XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Dual Fuel Tank Switch malfunction--need advice

 
  #21  
Old 03-10-2015, 10:49 AM
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Davidboger,

A quick update on the fuel tank situation. I installed a double pole double throw switch in place of the original. Works great. I have control of each fuel pump. I also have the option of a center off position. Nice theft protection. The fuel tank has stopped leaking. The car set for quite a while, most likely with not much fuel in the tanks and I suspect the gaskets may have dried out.

I appreciate all of your help. I am learning more about this car as I move along. Had it on the rack to replace rear pinion seal and spent time looking for rust. It is clean with no rust. I am fortunate.

Again thank you,,
Jack
 
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  #22  
Old 03-10-2015, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 314jjwalls View Post
Davidboger,

A quick update on the fuel tank situation. I installed a double pole double throw switch in place of the original. Works great. I have control of each fuel pump. I also have the option of a center off position. Nice theft protection. The fuel tank has stopped leaking. The car set for quite a while, most likely with not much fuel in the tanks and I suspect the gaskets may have dried out.

I appreciate all of your help. I am learning more about this car as I move along. Had it on the rack to replace rear pinion seal and spent time looking for rust. It is clean with no rust. I am fortunate.

Again thank you,,
Jack
:-) must feel like starting an aircraft, fuel pumps, ignition, clear the fan!

great news on the lack of rust , seems to be the main enemy.
 
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  #23  
Old 03-11-2015, 09:25 AM
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Steve,

How do you like your 350 and T400? My xj also has a 350 with T350. 300 HP.
I love it. Smooth and reliable. I am also a BMW fan having owned 3 seven series. The last a 740 I. Great car but everyone has one. I have the only xj in my town in eastern Oregon. And yes I am a pilot, so switches are no problem. Do you find your car to be a little short on gear. I have a 3:31 rear end and am considering installing a 700R4.
That should help a lot. I would still have strong bottom end as well as lower rpm at cruise. any comments?

Again thanks for your help.

Jack
 
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  #24  
Old 03-11-2015, 11:37 AM
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I have a 350/700R4 combo in my car, and 3.31 diff, and I *Love* it!
That "stump pulling" first gear is Awesome with the overdrive feature and a lock-up torque converter!

I highly recommend the combination.
(';')
 
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  #25  
Old 03-12-2015, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 314jjwalls View Post
Steve,

How do you like your 350 and T400? My xj also has a 350 with T350. 300 HP.
I love it. Smooth and reliable. I am also a BMW fan having owned 3 seven series. The last a 740 I. Great car but everyone has one. I have the only xj in my town in eastern Oregon. And yes I am a pilot, so switches are no problem. Do you find your car to be a little short on gear. I have a 3:31 rear end and am considering installing a 700R4.
That should help a lot. I would still have strong bottom end as well as lower rpm at cruise. any comments?

Again thanks for your help.

Jack
Love the BMW 7 series comment :-) "everybody has one" they are clearly a lot thicker on the ground over there than in Oz. Good thing for me as I buy most of my parts via Pelican Parts in the US. Nice to have stuff readily available.

I think as Elinor has said the 700R is probably the primo set up with the 350 motor. I think the only advantage of the T400 is strength, they are hard to break. In reality its probably an academic advantage in normal use.

My car has a 3.08 diff so its not spinning that hard at cruise (2500). Slower would be better but that car mostly makes 100>200 km trips and not much on freeways so I dont really care that much. At the prices of trans here its hard to justify the swap, and with my level of use the T400 will probably outlive me.

If I used the car more and for long distances (thats the BMWs job atm) I would definitely do the 700R.

Cheers
 
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  #26  
Old 03-12-2015, 08:43 AM
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Steve,
Yes you are correct, the 400 is a stout transmission. I would love the 3:08 diff. i think the r4 with the lock up torque converter is a less expensive way for me to go. I don't go on many long trips. If I do I have other vehicles to choose from. I do, however, enjoy the Jag and would like a taller ratio. Have you seen any of the turbo conversion kits for 350's now on the market? What a sleeper that would make.
Thank you again for your input and have a great.

jack
 
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Old 03-12-2015, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 314jjwalls View Post
Steve,
Yes you are correct, the 400 is a stout transmission. I would love the 3:08 diff. i think the r4 with the lock up torque converter is a less expensive way for me to go. I don't go on many long trips. If I do I have other vehicles to choose from. I do, however, enjoy the Jag and would like a taller ratio. Have you seen any of the turbo conversion kits for 350's now on the market? What a sleeper that would make.
Thank you again for your input and have a great.

jack
You will probably end up driving it more once you do that (note the enthusiasm in Elinors response!). It would change the character of the car a lot I think and for the better. The turbo kits? oh yes, and they would even fit under the low bonnet line.
 
