What is pressure sensing hose and can it be replaced with regular fuel line? Thanks

 

Not too familiar with the D-Jet cars but the pressure being sensed is air pressure. Or more precisely, negative air pressure, what we normally refer to as vacuum. So, fuel hose should be fine....or fairly robust vacuum hose that won't collapse.

Cheers
DD

 

As Doug said.

All minel ran whatever fuel hose I had in stock, be it EFI or Carby spec. The Vac is not huge enough to collapse that spec hose, not even close.

 

Thank you. I'm at the "might as well" point in the project. Any tips for pulling the EFI and manifolds? This engine has been sitting for several years so I need to drop a little marvel oil on the tappets.

 

No coffee yet so watch out.

ONE bolt/nut/screw/clamp at a time.
TAKE SNAPS, do drawings, label EVERYTHING, check what you labelled 3 times before removing anything.

BEFORE lifting the manifolds:

Check, and check again, all through the V for any stray items.
Count your nuts and washers, screws, TWICE.

Move everything, and I mean everything, out of the engine bay that can fall, move, or anything remotely like that.

Once you lift those manifolds, gravity will have anything you have missed straight down the Inlet Port, and into the innards of the engine.

Many strange words will be uttered, many items will be thrown at walls etc, even the Jaguar Gods will be blamed.

That engine will need to come out, heads removed and that 5cent item found, FUN.

 

HOWEVER

If lubricating the cam followers is all you intend, then removing all that stuff is a LOT of beer consumption.

I have done it via the small oil switch AKA the Idiot Light Sender, and using a Brass adaptor with a barb fitting and a PROPER Automotive Syringe, "pre oiled" the system. NOT perfect by any stretch, neither is the way you suggest.
When priming you will feel the resistance on the syringe increase hugely as it fills the system, that is all you need. It will take about 1ltr approx.
I use the same method on rebuilt engines just prior to start up.

You are changing the oil??? and filter?? so pre fill the filter, then prime the thing as mentioned.

The V12 oil pump is a Monster, and flows shiiit loads of oil at high pressure and volume as soon as the crank rotates.

 

Understood. My first objective is replacing the valve cover gaskets/ oiling the cam lobes. The passenger side spark plugs & air filter are pretty black so while the cam cover is off I want to make sure no valves are stuck. By beer #3 I thought the manifold gaskets should be replaced because Murphy and his stupid law says there would only be an intake leak IF I left them alone.

 

AHA, the mud clears a tad.

GOOD MOVE on your part.

NOTE:
At the rear of each tappet block are Banjo oil fittings. DO NOT touch them, they have very few threads holding them in place, and access to sort them if fiddled with, is near zero with the engine in place. The oily mess is always from the "D" seal above.

Sooty plugs on a PreHE = normal. Mostly due to owners starting them to move them for other car access, or whatever, and then shutting them down before engine temps gets anywhere near normal. Starting them for short bursts is a big no no in my opinion.
The do run on the rich side, its a D Jetronic thing, and very little can be done about it, hence HE in 1982.

Some have a MAP sensor that is adjustable, and that is a good thing. The actual ECU may?? have a mixture trimmer "pot" also, some do, some dont. Lots of little tricks all over the place.
Ignition timing can be advanced quite a bit, with a good ear and some fiddle factor, that also helps.

 

Forgot to ask, will this engine have half moon seals hiding back there? Thanks