Yes, continued cranking of a slow to start engine will "kill" a starter. Been there done that.


Circa 1950, I was attending TXC, now UTEP in El Paso, Texas. A school mate was married and struggling to get through school. The family car was a very tired 41 Ford coupe. Poor compression, so it was very hard to start. but, if the starter was fresh, a continuous crank would apparently build up enough PSI's to fire. Once running, kinda weak, but smooth and got them around. On more than one occasion, we pulled the starter out and "rebuilt" it. Usually new brushes and cleaning of the commutator restored the oomph.


Carl

 

in my '65 S type, the Starter requires lubing the insides every now and then, it is a pain to remove from the car but otherwise it starts to lock or screeching like a witch.

I have considered one of those new lighter (I forget what you call them) Starters but the consensus is that they do not last, so I am sticking with the original Lucas dated 1964 (yes Jaguar used to date every part in Jaguars, amazing).

 

Here is a geared lightweight starter, powered by a Nippon motor.



http://thedrivenman.com/i-13575112-g...automatic.html

 

I have heard those burn out quickly, short life, the 4.2 engine requires a lot of magnum power to crank.

 

It's a geared motor. Has a lot of torque.
There a few different makers.
They are used on some American cars.

 

Yup!


I just foisted a replacement on my LT1. Lying on my back under the Jaguar. A cavity above the down pipe, just barely visible. Got it into place and the bolts started mostly tactile. No third arm to point the flash light. Even in broad daylight, it is dark in the nether regions. Only thankful it wasn't the old big heavy starter types.


But, oh, oh, cable end fried. is that why? And is the possibly original GM starter just fine?


We sill see. Went to the local parts emporium. Old local type place. Alas, even if I had the old cable as a sample, the kid asked for make and model and started working on the computer key board. But, an older guy took over and went back to the rack and foud one that is very close. Close enough, I hope. Today, mebbe, I'll climb under and poke around in the guts and see if I can make a connection.


Oh, had to remove battery to access the post on the firewall. Weird little nuts on the hold down resisted. Drats, slots again. My biggest driver wouldn't bite and budge them. why, I dunno. Eureka, toy time. Dug out the socket with the bundle of wires that twist around a stubborn fastener of almost any size. It did. Off with them!!


Three slotted fasteners to go, How, is the question???


Yeah, many are made to retrofit. Usually a Denso starter and an alloy adapter with many hoses to be "clocked" to fit. some work better than others.


Carl

 

Carl,
you forgot to buy one of those fluorescent electric lights that mechanics use under the cars. They are a must to see the invisible. Remember the "black lights" in the 1960's ??
same principle.

 

Jose:


I have one. Black light is a great description!!! The only useful thing on it is the cord!!!


I do have an old incandescent model. But, it busts light bulbs on a whim. Not worth rigging.


So, the flashlight usually is good enough. Shine it in to the work area, memorize what it looks like and go on touchy feely!!


Carl

 

I frequently use flashlight / headlamp, the light shines right where you're looking.

Swivel Lens Headlamp

 

Ive has the battery and starter tested and both came out good. The grinding noise hasn't happened since but cranks on the first start of the day are really slow. Im guessing the starter has aged on this 82

 

I think what you have is a dying battery, and an alternator that is not charging the battery when the engine is running.

 

Sorry I mistyped that, what I meant was I went to oreillys and had the alternator tested and it came out good. The autozone battery test came back bad but a buddy of mine tested it with his and it came back good with a load test of 12.8 volts right after I parked in his driveway and shut the car off. Ive been driving with this condition for about a couple weeks. So im assuming the alternator works since its not just battery power the past couple weeks. I think ill try and new battery, right now I have a interstate battery that is sort of small relative to the size of where it fits. Car just cranks sluggish in the morning but fine the rest of the day

 

Well, my powers of deduction aka critical thinking are lacking at this time, but:


it appears that your battery and alternator are at least marginal. further testing in the car and with varying loads and rpm's is the only way to draw a better conclusion. Just the facts, sir! As per Sgt. Joe Friday of a long gone show. So, a VOM, digital preferred. a patch cord to connect it via the cigar lighter outlet. Volts in real time.


The system has a larger load with a cold engine. Expansion contraction and oil viscosity. Load not so much with a warm engine.


A third element, marginal starter.


A fourth element. Poor battery cables + and -. Or their connections. Six important ones!!!


All my present start issues traceable to a burnt cable at the solenoid.


Carl