Hello all, I have a question regarding a replacement key for my 1989 XJ40.

It does NOT have a "barrel" style key, my car has a conventional key.

Is there a computer chip underneath the plastic head like some keys? Or can I have a standard metal key cut as a spare.

I mostly just want a spare to unlock the door in case I lock the key inside, but having it work the ignition would be nice as well. My ignition key is missing the plastic hoop for the key ring, but a previous owner drilled a small hole in the opposite corner and made a small wire loop through it.

Cheers, David

 

David - Standard key, no chip even in the later cars with the Tibbe style ign/keys.

If you can locate a blank you're golden.

Larry

 

Awesome! I saw one on evilbay, a genuine Jaguar blank.
In my research today I also found a website called keys for classics, they have original looking blanks just without the emblem on it.

In the meantime I'll see if the locksmith has a blank for it, and maybe the trunk key while I'm at it...

 

I know this thread is years old, but I thought I should share my independent findings- Triple C sells Jaguar keys of several different styles, cut or blank, Including Tibbe keys at least up through 94. I had keys cut by them for both my 40's and they work fine. TripleC.com. I have no interest in this company, just sharing.
As an edit and to be fair, I see that a member called "Sone" is also able to cut Tibbe keys although I have not used his service, again, no connection, just saying..

 

My Tibbe trunk lock cylinder has been temperamental for ever, requiring a little "jiggle" to make it unlock. As I use the trunk several times a day, it's an annoyance - recently however, that "jiggle" has been taking longer and longer to activate the lock and last week it was so obstinate that I thought I'd try using the switch in the arm rest.
You won't believe this, but the day I bought the car, the seller showed me the open trunk button function and since that day I've never figured out how to use it.

I was under the impression that central locking had failed in the trunk locking/unlocking dept. because pressing the fob locked and unlocked everything apart from the trunk - and my only option to lock the trunk was with the key. So that led me to believe that the actuator for the trunk lock was hooped ....the years flew by, and only last week, frustrated by the "jiggle" method, I reached into the arm rest, pressed the trunk release and much to my surprise, heard the trunk pop open.

Have to do something about the trunk lock cylinder though, just now thinking maybe the key is worn?

Anyway, the button in the armrest does work even after being ignored for many years!

Larry

 

I may be having a senior moment, but do I remember correctly that there are three key positions for the trunk lock? One is the position to which the key is turned to unlock the trunk. The other two are positions at which the key can be withdrawn. If the key is at one of those positions when withdrawn, the trunk will remain locked regardless of whether the doors are locked or unlocked. If the key is withdrawn in the third position, the trunk will lock and unlock with the doors.

And Larry, I can't help wondering what kind of illicit substances you're dealing out of your trunk, since you have to use it "several times a day."

Cheers,

Don

 

Yes there are three positions according to the book but I'd be damned if I could ever achieve the elusive position 3 where the fob does the lock and unlock. Maybe the key is too worn? As it is now unlocking on the switch I'm afraid to alter the position of the lock and have to go back to the "jiggling"....

Nothing exciting (or rewarding) in my trunk Don, just a bunch of fishing rods, reels and associated fishing related stuff - yes I go just about every day, tomorrow is Salmon day!!

Larry