Any tips on removing gas tanks?
#1
#2
See http://www.justanswer.com/car/1vc15-...nk-87-xj6.html for a clear guide.
In series 2 the fuel pipes are under the wheel arch. Not sure about the series 1. It may help to add your jag to your signature or title.
Hope that helps.
In series 2 the fuel pipes are under the wheel arch. Not sure about the series 1. It may help to add your jag to your signature or title.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by anjum; 03-04-2015 at 11:37 AM.
#3
#4
There is a bolt on the side of the tank that can be accessed from the trunk/boot.
There is a rod with a 9/16 nut accessed from the outside bottom of the tank area.
There are two more side bolts with shims, both are difficult to access with the muffler in place. You should drop the muffler if possible. It can be done with the with the muffler in place but you have to drop the heat shield to get to one of the bolts. You can get to the last and rear most bolt by using a 1/4 ratchet with a swivel through the tail pipe opening.
The neck / filler door need to come off so the tank can slide rearward and down. On later cars they added sound deadening maternal to the side of the tank with makes it a tight fit. Remove the 4 screws and work it up.
There is a rod with a 9/16 nut accessed from the outside bottom of the tank area.
There are two more side bolts with shims, both are difficult to access with the muffler in place. You should drop the muffler if possible. It can be done with the with the muffler in place but you have to drop the heat shield to get to one of the bolts. You can get to the last and rear most bolt by using a 1/4 ratchet with a swivel through the tail pipe opening.
The neck / filler door need to come off so the tank can slide rearward and down. On later cars they added sound deadening maternal to the side of the tank with makes it a tight fit. Remove the 4 screws and work it up.
Last edited by icsamerica; 03-04-2015 at 02:21 PM.
#6
Soak filler neck area with rust remover
After all is disconnected that holds the tank(s) in place, you have to deal with the filler neck and filler cap(s).
There are a tight fit and after many years the "metals try to join together" and you should apply your favorite Rust Remover spray many times and
let it sit and do it's job... Then by twisting and turning the already loosened (screws removed and the pin) cap twist back and forth until the tanks drops downward.
It can be a horrible job getting them... be sure to use new gaskets where appropriate, fuel senders etc... change all the hoses that attach to the tank and to the filler cap... that is really important as they are now decades old, hard and brittle.
Think how good you will feel when it is all done and working! Have done this several times now and am getting ready to change my perfectly good (new)
S1 tanks for used S3 tanks to gain their returns line for the pending fuel injection upgrade from a carbed V8
There are a tight fit and after many years the "metals try to join together" and you should apply your favorite Rust Remover spray many times and
let it sit and do it's job... Then by twisting and turning the already loosened (screws removed and the pin) cap twist back and forth until the tanks drops downward.
It can be a horrible job getting them... be sure to use new gaskets where appropriate, fuel senders etc... change all the hoses that attach to the tank and to the filler cap... that is really important as they are now decades old, hard and brittle.
Think how good you will feel when it is all done and working! Have done this several times now and am getting ready to change my perfectly good (new)
S1 tanks for used S3 tanks to gain their returns line for the pending fuel injection upgrade from a carbed V8
#7
I had the tanks out on my Series 3 when I needed to do a lot of welding in that area, and it was an absolute PITA to get them out. 'icsamerica' has got the main bullet points. Don't forget the fuel pump feed pipes that pass across the void for the exhaust silencers. Undoing the securing bolts is normally pretty easy provided you know where they all are. The vertical 'long rod' was put in, I reckon, to save having to keep gravity at bay whilst securing the side bolts !
If and when you get the filler cap assemblies off, note the presence of the large O ring to seal it, plus the gasket. I found that releasing fluid, then twisting back and forth in small amounts loosened them up, then twisting with some upwards force gradually extracts them. It is a real PITA though.
If and when you get the filler cap assemblies off, note the presence of the large O ring to seal it, plus the gasket. I found that releasing fluid, then twisting back and forth in small amounts loosened them up, then twisting with some upwards force gradually extracts them. It is a real PITA though.
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#8
Xj6 fuel S1 tank removal
Hello all
I have read through the commentary and found it all very helpful
I'm at the stage of staring at the side bolts and need help with this next phase please.
How on earth do you get to the side bolts. Access through the boot was mentioned ? And do I have too remove the mufflers ? Bloody hell what a job !
Thanks in advance
John
Sydney
XJ6 S1 1971
I have read through the commentary and found it all very helpful
I'm at the stage of staring at the side bolts and need help with this next phase please.
How on earth do you get to the side bolts. Access through the boot was mentioned ? And do I have too remove the mufflers ? Bloody hell what a job !
Thanks in advance
John
Sydney
XJ6 S1 1971
#9
#10
XJ fuel tanks removal
Thanks Fraser
It looks like I have even more obstacles than I thought.
QUOTE=Fraser Mitchell;1191488]I can't remember whether you have to remove the silencers. I removed mine because of all the work I was doing in that area. Don't forget to remove the rear light clusters so you can disconnect the fuel level transmitter wiring.[/QUOTE]
It looks like I have even more obstacles than I thought.
QUOTE=Fraser Mitchell;1191488]I can't remember whether you have to remove the silencers. I removed mine because of all the work I was doing in that area. Don't forget to remove the rear light clusters so you can disconnect the fuel level transmitter wiring.[/QUOTE]
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