Hey guys
I'm about to replace the leaking valve gasket in my car. I'm assuming it is pretty straightforward but I'm thinking it would be best to ask here first before I go at it as I've never done it before. Any tips, brands or materials that would be useful or work best? I'm going to replace both of them while I'm at it. Going to buy the parts tomorrow and do the work this weekend. Thanks for any help
Cheers

 

May I assume you are replacing one or both of the cam cover gaskets ? If you are, then it would be helpful to also replace the copper washers under the securing nuts, (chrome-plated dome nuts). If you can't get any, you can anneal the old ones by heating each one to cherry red heat, then dropping in a bucket of water. They should then squash up OK without too much torque. Copper annealing is the complete opposite of steel, BTW.

Question I have is - is it the gasket leaking ? Reason I ask is there are two half-moon rubber fillers at the back of the cam boxes, to fill the gap left when the camshaft bearing seatings were line-bored on the head. If these have hardened-up, they could be leaking. You might also care to take out and clean the oil trap capsule in the breather assembly at the front of the head. It's inside the dome-capped rubber "thingy" secured by a Jubilee clip. A pipe runs from it to the inlet manifold.

This job is one of the easiest on the engine. There are plenty of hard ones, of course !

 

Thanks for the tips. It's definitely one of the gaskets and yes I'm doing both anyway. I just got the parts for much less than I thought. My question is what would this leak cause? What other issues come from it; as I don't know how long it's been left like this while the car has been driven?
I will check the copper washers as well. Thanks so much for these tips I will check these things off as I go along.

 

You got me thinking about the rubber fillers also leaking but i cant find them. Can you be more specific? Sorry I am very new to working on my own car.
Cheers

 

I barely remember removing one cam cover to see if the cam was moving when the engine was cranked. At the rear of the gasket surface of the head there is a half moon depression in the alloy. it is filled with rubberoid plugs to present an even surface for the gasket and cover to fi together.

Someone mentioned this was manufacturing thing to allow the align bore tool to access the cam saddles. So, sight away from the rear bearing saddle to the gasket surface. It may be covered in goop of some kind and not readiy apparent.

Lay a straight edge along the gasket surfaces of the cam covers. You may find the edges around the bolt holes raised. Caused by over zealous tightening. I am not sure if a gentle tapping will flatten them with no cracking issue or whether some careful filing might be best. I've done both on tin and alloy covers, but never a Jag cam cover.

Tis a mess caused by force and more force makes it worse!!

Carl

 

I did this job today and I am finished. I used permatex ultra blue sensor safe silicone for it. I let it sit outside with the hood up for an hr and a half then tightened everything. How long until I can drive the car? The back of the silicone has it will "fully cure in 24 hrs". Should I really wait that long to start her up?
Cheers

 

Also, when looking for leaks under the front of the car after driving it this morning I noticed a lot of fumes coming out around the exhaust (?) in the middle of the car, is this normal?

 

NO!!!

Oil leaks on to the manifold and smokes like h...

Or the gaskets between the manifold and downpipe are blown and what you see is leaking exhaust.

if the latter, you should hear some exhaust noise there.

Carl

 

You are aware I am not talking about the engine area, but under the car around the middle?
I ended up driving it about 8 miles from my shop to house last night 2 or 3 hrs after replacing gaskets, haven't driven it since. No oil on the drive this morning. Was going to wait the full 24 to start again, around 330 today.
Thanks for the help
Cheers

 

I'd inspect the underbody exhaust pipes for leaks.

However, smoke from the engine bay can sometimes migrate towards the center of the car. The engine fan blows it rearward. Of course, if the hood it open any smoke usually just rises up and out

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks for the tips. This isn't smoke it is just fumes like when it's hot and you look at concrete in the distance.
I just checked under the car again and there is a bit of a light puddle but I'm thinking this is normal excess stuff from the change. Will take it for a drive this afternoon.
Cheers

 

There is an exhaust joint in the centre of the car at the front of the 'Y' pipe that can work loose. It happened to me in Bradford of all places and late on a Saturday, but is easily tightened up. The two pipes to be joined are splayed out and there is a large iron "olive that they clamp onto using three long bolts. You should hear some exhaust blowing; do you ?

 

Hey Fraser, thanks a lot for your post. The exhaust system is totally foreign to me and it looks like it will be my next excursion with this vehicle. I took the car out for a short drive (maybe 5 miles) and it is driving so smooth; it's really riding great. It is dark out here but when I got home I took a look under the car and didn't see as much fuming as I did yesterday. This by no means makes me feel "safe" about this issue, but I don't have a good jack at the house to take a look at the pipes, it will have to wait until tomorrow when I can jack it up at the shop on my break. I'm just very grateful I have a tip on what to look for when I do.
Also, I think driving the car home (no matter how short the distance) so soon after replacing valve gaskets was not good. I am seeing leaks on the drive that aren't normal for newly replaced gaskets. I might have to do it again this weekend. I just hope it's ok to drive until then as I take the car to work everyday.
Cheers

 

I can hear exhaust and there is definitely a problem but its not what you pointed out. Anything else I can be looking for? Also the past 3 mornings the car has not started. I have to hit the gas to the floor to get a start. Once i start it and drive to work, starts up and runs fine throughout the day. Its been 50-55 in the morning and around 80 degrees out in the afternoon here maybe its the cold? Could it be the vacuum hoses? I hate turning the key and hearing the click for the first few attempts. Bad for engine?
Cheers

 

The clicks are either the starter relay or the starter solenoid. Possibly, even the neutral start switch on the trans. Include the wires and connectors for these. Jaguar mantra. Clean tighten and lube the electric connections.

The fumes might just be the resident oil from the leaking covers that hasn't completely cooked off yet. In olden days, I'd counsel an engine bath. Not anymore. 'Water and electronics are not good companions!!

Hopefully, you got the covers flat before replacing them and they are not leaking again.