This is what I did Thorsen. The bleeders were abt $12 ea.
​​​​​​https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/rear...leeders/454364

 

The bleeders are Russell 641370

 

Lovely work! There are a few Jaguar IRS's out there that are pieces of art - that's one!

 

That's it! Those are much better than the almost $25 each I paid. Nice find!

 

Thanks Thorsen, I finally got it back in the car this past weekend. Now to tidy up loose ends and put a few miles on to see if my diff rebuild was successful. Then drop the front suspension to refresh and install the sport rack. Nearing time to pull the trigger on an lsx motor and hopefully a t56 trans.

 

The new custom made Goodridge hoses came yesterday.


In hindsight a 45° fitting would have been better than the 90°, but the 90° banjo fitting did work.


I need some more time to fabricate a mounting plate but I did bleed the rear brakes last night and there were no drips this morning. So the concept is solid and if you use the adapters Slofut mentions above this is a cost effective solution. Or better yet just mimic Slofut's solution and get rid of the need for flex hoses.

 

Um, I have a question:
It looks from here like the pipes to the bleeders are copper.
Is that a mere trick of the light or not?
I ask because early on I learned that copper can't be trusted in high pressure or flexing applications as it work-hardens (gets brittle) and can break at the most inopportune times ( learned that the hard way once with transmission cooling lines as copper was so much easier to fit).
Can you please clarify?
(';')

 

It looks like it's cunifer. But you're right - you should not use copper tubing for brake lines.

 

Hmh! First I ever heard of that!
Thank you.
(';')

 

Cunifer Material is an alloy, a mixture of different metals. Its name, Cunifer, is actually derived from its three main components: copper (Cu), nickel (Ni), and iron (Fe). This alloy has its own set of notable properties. It holds excellent heat exchange capabilities and is virtually resistant to corrosion.

Thorsen's pipes may be copper/nickel (rather than cunifer) as this is the most usual quality brake pipe material.

 

It's actually's @slofut 's work - we'll see if we can get him to confirm what he used.

 

Thorsen
I have just seen the post from which the quotation comes. This is my setup (poor photo but you can see it, just) that is my friend Michel doing the modelling:

As you can just see, one of the flexibles goes across under the nose of the diff and I have it running through P clips to ensure it does not flap about.

I also suggest fitting a cap onto the nipples of the bleeders as they get road dirty very quickly. FWIW I believe that flexibles are a better choice in this application, as there is always a slight degree of vibration/movement possible between the diff and the cage.

On my car when the diff started to come slightly loose from the cage (this is an earlier photo) it showed up as a weep on the factory screw fittings between the supply pipe T on the cage above the calipers to the caliper fittings. I actually have in stock some made-up flexibles to replace these hard lines, but as since my rebuild of the diff/cage/driveshafts no more weeping has occurred, I have not fitted them yet. But I did make the same 90° error as you have on the remote bleed lines and had to have them remade!
I am betting that this slight imperfection will get to you eventually, and you do the same!

 

Hey Thorsen, of course it's cunifer that I used. However Lnr's suspicions aren't without merit. I bought a roll of cunifer from one source (not cheap) that proved hard to make a good bubble flare with, the first flare was fine and it's on the cage but subsequent attempts were not acceptable. Bought different tools still no joy and started looking into the tubing and discovered what I had was highly magnetic, so I bought another roll (even more expensive) that was recommended by a guy on YT and it's mostly non-magnetic and more of a silver copper color. It worked out better, but another tool later proved even better so there are two different "cunifer" tubings in the pic. The better one is less copper colored. I have cunifer lines on my TR6, my 71 corvette, and have a premade kit for my xke but it's not installed yet. Need to get the xjc out of the way first. But since Volvo has used cunifer lines for many years and it's got some advantages over steel, I just prefer cunifer. Do be aware when buying coils though that some may not be as good a quality as others so do your homework.

 

Gregs pic just reminded me... I put the rear cage back in last weekend and despite having it noted in large caps to fill the diff before putting the cage back in the car, guess what I did! Well, it looked worse than it was. Last year I had bought a large 500cc syringe after someone on here (or maybe it was a guy on YT) had mentioned how handy they were, and stashed it in a drawer. Pulled the bottom tie plate off and used the syringe to fill it and it worked very well without much drama. Here is a link to the syringe, dang sure worth the money to have around.

 

In the Way-Back, there were those who called that syringe a "rose gun". Indispensable item in the shop.

Dave

 

Even after I re-sealed the original steering rack this winter, it was still weeping fluid on the floor. I debated trying to re-seal it again or take the L and move on. @slofut shared some information on the ZF Sports rack as fitted to the late XJS' and Aston Martins. After finding one that had been rebuilt I pulled the trigger and a few days later it was in my garage. I like the lighter weight of this rack and the substantial rack mounts.


The thing I don't like is that the ports for the power steering lines look like they want to occupy the same place as the left side exhaust pipe. If it comes to that, re-positioning the down pipe is not the end of the world. More to come when I have time this weekend to get in the garage.

Big thanks to @slofut for answering my questions and helping me find the right rack.

 

You're very welcome Thorsen, I'm just pleased I could help a little.

 

Also, Thorsen, it looks like you have JaguarSport rack bushes in there, which are easily the best sort to have.

 

Greg, My rack looks exactly like Thorsens and seems to be missing the inner poly cushions? Or does it install as pictured without inner cushions? I can't seem to find a definitive diagram. My plans were to find some suitable replacements.

 

Yes, from the photo they look exactly like my JS rack bushes, and the bolts should be a nice fit through the central holes.
It cannot hurt to place a poly thick washer over the protruding inner, but it is not needed.
The ZF rack was standard on most facelift XJS, I think, and I think the J/S bushes were fitted as standard at the factory. They cannot be removed except by destruction, so that is why they are there on rebuilt items. Ready fitted represents a considerable saving!:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

ZF racks are lighter weighted, are lovely to use; but they do leak after about 50,000 miles I have found.