After a bit of time off I am digging back into the 71" Series 1. Looking to get the motor out for refurbish this winter and see just how bad the transmission tunnel rot is. Things went well today albeit a bit of a puzzle. Radiator out, Fan and clutch off, alternator off, started in on the York Compressor but puzzled as to how it actually comes free. Are there any previous threads that describe the process? Both my original manual and diagram seem to fall short.

 

I got through the compressor today and the power steering pump etc. i think i am headed underneath but need to jack the car up. it is in skates now but offers no working clearances. Stay tuned... I am going to continue posting progress on this thread unless it is the wrong venue.

 

Well, done. Looking forward to more posts.

Jeff H

 

I rebuilt my XJ6 Series 3 engine in the late 80s using an uncracked block. They are very heavy engines, so I bought a heavy duty engine stand. You should be able to find similar in the US. The more sophisticated stand you can afford the better. Most of them will have castors so you can push the stand with mounted engine around the workshop.
Mine took the weight OK, but when I wanted to swivel the block around to get to the bottom side, it was a real PITA to turn as t here were no bearings in the swivel ! Anyway, I managed the rebuild OK and ran the car until it was sold in 2002.

 

Finally got the motor out! I had to drop the steering rack as the sump got hung up on it and i saw no other way. My question is now that it is out in order to gain access to the rust in the floors etc. I am bringing the motor into the basement for the winter and what should I replace while it is out. the compression seemed decent and it appeared to run well but other than the normal low hanging fruit gaskets, what should i address?

 

I have always wondered, is it worth it on an otherwise good compression motor to disassemble and check bearing clearances, and instead of a re-bore just running a hone up and down the cylinders and add new stock size rings? Yes, I know it depends on cylinder taper and scoring would mean a re-bore, but if all else looks good any reason this wouldn't be beneficial. The real cost starts when you start having to magnaflux a block, bore and hone the cylinders, bore and lone hone the crank, turning and polishing the crank, new oversized pistons, etc. And of course, a completely rebuilt head. I bet on a Jag these costs add up quickly.

 

Front and rear main seals? Oil pan gasket? Those are a real bear with the engine in place.Exhaust manifold and intake gaskets?

 

None of the above. If the engine was not leaking oil or coolant prior to removal, do not touch any of the main seals.
If you do not intend to remove the head, then leave most everything as is. I would check that the rear oil external pipes are not weeping - if so, pay some attention here.
Perhaps pull the welsh plugs and blast out the water passages then replace with new brass plugs.. Check the oil bypass hose and replace if it has been there for over 20 years.

 

So the Mekon, no oil pan gasket? I will have the engine on a stand so anything that makes sense i am more than willing to do.

 

I would not call the sump an oil pan. (sorry I am not used to USA terminology) If the sump does not leak - leave well alone - unless you suspect there may be a fair bit of sludge in the bottom. Removing this sump means disturbing t front and rear seals, of which the rear will have to be renewed and can leak if not done absolutely correct.

 

It's been a cold but good day. After getting the motor on the stand did some cleaning outside before wheeling it into the basement for whatever work seems worthwhile. Still open for advice there but it seems like it should be limited to valve cover gaskets, water pump, thermostat and?

 

I would certainly look for whatever has been leaking and leaving spots on the driveway and fix them now. How about that steering rack while the motor is out? Trans front seal? Hydraulic hoses leaks are common. And as Mekon said, the welsh plugs, they rust from the backside out so you don't know until there is a stream of hot coolant where it ain't supposed to be. Fairly easy (motor out) to pop out, and clean and inspect water passages and replace with brass.

 

If you want to go with fuel injection but keep the look of the original carbs look into Patton Machine in Maine and see if he offers something for the Jag. I went this route on my 1969 Triumph TR6 and couldn't be happier with injection versus the carburetors for drivability.

TR6, 6cyl, dual Carbs W/O distributor upgrade for ignition mapping, includes Idle Air Control - Patton Machine

 

That is very cool. What does the finished engine look like?

 

I've had initial conversations with this company. They are very quick with return emails. The kit does require a return fuel line(s), so I'm waiting to change my fuel tanks
to a later S3 tanks. I have an S1 on carbs.

Jeff H.

 

It really doesn't change the look all that much. In fact, if you didn't know what to look for at a quick glance you may not even realize anything. The way the system works is a spacer that holds a GM fuel injector, top left in the previous picture, goes under the "top hat" of the carbs. You can see this in the picture below. You do have to run a high-pressure fuel pump, and return line, plus all the sensors needed to run injection.

I will also echo Jeff's comments about customer service. The owner and designer, Rick Patton, is very quick with responding to emails and will even talk to you on the phone. He provides some of the best customer support I have ever experienced.

This is how the set-up looks on my 1969 Triumph TR6.