1975 XJ6L series2 OVERHEATING!!!!?????
#1
06-04-2018, 08:27 PM
1975 XJ6L series2 OVERHEATING!!!!?????
ok well I just replaced the tstat and finally decided to start and run it to top off coolant level. It seemed as tho it heated up rather fast maybe running 5min or 10min ?
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
#3
06-04-2018, 11:03 PM
i tried starting it with the cap off at the tstat but it's like the water grows and comes out there then goes back down then comes up and out so I figured I couldn't run engine with it off there?? There is a alloy radiator in it and a cap on top left corner would I see flow there??
#4
06-05-2018, 09:27 AM
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As mentioned above, your cooling system has a large bubble of air trapped somewhere. Air expands quicker with rising temperatures causing the fluctuating level you're seeing.
Try leaving the highest cap off while the engine warms, adding more coolant as there's room for it. If you still have an overheating problem you may have a faulty thermostat even though it's new. It wouldn't be the first new part faulty out of the box that caught someone by surprise.
(';')
Try leaving the highest cap off while the engine warms, adding more coolant as there's room for it. If you still have an overheating problem you may have a faulty thermostat even though it's new. It wouldn't be the first new part faulty out of the box that caught someone by surprise.
(';')
#5
06-06-2018, 02:46 AM
As mentioned above, your cooling system has a large bubble of air trapped somewhere. Air expands quicker with rising temperatures causing the fluctuating level you're seeing.
Try leaving the highest cap off while the engine warms, adding more coolant as there's room for it. If you still have an overheating problem you may have a faulty thermostat even though it's new. It wouldn't be the first new part faulty out of the box that caught someone by surprise.
(';')
Try leaving the highest cap off while the engine warms, adding more coolant as there's room for it. If you still have an overheating problem you may have a faulty thermostat even though it's new. It wouldn't be the first new part faulty out of the box that caught someone by surprise.
(';')
Im going to drain fluid out somewhere so I can refill. I just refilled it from what ran out changing the tstat which wasn't but maybe half a gallon so maybe it wasn't enough.
Will see how it goes will let ya know
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LnrB (06-06-2018)
#6
06-15-2018, 12:07 PM
Update
Ok so I let about 2gal out of the rad jacked up right front wheel in case it helps chase air to the fill cap.
Started car and filled. The car still pegged gauge before I even had the water full yes I was filling very slow after a bout a gallon I seen some steam come out of the fill while I was adding coolant. I assumed that meant the tstat opened but there was not any noticeable flow at that fill spot but it's not right at tstat so I took the cap off of the radiator itself and started car. I did not see water spraying out the veins of the radiator.
Cap is on left side top of aluminum rad.
I'm guessing this means my water pump is bad??????
Plz help I don't want to spend 200$ on a water pump if it's not the problem.
Thanks.
Started car and filled. The car still pegged gauge before I even had the water full yes I was filling very slow after a bout a gallon I seen some steam come out of the fill while I was adding coolant. I assumed that meant the tstat opened but there was not any noticeable flow at that fill spot but it's not right at tstat so I took the cap off of the radiator itself and started car. I did not see water spraying out the veins of the radiator.
Cap is on left side top of aluminum rad.
I'm guessing this means my water pump is bad??????
Plz help I don't want to spend 200$ on a water pump if it's not the problem.
Thanks.
#7
06-15-2018, 02:46 PM
Senior Member
ok well I just replaced the tstat and finally decided to start and run it to top off coolant level. It seemed as tho it heated up rather fast maybe running 5min or 10min ?
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
old one.
Walter
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#8
06-15-2018, 04:41 PM
I should see water flowing thru those cores right?
how does a water pump just not move water? It don't leak but it has sat for a long long time. PO said it started running hot so he sold it so idk.
#10
06-15-2018, 06:29 PM
My 2 cents: Process of elimination.
Since you are not sure about the T'stat, why don't you remove it from the system and see if you have coolant flow. If, without the t'stat you have flow through the system, then re-install or replace the t'stat and go from there.
1. Remove t'stat and fill engine block (with water in this case).
2. Re-install T'stat housing (no t'stat) and fill the rest of the system slowly with the engine running at idle.
You may not see water flowing through the expansion tank but you stated that there was a cap on the radiator.
If the pump is good you should see flow at that point.
You can add water at the t'stat housing cap until it flows out of the radiator cap opening.
That will push the air out of the system.
After confirming that every thing works as it should, drain out the water and repeat the process using 50/50 coolant.
Since you are not sure about the T'stat, why don't you remove it from the system and see if you have coolant flow. If, without the t'stat you have flow through the system, then re-install or replace the t'stat and go from there.
1. Remove t'stat and fill engine block (with water in this case).
2. Re-install T'stat housing (no t'stat) and fill the rest of the system slowly with the engine running at idle.
You may not see water flowing through the expansion tank but you stated that there was a cap on the radiator.
If the pump is good you should see flow at that point.
You can add water at the t'stat housing cap until it flows out of the radiator cap opening.
That will push the air out of the system.
After confirming that every thing works as it should, drain out the water and repeat the process using 50/50 coolant.
#11
06-15-2018, 08:23 PM
My 2 cents: Process of elimination.
Since you are not sure about the T'stat, why don't you remove it from the system and see if you have coolant flow. If, without the t'stat you have flow through the system, then re-install or replace the t'stat and go from there.
