Who"s conversion mounts? You could get some 1/8 to 1/4 flat steel and shim the mount pad on the sub frame for a bit more clearance.

 

 

Years a go I took a pan like yours and cut it so the rack had more clearance. The part above the rack and behind was cut with a cut-off wheel and I then TIG (GTAW) welded a sheet of 26 gauge steel across the open cuts.

The pan now has a flat 90 degree angle around the rack. Lost a little oil capacity but with a cooler adapter on the filter mount I get it back.

Just an idea??

bob

 

I made my own mounts becasue I wanted the engine low and as far back as possible for road racing. The mounts I made have an considerable offset so no they dont line up. You can use 1/4 inch plate to extend the pad on the engine side and weld an upright from there. Leave the mount positioned on the frame and extending the block portion of the mount will give you lots of clearance and keeps the mount away from the heat of the exhaust,. You can only go back about an inch or so from where you are before the distributor get too close to the A/C fittings for practical service. Larger modern transmission and the big HEI distibutor can also have clearance issues if you set the engine too far back. Setting the engine back does make fitting the down pipe for the exhaust a bit easier as it's back and away from the tierod and steering shaft.

I also used a road racing oil pan with a trap door that was much flatter. Those stock chevy oil pans are quite bulbous with gentle curves so thousands of them could be stamped out quickly and precisely.

Here is a pict. I used XKR fluid filed mount for smoothness.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/g/picture/7099536

I used a pan like this with a flatter sump, trap doors and kick outs.
If you do change the pan make sure you get the exact and matching oil pickup tube.
With an aftermarket pan you can get the engine much lower in the car.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kys-100-68841

 

.

 

I used a kit from Johnscars that included engine mounts. His design using Mopar r isolators. That fact uncovered by roger Mabry . He is not a fan of them..

The point is that in my car, they mount using existing holes in the block a bit forward of the ones that were used when in the donor big Caddy. thusly, the engine ids tad back.

As my engine uses the Optispark, on the nse of the cam, there is no HEI issue at the stern ,
And, as Iso says, easier to drop the starter. sure was pleased at that., don't ask..,

Carl. . .

 

I like the idea of using adapters to move the engine mounts to line up with the pads.
i can set the engine back a bit as my car doesn't have air-con

keep the ideas coming, you are helping alot. pics would be good

Gary

 

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/12557558.html

My engine uses this pan, but it is for a later model engine.

I have included some photos with measurements from my car where the engine sits in the car.
The one from the rear of a valve cover is to the firewall
The one from of the valve cover it to rear of the radiator support piece.

I use Suncoast mounts, this placed the engine farther to the rear than the original Mundorf
mounts use on the prior 350/400 combination.

 

See Engine swap options XJ6

I assume you are installing an older generation Chevy small block, not a Gen IV LS series. The Suncoast mount works for the older GM engines, but the oil pan is always a problem. Most such conversions I've seen "dimple" in the pan, cut part of it away and re-weld, or some such fix. A ZZ4 pan on the SBC block may fit well as indicated above.

If you are installing a later LS engine, there are more choices that actually fit the XJ6, but you'll need to fabricate a custom engine mount that locates the bottom of the pan about 1/2" above the crossmember.

We installed an LS3 engine with a Holley 302-1 oil pan.


LS3 engine, custom mounts, Holley pan in 1972 XJ6 Series 1

 

going with the early chevy as LS are still expensive over here

 

MFP"

Which "early" Chevrolet ?

Off topic by decades. Post a pic of the A Tudor !!! I've messed with a few "A's" !!!

The last. A frame. "Z'd" at the rear. reversed spring eyes. 4" dropped axle. Warmed up flat head V8. 35 Ford wires in brilliant red. Beauty rims and no emblem caps.
27 T roadster body.

Alas, pre digital cameras. Only one pic somewhere???

