XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

1984 XJ6.0

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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 06:57 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by scottlohan
I just bought my first…1986, same color. What winch did you use? I was planning the same setup to get the car myself but then had to travel so had to pay someone.

I was concerned with manual boat winch i already had pulling 4,000lbs.

Keep us updated!

i am excited to go start working on mine next weekend.
Scott, sharp looking S3! These are such sinister looking cars in dark colors.

I used a Harbor Freight manual winch that I welded onto a 2" hitch. It's a bit tedious to use as you crank it by hand, but I only use it once every few years and there is no battery to go flat, no electric winch to maintain, etc. It was only used to get the car on the dolly, where the car was secured with the provided straps.

 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:10 PM
  #82  
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I am about ready to begin reassembly of the rear axle assembly. This quick differential refurbishment quickly turned into an overhaul of everything - hubs, half shafts, stub axles. Nothing really had any functional issues (other than the differential obviously) but I couldn't stand to put greasy components back in the car with unknown service history.

That being said, does anyone have part numbers for Dana 44 carrier shims and the crush collar?

Upside is that I have been filming nearly every detail and will be putting together a nice video documenting the entire process.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 02:53 PM
  #83  
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DTS near Detroit have everything you will need for the DANA 44 and will know what you need.
https://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

 
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Old Feb 22, 2024 | 02:53 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by LT1 jaguar
I'm not an expert, but I'll pass along what I think I've learned about this swap.

I am going to use the Auburn 546085 carrier you mention above. I will include an email from Auburn and a couple of pictures that caused me to write them. I haven't taken the old bearings off the Jag carrier yet to make that measurement (5.060"), but there's no reason not to believe what they say. That being said, as I mention below, using an aftermarket carrier with Jaguar 2.88 gears might cause an issue. I'll have to keep that in mind when I measure the two carriers.

As I was researching this gear/carrier swap I came across a site (a forum I think) that had a handful of posts concerning the Jag 2.88 gears specifically and putting them on an aftermarket carrier (any brand). From what I remember, the post suggested the 2.88/Jag carrier combination is a rather special animal. I got the idea the off-set of the ring gear flange on the carrier is not in any common Dana position and the 2.88 ring gear is not a common Dana thickness. I think they said this is because Dana does not offer a 2.88 ratio in their standard lineup. I had not thought about this match-up before, but I would scour the inter-web to make sense of this possibility if this was the direction I chose.

Another "what the he**" that might crop up is the way the pinion is preloaded. Some use a crush sleeve like my original 2.88's. Some use shims behind the outer bearing, this is how the new Motive pinion is. I got conflicting opinions as to where the shims would go to adjust the pinion "checking distance", the Jag had them behind the inner bearing race (cup).

Auburn email:
[David,The bearing hub length on the opposite side of the ring gear is .110” shorter than the Dana unit, so that is most of the height difference you are seeing. Bearing shoulder to bearing shoulder on the Auburn unit is exactly the same as a Dana produced unit, which is 5.060”.
We have had many people use this differential in the Jag axle housing over the years without any issues. Just need the correct bearings, which are 25590 & 25523.

Best regards,
Jamie

[b]James Forrest
Senior Product Engineer]





Here is a website giving some first hand information and the bearing numbers to use. https://dazecars.com/dazed/Diff.html
Dave
Dave, I wanted to thank you for this post and also post some of my own experience. I compared the aftermarket carrier to the OEM Jag open carrier and found that the ring gear mounting flange was significantly offset towards the center of the housing compared to the Auburn 546085 limited slip. My diff builder, who has been very helpful and excited about the project, pointed out that the OEM 2.88 gear set isn't compatible with the Auburn 546085 for the aforementioned reason - additionally, the OEM 2.88 ring gear bolts (7/16) are too big to pass through the ring gear mounting holes on the Auburn carrier. Bit of a shame since I bought used 2.88 gears from DTS in Detroit to replace my trashed original 2.88s, but live and learn. I should be able to post them for sale for someone's restoration project.

We spoke with one of the engineers at Auburn regarding the issue, and found that there are actually multiple carrier breaks - 3.92 and up, 3.73 and down (except for 2.88), and a nonexistent carrier that would theoretically be compatible with the 2.88. He did mention that Auburn was investigating the possibility of producing such a carrier, but had no ECD of that project. I don't blame them since anyone wanting to increase traction by installing a limited slip or "Posi" unit will also want to upgrade ratios to something more performance oriented.

Anyhow, that's a long way of saying that I bit the bullet and just bought a 3.54 gearset from another local specialist here in WNY, Denny's Driveshaft.

I hope that this helps folks that are doing this swap in the future. Here is another link I found very helpful explaining the issue.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post2558700
Originally Posted by Mustsed
1.generation IRS internals because i did a few irs swaps into other cars and mostly used the gen.1 irs because of the availability even over here and ease of installation! 2 of the swaps (one is my own 67 Mustang) i did the outboard brake version by mixing the center section from a 1.gen with brakes from a 2.gen. The only problem was the control arm inner bushings wich i did from a kind of delrin.

The stock Spicer Jaguar diff carrier has not 2 but 3 breakdowns for different ratios.

