Hi Everyone

This evening i finally lowered the cylinder head onto the fresh block and have used a new set of head studs and domed nuts. I have been very careful to ensure that there will be enough threads available within the nuts to torque the head down and on 2 of the studs i do not have enough, it's 2 of the 3 very long studs where the lifting eyes are placed. I know normally you fit the "thin" washer here but even with a thick one i still do not have enough, the studs are down as far as they will go, i went to the trouble of tapping out all the threads in the block first and ensuring there is zero crud in the holes. it a simple case of getting another washer and fitting 2 of them to the offending studs?

If not i know some others would have faced this and would be interested to hear how you overcame the problem...

Im pretty sure 2 washers would not cause a problem as long as i use the correct ones and not a home center cheap one.

thanks

Russell

 

Bugga.

If it were mine, I would be removing the core plugs in the block at the point where these studs thread in, and ensure they have in fact threaded all the way into thoaw cleaned out points.

If that proves OK, then 2 washers as you suggest is fine, and I have done that with no issues.

Ensuring they are 100% all the way down in those lower threads is paramount, or they will pull out, as not enough thread is securing them.

 

Thanks Grant

Thankfully all the core plugs are still out and this is the way i managed to get a tap in there to chase out the threads for an easy stud install.

The new studs came with a few more threads on them on the bottom end so when they are seated all the way down they show a couple of threads when viewed through the core plugs (They all look the same) BUT they are seated. After i chased the threads i cleaned each one out with cleaner and compressed air to make sure they are clear.

I'll go ahead an get a few washers on order.

 

I managed to find another option that did the trick without the need for any more washers.

I removed the head again and also removed the offending studs. Looking into the block confirmed there was zero debris BUT i did notice that the block was not threaded all the way to the bottom of the drilled hole, i managed to get another 2 full threads into the block before the tap gently hit the bottom. It's a 20TPI thread so 2 turns corresponds to 0.10" of additional thread or 2 extra turns on the nut which is what i needed to get the job done.

Everything together and the head is now torqued down (making sure not to "feel" the dome on the inside of the nut) and i am a happy camper..

Onwards!

 

Well done.

I remember the OE studs had a spigot on the bottom, and 3 threads short, just for what you found.

I removed the 3 threads on the bottom of the studs I fitted to many engines, so they were basically as the OE studs were.

 

Perfect and beyond ! The more thread bite, the better. Lottsa antiseize for the hoped for never again?


Carl

 

Definite yes on the anti-seize.

I also purchased a full stud kit where the material has a chromium element to offer some corrosion protection which can only be a good thing, not full stainless steel of course but just enough to help.

 

Great. And, I'm sure you will make sure the coolant is kept fresh. We all know the glycol will continue to offer freeze protection, but that the corrosion inhibitors have a finite life.
I've always wondered about those slick acorn nuts. How can one be sure that they clamp and not top out, ie stud end vs cap? Measure !!!!!


Enjoy the fruits of your labor.


Carl

 

Will definitely keep the coolant fresh, i am sure this was the reason i had to scrap the original block.

I did as you mention concerning the acron nuts, i ran it down the new stud before fitting it to the block and measured how much thread i had to play with so at least i could prevent topping/bottoming out the nut on the stud when i torqued the head.