Carl

 

early-ish 74 block

tha A is buried at the back of the garage, 302 ford, t5, 8" and tci frame

 

Thanks for the "A": picture. Very nice looking and it should drive very nicely.

Carl

 

I'm looking to convert to a chevy eng in ne but need insight on the best budget/performance friendly setup. I'm considering using the Jaguar Specialties conversion kit, has anyone used this kit? Any recommendations??

 

I have used the Jag Speciaties and made my own. Jag Specialtes is the way to go if you dont want to make your own mounts and engineer all the other stuff. Ive made my own mounts for a track car that needed to have the engine set as far back as possible with no regard for transmission or distributor clearance on the firewall..

The LT1 / 4l60e or T56 transmission and engine from a 1994/1995 Camaro, or full size impala/roadmaster is the budget friendly choice. The LT1 is capable of 330HP easily with basic upgrades and that amount of horse power is just about the limit of what the Jag chassis can take with out major upgrades to resolve wheel hope and other issues related to power holding.

If smoothness and quietness are paramount a LT1 from a B body with sound deadening iron heads is the way to go, this engine with its mild cam and sequential injection idles nearly as smooth as a V12
If you want to get to 330 HP and beyond, start with an Camaro LT1 with aluminun heads and a its larger camshaft, then add in headers and roller rockers.

LS engines are the best but not budget friendly. While a 4.8 or 5.3 can be had for a low price all the ancelaries like retrofit oil pan and standalone harness are still very pricey for the LS family..

 

Thank you, I appreciate the quick reply. I was leaning toward a 350 w/ the 4l69e transmission, but I will look for a LT1 also.

 

mfp-66,
I have a SBC pan that was in my series 1 laying around and had some worked done to it somewhere in it's past to make it fit. If you want a couple of pics I can post them for you tomorrow. I have a series 2 car with an SBC conversion(different set up from series 1 car) and can post pics of motor mounts and oil pan this weekend, if you're interested.

86XJSV12,
If you live in The States or Australia, the LS1/Vortec engines would be the way to go in my opinion, if you haven't bought a block yet. LS1/Vortec motors are the easy horsepower makers and can be done cheaply with stock parts, if you do some research and don't buy into the "You have to buy all the expensive aftermarket parts" hype. It seems anywhere else in The States except for California LS1/Vortec pull out engines can be had cheap from junkards. There's a whole lot of info for DIY harnesses for stock ecu's, cheap(reliable) aftermarket ecu's, cheap performance upgrade advice and general info on these two sites- LS1Tech https://ls1tech.com, Sloppy Mechanics Wiki https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/ Also, youtube Sloppy Mechanics. Matt Happel is king of cheap dependable horsepower. Jaguar Specialties has a kit that will work with LS engines. If LS engines are out of your budget, SBC aftermarket parts are cheap. The only problem seems to get equal performance from a SBC vs LS, things start getting pricey for the SBC. Just depends on performance goals. LS's can make around 400hp at the wheel with stock heads/intake/pistons and an aftermarket cam w/ a tune. I'm definitely a fan boy.

 

"mfp-66,
I have a SBC pan that was in my series 1 laying around and had some worked done to it somewhere in it's past to make it fit. If you want a couple of pics I can post them for you tomorrow. I have a series 2 car with an SBC conversion(different set up from series 1 car) and can post pics of motor mounts and oil pan this weekend, if you're interested."

gboy, all pics would be excellent, thanks

Gary

 

Says the guy who clearly never did it but loves to watch you tube videos.

So what oil pan and exhaust manifolds for this "budget" Jaguar LS conversion? These 2 item's cost 1/3 the price of a complete LT1 alone. What front accessories package is going to not put the A/C compressor inside the sub-frame while allowing the use of a low profile intake with a standard cable driven throttle body. Or are we gonna run that "budget friendly" drive by wire setup? LOL And what gauges are we gonna run on this CAN bus budget LS? LOL. I could go on and on. LS is not budget "friendly"... it's death by 1000 cuts.