Compressor was new last year but the clutch is not engaging. I checked the relay under the hood, cleaned it up, put a volt meter on it while it clicked on (.3 ohms resistance) so that should be good. The problem would half to be before the relay if it works properly. Checked the freon pressure and it was high on the low side and nothing on high side. But since the clutch won't engage that could be it. If not maybe it's plugged up?

Also checked under the passanger area for loose cables or rust. Only thing I saw as a bit of surface rust under the blower. None of the connectors seem to be rusted or oxidized.

Door lock still randomly lock and unlock other doors when you use them.

Honestly the biggest problem is the air being in Texas. The other stuff is an annoying problem but I can deal.

I have a guy here locally that can drain and refill the freon (don't have the good pump) but the local jag repair place wanted 1800 just to diagnose and replace a fee parts which is crazy.


On another note does anyone know where to get those push plugs for the bolsters. I buggered one up when installing the pass anger side today and it is kattywompus now.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Hi Rutty,

I'm no expert on A/C but I know the system in the XJ40 depends on a number of sensors, and I think I've also heard of plugged expansion valves being an issue, which might explain your pressure readings.

I tried to attach a pdf document that describes the Delanair Mk. IV system but it must be too large. Send me your email address via private message and I'll send it to you.

Also, no offense to the knowledgeable experts here, but I recall that one or two of the regular contributors to the XJ40 forum at Jag-Lovers do their own A/C work and may be able to advise you if you post your issues there. Intermittent door lock problems have also been discussed there, so you might search the archives for ideas.

Please keep us informed!

Cheers,

Don

 

Hi Rutty,

I happened to notice this eBay listing and thought of your need for bolster (scuttle) fasteners. Check jaguarclassicparts.com to see if these are the part number you need. Our car has the "fir tree" type plastic rivets, but the ones in this listing just might work:

Jaguar White Scuttle Clip BD 37071 | eBay

Cheers,

Don

 

I wanted to give you all an update and big thank you for your help in diagnosing my "gremlins".

Turns out that the AC issue was a pin in the connector for the control unit that had been arcing which makes sense that it would work sometimes and not others. Fixed the wire and contact and back to having AC consistently.

One of the other issues with things just acting up intermittently was that the Capacitor for the starter (less than 10k miles on it) had been flooded and destroyed. It was shooting sparks all over the engine bay causing the stumbling, funny light issues, etc. Fixed that and she purrs like a kitten.

The last thing was the locks. Still can't figure that one out but I am guessing a new control unit is in my future.

In any case thank you all for your wisdom and Don especially for all the great help. I hate tracking down electrical issues but this wasn't too bad after all.

 

Hi Rutty,

Thanks for posting this follow-up to let us know how you resolved some of the issues. I hope someone can offer some tips that may help you with the locks.

Cheers,

Don

 

Ok so the last big issue is locks. The key doesn't lock or unlock the doors using the front locks. The central lock button locks them all fine, key does lock and unlock gas tank and boot just fine from front doors.

Ideas?