When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks Greg, that is good news. You think the shorter length allows the circulating fuel in the inventory rails to pull the vapor lock out ?
I think so and there is w lowe volume of vapour in the injector tubes to clear. My car would only start after a hot stop (say 30 mins in a car park) with the throttle floored. The ONLY change I made was to shorten the flexibles (NB mount the injectors to the manifold and THEN the rail to the injectors). Now the car starts immediately when hot, just as it does when cold.
still no success. this is the third try with the old injectors. The second try got 9 out of 12 working. I had the injector rails upside on top of the engine with the injectors pointing up. pushed the injectors only over the first barb and hooked the pressure regulator up the wrong way, turned on pump and you guessed it one injector got launched, me drenched in fuel and it took me an hour to find the escapee back. Then after correcting my mistakes all seemed ok and not leaking. connected the injectors to the loom ,"started"the car and three of the injectors started leaking after a couple of revolutions.
took those three apart again and more cleaning . try again and still one of them leaking after the first pulse. something must be still lodged in there. some more work and testing to do.
I am going to turn the injectors with the connector pointing outwards and lay the injector loom against the manifold. lots of threaded holes that held the old injector rails in that can be repurposed holding the wires neatly in place. To much stuff going on in the valley to easily troubleshoot.
Last edited by Joeblack5; Oct 13, 2025 at 06:54 AM.
had some problems with uploading files, likely due to the unorganized setup in my phone. anyhow these brand injectors the fuel filters had tiny plastic baskets. a m4 screw would thread into them with 4 or 5 turns and then a little tap on the injectors would release them. the injector rails modification . after a hydraulic specialty shop told me that this was 1/4 bssp thread it turned out to me m14x1.5. .I did not like extra length and forces on injector rails and decided to cut the nuts of.. yeah you read that right. a 5/16 300psi hose fits nice over the remaining stub.
had some problems with uploading files, likely due to the unorganized setup in my phone. anyhow these brand injectors the fuel filters had tiny plastic baskets. a m4 screw would thread into them with 4 or 5 turns and then a little tap on the injectors would release them. the injector rails modification . after a hydraulic specialty shop told me that this was 1/4 bssp thread it turned out to me m14x1.5. .I did not like extra length and forces on injector rails and decided to cut the nuts of.. yeah you read that right. a 5/16 300psi hose fits nice over the remaining stub.
could not get this injector to seal. begins ok but after a couple of starter revolution fuel keeps pouring out. so ordered 3 new ones and will see how it pans out
the injectors came in and all seemed fine
then after a couple of tries one of the other 9 old ones started leaking again. made a nice video of them squirting in the air but there does not seem to be an easy way to upload it. have to ask the kids if they can put on YouTube.
found out that this is the same injector used in some Saab 99 models. I will try to make a bit better pulser for these injectors so that it becomes a real test rig..
well, it ran, for a very short time but before that a lot of things got done.
first I build an injector pulser that can vary frequency (rpm ) and duration. with an oscilloscope I was able to see the current rise and opening of the injector. let the three injectors run at 6000 rpm for half hour hoping that any dirt inside would wear out.
then I hooked up the fuel.pressure TEE and 100 psi gauge . all is good there a nice 29psi.
bought new fuel and refused the whole system till the fuel return looked pretty clear
another spray test , and still some leakage. moved those to the front where they are easy to replace with the bend fuel lines.
mounted all injectors and came to the conclusion that this fuel rail being bigger interfered with throttle cable bracket and throttle switch.
cut all injector lines 3/8 " ,still not enough. So I unbolted the throttle disc assembly and raised it a 1/4" . that was just enough. remounted.
so the cold start injectors are not hooked up yet.
first crank , no start, no spark.. some fiddling with the power wires and yes it sparks.
what can I say, it fired up , ran a bit rough and then smoothed out. I stopped the engine because it does not have coolant and the front two injectors were not hooked up yet. tomorrow is another day
success. next two days is rain with a lot of wind and I really wanted to move this car from outside under trees to inside and dry so that I can take a better look at the rust during the winter.
put the front two injectors in and filled the radiator with plain water to see if it was leaking out. for whatever reason the radiator fan comes on as soon as the car is on contact, I assume the AC is on ? I was in a hurry and did not look very long for the relay.. tested fuel pressure drop after shutting pump of. At least several seconds, should have checked the return line if it leaks from there or is it thru one or more injectors.
I am still powering the fuel.pump with a separate battery. this pump has occasional start up issues. I tap it with a screw driver and then it is ok.
anyhow. I felt somewhat confident and started and it came to life . a lot of white smoke and the driver bank had an uneven exhaust. oh well, last sparkplug disconnected.. yep..in a hurry. oil pressure was good, no strange noises . idle was high, I had the airfilters off and the air was rushing in thru the bypass valve. if I blocked that then idle went down to 6 or 7 hundred. stopped engine and added more water. started again and no start. my brand new fuel pressure gauge , cheap, showed 30psi.. pump was running but different sound.. spark yes.. well it turned out the fuel pick up hose in my jerrycan was above the fuel level and the pressure gauge had a loose needle and got stuck on the last reading . hurry ,hurry. while I did some more tests with the fuel.pressure I suddenly remembered that i had not stuck the fuel return hose back in the Jerry can.. indeed 1/2 gallong in the trunk...a bit of stress I tell you.
fixed the issue at hand and indeed pump sounded normal and and pressure went up to 40 psi. yep the needle got stuck there. either way it fired up and became nice and warm, idle bypass valve closed and it ran an even 700 rpm.
time for a drive.. for whatever reason the oil pressure gauge is zero but the oil pressure light went out immediately... the oil light switch seeps some oil . connector of oil pressure sensor was on. tapped on the sender. no difference. I assumed Lucas. ah no power steering, after filling ok. will see where the leak is...
ok the drive.. first gear is noisy a bit of whine ,second and third good, braking ok, heating / defrost fan not working but I can hear some motors in the dash. forgot the wipers but since I took that motor loose to investigate some rust it probably better I did not.
drove the car home 6 miles. temp normal. tach works. odo started working after a bit.
driveline has vibration, I assume the drive shaft. front shock absorber clunking when driving thru potholes. indeed the rubber bushings are missing in the shock towers. battery charges.
door windows work although very slow. lights do not work.. blinkers stalk is loose...hood does not lock on both sides.
altogether I am pretty darn happy.
showed the car to my wife. she does not flinch when I tell her that I want to buy another project car. Got to love her for that.
thanks Greg, I was hoping that someone would make plastic replacement tanks to avoid rusting ever again.
time do do rust repair at the floor pans and doors. the rear seat back rear needs to be redone. In my xjs I drilled 1-1/2" holes under the backseat to get a good picture of the rust around the rear jack points and rear axle radius arms.. hope for the best.
Great idea for the box space undr the rear seats. I did them on my XJS in 2010; so far so good...
The coupés are the most wanted cars at the moment in the UK and Europe. A good project from all points of view.
Last edited by Greg in France; Oct 30, 2025 at 11:56 AM.