hey guys im new to jags and my check engine light and trans light went on and stayed on i looked on this forum and decided to check the tps and it is full of oil. i was not able to clean it with anything it is almost like the oil is burnt on. 1) wheres the cheapest place to get a tps and were is the oil coming from oh! its a 92 xj6 thanks jon

 

Jon:
I would check the sponsoring vendors from this site first to price out a new TPS. Beyond that, do a price comparison from the other Jaguar suppliers by googling "jaguar parts" or some such thing. It's a good thing to shop around, but it also doesn't hurt to find a parts store you like and build some loyalty. I have found myself buying a lot from the place in Michigan because of the Midwest connection.

The throttle position sensor sits on the underside of the throttle assembly. It is thus subject to all sorts of drippage and gunk from years and years of gas and dirt and dust passing over. Dirty TPSs are absolutely common, but a faulty TPS does generally trip a fault. What I do know is that the TPS must be aligned perfectly with an ohmmeter. It takes a bit of fiddling because of it's difficult location. You'd need to refer to a manual or perhaps somebody else will chime in with the precise calibrations.

A dirty TPS does not necessarily lead to a flaky TPS. Sometimes, a good cleaning and alignment is all that is needed. Dirt on the outside of the TPS is not so much a problem as when the oil and junk gets on the inside. Some guys have had success in drilling two small holes, one one top and one on bottom in the corners just big enough for the straw of electric cleaning spray. In theory, a squirt every once in a while keeps things clean and working. What I do know is that a TPS out of range is a common source of a tripped tranny fault and "limp mode" scenario. If you have neither a TPS code nor a tranny problem, I'd say you should be good to go.

Cheers!
Scott

 

Setting the TPS is tricky. I previously had to replace mine and did the electrical tests in accordance to the Haynes manual. I ended up getting engine code after code. What I ended up doing is manually adjusting the TPS, while the engine was running. You should have the screws almost tight, just enough to move the TPS so that when making the adjustment, the TPS doesn't move back.

While adjusting it, you will find the "sweet spot" where the RPM's need to be for a low idle. Once you find that, just re-tighten the TPS and you're good to go. I should add that in order to access the TPS without moving the throttle body, you need to remove the oil filter. Replace the oil filter when your ready to test the engine. When you're ready to make the final tightening of the screws, off with the oil filter again.

* Adjustments to the TPS are made above the car from the engine bay.
* The access to the two 7/32" TPS screws are from below the car.

If you find the "sweet spot" while adjusting the TPS and the idle is still high, you'll have to mess with the Idle Adjustment Screw (which I had to do). That will lower the RPM's as you slightly adjust it. I believe that's a 7/32" Hex screw. The key to all of this is to get a balanced idle so that the engine doesn't throw a code. Do not rev up the car while you make any of the adjustments to the TPS. You're just trying to adjust the idle only.

Good luck!!

 

i took the tps off and opened it. it was full of oil where is it coming from, im not talking about dirt on the outside but the inside was litterly full of oil

 

spills, age, gas, dirt, grime... If you clean it out and do a good job of re-calibration, it might take 20 years to fill up once again! A new part, by the way, is well over a hundred dollars as I recall. It's not one of the cheaper parts.
Scott

 

i checked its resistance unfortunatly im going to need to replace it i am finding prices around $250-$290 does that sound right thanks again everyone

 

Believe it or not, I got mine on Ebay for around $75. Make sure it's the correct type.

 

oil is due to crankcase ventilation,(pvc) you may have excesive engine blow by due to worn out piston rings or use improper oil... jag reccomended 20w50.

 

Nice info in this thread. I can only imagine I'll eventually have to deal with this. Instead of dropping $230, I may have found an alternative to swapping in a new TPS. One of my friends is an electrical engineer and he thinks he could source me the mechanical parts for this (dashpot?) and help me refurbish the existing one if it fails. Whether that'd actually work or not, I don't know. But I will let you guys know if it does.

 

Shoot, forgot to quote this...I read on this forum a couple times about 20w50. First, wouldn't that be a beast to crank in the winter? Second, my owner's manual never specifically recommended that weight. It covers the range from 5w30 to 10w40 and I'm not sure if it even mentions 20w50. Or is it different with the AJ16 engine?

 

I have read and heard that up to 20-60 is specified. Back when I had PepBoys change my oil and their tech sheets specify a pretty heavy oil. My haynes says between 5-30 (for very cold) and 10-40. I stick to 10-40 I think it is a good balance between efficiency and good hold time on parts. Plus it is easy to find.

 

That kind of stinks. I was at the store the other day and was debating between 5w30 and 10w40...for some reason I decided on the 5w30 because it routinely gets to the single digits here in ND and I was going to change the oil out in 2,500 miles anyway (AutoRX). I haven't used it yet, but should I be taking it back to the store to swap for 10w40? Bear in mind this is for a 1994 with the AJ16. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

 

I am sure it is fine, especially since it is cold.