1. Remove t'stat and fill engine block (with water in this case).
2. Re-install T'stat housing (no t'stat) and fill the rest of the system slowly with the engine running at idle.
You may not see water flowing through the expansion tank but you stated that there was a cap on the radiator.
If the pump is good you should see flow at that point.
You can add water at the t'stat housing cap until it flows out of the radiator cap opening.
That will push the air out of the system.
After confirming that every thing works as it should, drain out the water and repeat the process using 50/50 coolant.
Since you are not sure about the T'stat, why don't you remove it from the system and see if you have coolant flow. If, without the t'stat you have flow through the system, then re-install or replace the t'stat and go from there.
1. Remove t'stat and fill engine block (with water in this case).
2. Re-install T'stat housing (no t'stat) and fill the rest of the system slowly with the engine running at idle.
You may not see water flowing through the expansion tank but you stated that there was a cap on the radiator.
If the pump is good you should see flow at that point.
You can add water at the t'stat housing cap until it flows out of the radiator cap opening.
That will push the air out of the system.
After confirming that every thing works as it should, drain out the water and repeat the process using 50/50 coolant.
Gonna go pull tstat and reassemble
#12
06-15-2018, 09:35 PM
been running 7min is just in center of normal on gauge.
Would have been pegged by now with tstat in.
Ran out of gas so testing will have to wait til tomorrow lmao.
can I run without a tstat? Or do I have to get another put in?
man I'm glad it's simple
thanks for the 💡
i still couldn't see flow in radiator when I took cap off it was full ?
#13
06-16-2018, 12:17 AM
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06-16-2018, 12:45 AM
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#15
06-16-2018, 11:32 AM
Update #2
ok so I decided to take to emissions this morning.
Temp stayed mid normal. Rainy cool 75 deg day.
Got to emissions place was a line to wait. After about 5min or so gauge climbed up almost pegging so I had to keep shutting car off while waiting.
Failed emissions hydrocarbons smh currently at emiss shop.
There is no tstat in it now. I'm thinking about getting electric fans to mount to the radiator??? The clutch fan moved about 1/4 turn maybe more when ya flick it.
It needs some things tinkered with but ran nice other than very high idle and a miss when sitting in drive.
At any rate I need to know where to go now. I reallly thought it was a flow problem like pump bad but it stayed cool on a 15mile drive and idling in the yard so I thought bad stat.
The shroud isn't tight against bottom of rad was thinking that could cause it?
idk just thinking out loud
thx for the help u guys.
Temp stayed mid normal. Rainy cool 75 deg day.
Got to emissions place was a line to wait. After about 5min or so gauge climbed up almost pegging so I had to keep shutting car off while waiting.
Failed emissions hydrocarbons smh currently at emiss shop.
There is no tstat in it now. I'm thinking about getting electric fans to mount to the radiator??? The clutch fan moved about 1/4 turn maybe more when ya flick it.
It needs some things tinkered with but ran nice other than very high idle and a miss when sitting in drive.
At any rate I need to know where to go now. I reallly thought it was a flow problem like pump bad but it stayed cool on a 15mile drive and idling in the yard so I thought bad stat.
The shroud isn't tight against bottom of rad was thinking that could cause it?
idk just thinking out loud
thx for the help u guys.
#16
06-16-2018, 12:40 PM
If it stayed cool on the 15 mile drive but overheated while stopped and at idle, the problem could be insufficient air flow or the water pump not circulating the coolant properly at idle speed.
So I would be looking at the fan, water pump or clogged cooling fins on the radiator
Try this: put a high speed fan in front of the car, directing the air flow through the radiator and with the hood closed, leave the car running at idle and see what happens to the engine temp.
So I would be looking at the fan, water pump or clogged cooling fins on the radiator
Try this: put a high speed fan in front of the car, directing the air flow through the radiator and with the hood closed, leave the car running at idle and see what happens to the engine temp.
#17
06-16-2018, 01:58 PM
Veteran Member
#18
06-16-2018, 04:00 PM
Senior Member
ok well I just replaced the tstat and finally decided to start and run it to top off coolant level. It seemed as tho it heated up rather fast maybe running 5min or 10min ?
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
the gauge in dash was almost pegged to H so I shut off car. No I didn't notice what it was when I started.
I tried to move the fan and it spun rather easily not like free spinning but it sure wasn't hard to move does that mean the clutch fan is bad?? Would this cause the heat up so fast?? It didn't boil over or anything car dieseled a little but it's been sitting for years so I figure carbs need adjusted and plugs n wires wouldn't hurt. Main issue now is why it seems to be running so hot.
I didn't see any leak like under water pump like it was leaking There is a leak at the small hose elbow that goes over to carbs from water outlet I need to check clamps on but I'm not sure if I just replace the clutch fan or???
since I'm asking what is the trick to get the plastic elbow back in the master cylinder when u have a new seal?????? I've tried everything except cutting the hole bigger and I'm nearly there lol.
thanks
bill in az
if it opens and closes.
They sell special thermostats called fail safe, if the engine heats up too
much the stat will stay open and you will not ruin the engine.
walter
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Landdfall (12-21-2019)
#19
06-16-2018, 11:30 PM
#20
06-16-2018, 11:36 PM
I don't think the clutch fan is engaging like it's spose to but I'm not sure. Just idk don't sound right when car running.
I'm really leaning towards getting a pair of 10" electric fans and take metal fan and clutch off. They're made with a nice shroud tightly around em and that has to cool better than fan on itwith gaps n space at bottom of shroud ya know?