Just took apart the front door of my XJ6C that I had used lithium grease a couple of years ago on the front and back window slides and carriers. What a gooey mess. It had hardened and was really sticky. No wonder I have to assist the windows going up and down manually. Anyone have recommendation as the a kind of grease that will not coagulate in a warm Florida garage where she's stored?

 

I'll be interested to hear responses. All I know is on mine when I recently took the rear window 'monkey climb' apart a yellow, still greasy goop was in the channels. I put white lithium in to replace while testing it and it didn't seem to do much in terms of lubrication...

 

I usually just spray the channels with silicone spray. It lasted some 40 years
for me.

Walter

 

I've always used the Silicone also. The key is to have very clean channels. Use paper towels to protect the paintwork and exercise the windows well when applying it. With windows down, spray into the channels as they go up, then spray as they go down, inside and out, up and down. It"s a two person job, unless you have really long arms.

 

Agreed on silicone for the felt channels.

For the arms and sliders of the window regulators I find wheel bearing grease works fine; doesn't 'cake up', gets the job done.

Cheers

DD

 

Hi yachtmanbuttson,

Silicone attracts dust, so that when your window is down whilst you are cruising, road dirt will be attracted to your window channels.

Graphite powder is the best albeit potentially messy solution for window channels.

Just be careful applying it.

Cheers,

Nigel

 

I always use Teflon spray (PTFE Spray).

 

The window regulators are almost certainly not what is causing your windows to need assistance.

The old felt channels grab at the window considerably, as noted by previous comments. With the door panel out, I can watch my XJS drivers window as it starts to go up and grabs the felt channel, which wrinkles up like a carpet before letting go and flattening back out.

I also agree regular old axle/bearing grease works just fine in window regulators.

 

I've never found the need to lube the felt channels in any of my critters.


But, a decade or so back, I tussled with lousy materials in the regulators of my 79 IHC Scout II. I used common chassis lube. Although in hot climes, wheel bearing grease for disc braked cars seem to make sense.


Carl

 

Really? The windows move so slow in my 87 XJ6 you could probably get to where you were going before the window got all the way down.

 

1) slow operation of the windows and/or "failure to proceed" of the window is caused primarily by the console switch contacts being dirty. Solution: remove the switch, carefully pry the switch apart, clean the contacts, reassemble. You will be amazed at the difference. These switches carry a full voltage which is what causes the problem. For the felt channels, as others have said, silicone spray.

2) I have restored many Series 3 cars. The very BEST lubricant for door locks, window mechanisms - or anything else - is a product called Rust Check; it is a superlubricant, harmless to rubber, paint or electrical connections - and at the same time it is superior rust preventative which displaces water. Available on line, or, if you live Canada, at Canadian Tire stores. Trust me on this.

 

My Series 1 windows go up and down really fast... change out the felt in the channels and do not use any lubricant. Make sure your switches are clean and working properly. Have good grounds on the window motors and make sure all the bolts are tight.

 

Any recommendations on channel felt sources? Thanks

 

Ha - I know all about that, I have a 73 scout II and a 67 Travelall...

 

Try either of these two sites:


https://www.steelerubber.com/


Door Seals, Rubber Seals, Rubber Extrusions, Window Rubbers UK | Seals Direct

 

Roger Mabry, where did you buy yours?

I also recently tried to contact a felt channel place and they didn't have my size. After witnessing the channel bind up in my XJS, I KNOW the issue is the channel. It doesn't need some lubricant because it didnt need it from the factory, so the channel needs to be returned to factory condition.

 

Oliver:


fun or no fun. I did like mine with all t's foibles. I bought mine in 81, a very nice basic 79. Great drive train. Solid 304. Dana 44's fore and aft.
Great MOPAR 727 box. Saginaw steering box.


Lousy bench seat, cheapo vinyl. Awful, tape on the dash to simulate an engine turned finish. Tinny radio. I fixed all that and more.


The small driver gear in the door regulator stripped out. Too soft for the job. But, I robbed one from a rear door of a 57 Ford wagon. Almost the same. A bit of lateral adjustment and whee wind uo window again!!


Amongst other stuff, I installed a pair of ex cop car Unity spotlight in the A posts. They just looked and worked great.


Brilliant orange aka Caltrans color with spoked whites OK.


Alas, no AC!!!!


Carl

 

stick shift 345 in the 4x4 Travelall with RV cam and four barrel. Deluxe ac equipped edition
345 in the 4x4 scout with RV cam, four barrel, msd, headers, 3 inch exhausts and the torqueflite. 3" lift, horrible on corners, turned front knuckles and a straight steer. Just rewired it with a kwikwire loom. It's pretty rowdy and will climb a wall...
Love them both, also have a 57 Metro van straight six, sloppy three on the tree - Jag and IH are my two great loves...

 

According to my old records:

Body - Body Rubber and Seals

 

I don't like silicone lubricants, or silicone brake fluid, or silicone in women's breasts, nothing siliconed. Actually, I hate silicone.