I'm told my '85 XJ6 needs a new RF wheel bearing. Sounds simple enough, but I figured I should check and see if there are any Jaguar gotchas I should know about...

Any particular brand or vendor I should look for, or avoid? It seems like Beck-Arnley is the most common brand. I imagine they're Chinese, but it seems near impossible to avoid that nowadays.

Thanks to all for the scads of help I have received and will receive from this forum.

-mB

 

I just did mine a couple weeks ago. Simple! you honestly don't even need to pack them cause there is a grease zerk to fill it up when your all put back together. I packed em anyway, cause I like getting all greasy(not). used the same brand, but noone has the oil seal on hand, so you'll have to get that ordered and wait till it comes to do the job. took all of about 35 minutes to do both sides.

 

When you take the calipers off and remove the hubs be aware of part #21 in this diagram....


Hub and Stub Axle Carrier-With Front Rotor - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Heritage Parts UK


It'll fall to the ground and you'll wonder where it came from.

It takes up the tiny space between the spindle and the steering arm. If you don't reinstall the steering arm will be under a slight amount of strain (probably not important....but?) and your steering wheel will be off center as the toe setting will be changed.

If you don't have this little shim it means that someone before you lost it. Or couldn't figure out where it went and tossed it over the hedge

Cheers
DD

 

I didnt have to do all that, but I did forget to mention the brake caliper has to be broke apart and refilled then bled.

 

Ahhh. That explains how you did it so fast.

Where did you find new seals for the caliper halves? Or did you use the old ones?

Cheers
DD

 

They are just O-rings. I have a big kit.

 

Aha, that Zerk and whether or how to use it. I was instructed early on as to how to properly service front wheel bearings. Not on jaguar, but on domestic critters with drum brakes. I've used the same technique on newer domestic critters with disc brakes. Clean all. don't spin a dry bearing. Pack each bearing, by had or with a gadget. Do not fill the space between the bearings with grease. No useful purpose and a waste of grease. Marfak, long fiber at the time. Now, any top brand disc rated lube is fine. Don't reuse the seals.


As for our cars, review Elinor and company's posts. Good stuff there. Includes Doug's offerings.


Carl

 

I totally agree. I just give 2 cents and sometimes they arent worth the investment.

 

Sorry to be the Wicked Fairy at the Ball, but a common failing on the front wheel bearings of high mileage cars is wear on the stub axle where the bearing inner tends to chatter and move on the stub axle. The design is not very good, and the lower arc of the stub axle wears out. New bearings then cannot be adjusted correctly.

So my message is to at least inspect the stub axle. If a lip can be felt, then the stub axle has worn.

The final piece of bad news is that these stub axles are NLA at the moment. I replaced mine in the 80s due to wear, but the Series 3 was well supported then.

 

Mine was fine, but if anyone has the specs on them, maybe you can post them so a machinist can make them for those that need them.

 

On the SNG Barratt website, they ask you to contact them regarding this part. Maybe they are having a batch produced.

 

Check Elinor's posts on stub axles. She and hubby struggled with a pair of machined axles. but, solved the issue. A tiny ridge just enough to prevent the race from seating. a bit of emery cloth polishing fixed it. AKA "fine tuning" not done by the machinist.


The idea of the inner race moving on the stub still perplexes me?


Carl

 

Sorry, maybe I didn't explain it properly. I meant the inner track part of the outer bearing ! The inner bearing inner track is a press fit, but this can't be done for the outer bearing, so it is a light push, and it is this that over time causes all the trouble.

Of course when we were all on cross-ply tyres of narrow section, the bearings lasted. I suppose because cornering forces were lower as the cars just broke away when the tyres got too stressed.