Mustsed

NOTE 04/09/10 It was recently brought to my attention by Sedat Yalcin that the above information only applies to Dana 44 carriers. If you are using the original Jaguar carrier you need to be aware of three different carriers. The 2.88:1 carrier will only work with 2.88:1 ring and pinion. If you have a 2.88:1 carrier and want a lower ratio you must change the carrier or buy a custom "THICK" gear. After getting this information I confirmed it by contacting Mike at CWI and he added that Jaguar made there break between low and midrange ratio at 3.54:1 and 3.76:1. The important thing to keep in mind when deciding weather you need the parts set up for high or low ratios (excluding the 2.88:1) is not weather the carrier is Jaguar or Dana 44 but weather the ring and pinion are Jaguar or Dana 44. If the ring and pinion is Jaguar, regardless of weather the carrier is Jaguar or Dana the break in ratios is between 3.54:1 and 3.76:1. But in reverse if the ring and pinion is Dana, regardless of weather the carrier is Jaguar or Dana the break in ratios is between 3.73:1 and 3.92:1.

Taken from the IRS forum run by Daze Scovel. I took this part because i am Sedat Yalçın who brought this up.

https://irsforum.boardhost.com
TLDR: You can't use 2.88s with aftermarket carriers. Just swap gears.

Oh, and more good news - I discovered cracks in both aluminum hub housings in the typical spot and had to have them welded up. Isn't this hobby fun? Time for a cold refreshing beverage...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2024 | 07:22 AM
  #85  
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Getting apart the IRS was dirty, tough work. This chassis is remarkably rust free but it seems the rear end was worked on at some point since I found evidence of a rebuild in a few spots. Driver's side hub carrier assembly missing the bronze phosphor spacer ring (huge endplay), the words "85 XJ6" written in paint pen on that same carrier (this chassis is an '84), and some missing tie wire.

I spent the better part of a few weeks trying to get the hubs out of the carriers. My person 12 ton press and a friend's 20 ton press were defeated even with the use of a torch to melt the loctite on the splines; it took a 50 ton press at a heavy truck shop to get it loose. Unfortunately the end of that hub was damaged beyond repair, but Dave @ EverydayXJ saved the day with a spare.





Another week was spent beating/pressing off races and bearings and cleaning. Both my carriers exhibited the cracks that seem to be present as a result of the casting process.





I dropped those off for welding and reinforcing, and while I was waiting busied myself with other items.

Originally I wanted to reuse my 2.88 ring and pinion since the long gears were great on the highway and loaded the engine nicely, which helped spool the turbo. Since the original 2.88s were destroyed when the open diff let go, I purchased a used set of Jag 2.88s from DTS in Detroit. Unfortunately, I found out that these gears are not compatible with the Auburn 546085 19 spline Posi limited slip. They physically bolt up to the differential carrier, but the flange is too close to the pinion and will not allow the carrier to be mounted.

I have to give credit to Bill at Rear End Specialists, who worked with me to find a solution. He was patient and welcomed the challenge as he had not done a gear and carrier swap in a Jaguar Dana 44 before. I recommend his services.

https://www.rearendspecialists.com/

A well known shop local to me, Denny's Driveshaft, came through with a new set of Dana 3.54 gears and the required 26 spline pinion yoke. They are located 10 minutes away from my axle builder, so no shipping was required, and Bill picked up the parts from Denny's for me. Big thanks to both shops for helping me out.

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/index.html

Once I got the diff back, I started the process of building it up. I rebuilt the output shaft assemblies with new seals and installed the rotors/calipers.







The diff cover got cleaned up with fresh paint. I noticed that the breather vent had some mangled threads, so I welded in a stainless 1/8" NPT elbow for the vent to mount to.



I designed a set of conical differential to cage mounting sleeves. My OEM bolts on top of the cage were tight, but I figured this was an easy way to ensure the diff wouldn't come loose due to the lack of thread engagement with the OEM bolts.



1/2"-13 threaded studs were trimmed to size, installed with blue thread locker, and self locking nuts installed on top of the new spacers to ensure alignment.









Winter is wrapping up here in Buffalo, so I got my other fun car out of storage and ready for the warm season. The summer is the first where my son is old enough (2) to face forward, which makes it much easier to load him into his seat. He and my daughter cannot get enough of "Blue Car".





Next up: Axle carrier rebuild, full u-joint replacement, fulcrum shimming.



 

Last edited by nsogiba; Mar 12, 2024 at 07:27 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2024 | 10:36 AM
  #86  
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Great job!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2024 | 11:23 AM
  #87  
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I *Highly* approve of that Jeep's parking space!
You need to save at least one of these pictures and show it to her when she's about 13, feeling useless and a bit down. She'll always remember parking Her Jeep in Dad's garage while you worked on your beloved Jag.
You should also let her bring you tools according to her ability if she wants to.
You might not realize it, but yer making memories here!
I can tell you how I know that.....
(';')
 
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Old Mar 12, 2024 | 12:01 PM
  #88  
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Also VERY important to use high strength Loctite on the securing bolts for the lower wishbone inner fulcrums bolted to the diff at the side low down, as in this pic of yours:


The rear end is MILES better handling with diff secured as you have and with these castings fixed solidly. Plus another chance for LnR to see her car!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2024 | 12:05 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Also VERY important to use high strength Loctite on the securing bolts for the lower wishbone inner fulcrums bolted to the diff at the side low down, as in this pic of yours:

The rear end is MILES better handling with diff secured as you have and with these castings fixed solidly. Plus another chance for LnR to see her car!
Yes, I recall reading reports of the wishbone bolts loosening. I ended up removing them after that photo was taken, and temporarily hanging the IRS cage/Diff in the car (I cheated and used the lift). Much easier to access and check for shim thickness. I cleaned all 4 wishbone bolts and holes, applied blue loctite, and also safety wired each pair of bolts to themselves.
 
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Old May 14, 2024 | 06:40 AM
  #90  
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I am not much of a car show person as I prefer to be around cars when they're in motion, but my family enjoys these events so I decided to compromise:

 
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