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2015, 09:33 AM
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Steve,

I love to drive it now, every chance I get. With 300+ hp and magna flo exhaust It is very spirited and yet not real loud. I did also raise the tire above factory suggestions. This help the under steer a lot. It handles much better now. Rides a little harder but the tradeoff is worth it. I think new larger wheels with lower profile will make a big difference. All in good time.

I would like to thank you and Elinor and the rest of the folks at the forum for all of your help. It is nice to talk and share with people of a like mind.

Jack
 
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2015, 10:41 AM
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Default V8 with 200R and 2:88 gears

My 1971 XJ has a 383 with 410 hp and 470# torque, with over 300# just off idle. It also has the Q Jet that maintains 15.2-15-4 AFR at steady highway
speed...

It pulls the higher 2:88 gears very well and does not have quite as low a first gear ratio as the 700R but does not lose as much in the shift from 1-2 as the 700R. Going down the highway at 70 mph it is at 1750 rpm...


I have two spare 2:88's, one locker and one not....they are listed in the ads on both Jag Forums
 
  #30  
Old 07-22-2016, 01:50 PM
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Realize this thread was old, but I had a fuel tank switch and gauge issue where neither worked (the switch clicked) but it only used the left tank and the right bubbled up gas if you opened the cap after driving for a bit.

Solution: The switch connector behind the dash had fallen off. Lucky me.

However, here's the important stuff:

1) I had purchased some aftermarket switches just in case I had a bad one
2) When i discovered I didn't have a bad one, I thought I'd replace it with the new one anyway
3) when I connected it, the fuel gauge worked, but unless I held the switch very tight to the connector, I would not hear the switch valves in the trunk moving.

Conclusion: the connectors on the back of the switch are skinnier than the original. While this may not be what causes this aftermarket switch (made by URO Parts -www.uroparts.com) not to work, I would be cautious about buying this switch and thinking it will definitely work.
 
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by re65 View Post
Realize this thread was old, but I had a fuel tank switch and gauge issue where neither worked (the switch clicked) but it only used the left tank and the right bubbled up gas if you opened the cap after driving for a bit.

Solution: The switch connector behind the dash had fallen off. Lucky me.

However, here's the important stuff:

1) I had purchased some aftermarket switches just in case I had a bad one
2) When i discovered I didn't have a bad one, I thought I'd replace it with the new one anyway
3) when I connected it, the fuel gauge worked, but unless I held the switch very tight to the connector, I would not hear the switch valves in the trunk moving.

Conclusion: the connectors on the back of the switch are skinnier than the original. While this may not be what causes this aftermarket switch (made by URO Parts -www.uroparts.com) not to work, I would be cautious about buying this switch and thinking it will definitely work.
One last tip - in order to make this truly effortless do yourself a favor and get the Bezel tool sold by Moss. They send two but you'll need the bigger one.

Lastly, no matter which switch you use ( and I hope you don't use the new one) secure it to the connection with electrical tape. Even my original kept slipping off, during reassembly.

Good Luck!
 
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  #32  
Old 07-22-2016, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by re65 View Post
One last tip - in order to make this truly effortless do yourself a favor and get the Bezel tool sold by Moss. They send two but you'll need the bigger one.

Lastly, no matter which switch you use ( and I hope you don't use the new one) secure it to the connection with electrical tape. Even my original kept slipping off, during reassembly.

Good Luck!
CORRECTION: You'll need the SMALLER MOSS bezel tool
 
  #33  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:00 PM
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I have an 87 xj6. When I push the tank selector in, the switch changes over to the left tank, the gauge goes to full but the switch will not lock into that position. You have to hold it in to run off of the left tank... I really need a new switch.... HELP!!!!!!
 
  #34  
Old 07-09-2019, 01:01 PM
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Do you have any switches for an 87 XJ6????
 
  #35  
Old 07-09-2019, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Zimmerman View Post
Do you have any switches for an 87 XJ6????
Jeff, I donít unfortunately. Maybe ring up Top Line Jaguar in Virginia (ask for Debbie or George). They may have a spare (a real one).

Also check this in case you got ahold of a bad aftermkt version or want to try and refurbish the original one Jaguar XJ6 SIII fuel switch analysis
 
 
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