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Did I miss something? why did you have to take it out again?
Torque converter got bumped, so had to check if it was located properly.
Hadn't got as far as doing engine mounts so unbloted bell housing lifted engine out of the way just to make sure. All was good, so straight back in again.
Done 120 miles now and all running sweet.
250 mile run today with forum members, all good. Really loosened up after the first big hill climb.
Dr Phill came along for the ride, which gave me a bit of peace of mind for the drive.
I've always believed to run it in the way you plan on driving it, along with a few high load followed by high vacuum runs, ie 3rd gear from 1500rpm to 4000rpm and then let it coast back to 1500rpm, followed by a short drive, the repeat the procedure half a dozen times, the theory being that the vacuum on decel pulls the rings out and helps them seat properly.
I've always believed to run it in the way you plan on driving it, along with a few high load followed by high vacuum runs, ie 3rd gear from 1500rpm to 4000rpm and then let it coast back to 1500rpm, followed by a short drive, the repeat the procedure half a dozen times, the theory being that the vacuum on decel pulls the rings out and helps them seat properly.
I was told after the first couple of short shake down runs (to sort any minor issues) to drive it exactly as I would normally, but avoid going over 2500 RPM where possible (100 kp/h is 2800), I did get it up to a bit 3000 a couple of times. So that is exactly how it is being driven.
It got a few high load runs up the mountains yesterday as well as high vacuum time coming down the hills again.
All under the watchful eye of my mechanic friend in the passenger seat.
Its one of those things, where every body has their own procedure.
When I did my apprenticeship at Ford, the XR8 sedans owned by the cops and younger owners went considerably better than the ones owned by older people who just commuted around town, less oil consumption, no blow by issues, noticeable increase in power etc
My latest engine rebuild on my 600hp skyline (godzilla motor) Basically involved the run in procedure as I mentioned earlier, with a couple of oil changes done early on, one at 250kms, and another at 1000kms, cutting open the oil filter at the time to inspect it for any excess wear, or anything unusual. I'm running 15psi now, will soon wind it back up to 30psi.
Other than my initial oil being a high zinc content (penrite running in oil), I'm running Penrite 10 Tenths Racing oil, fully Synthetic, and shear free, meaning that under all conditions and even after extreme abuse, the oil will maintain its spec'd viscosity, not as much of a concern in standard motors, but never the less, its good peace of mind for not much more $$
All in all we had great fun, revisiting the 80's when we spent our weekends playing around with **** boxes we could afford and having a few beers.
A good chance for long time mates to do what we enjoy most. Hanging out,talking ****, lots of laughs and twirling spanners.
In the end, shelling out for a new engine isn't a biggie in the scheme of things.
Good luck with it Clarke, just been down that road with the Rangie. The only thing I'd add (and I'm sure you know) is "the while your in there" change what's needed.
On it Jim, "while you are in there" cost me a motor.
Clarke, when you were a pup you looked a whole lot like Marty , in Mighty Car Mods (a couple of young blokes making money doing usually funny and often interesting car stuff on Youtube)
Developed a small rattle on cold start, goes away after a couple of minutes.
Could it possibly be the timing chain needs adjustment?
I checked the oil when I got home, just above the low mark. No leaks.
I will add some tomorrow before next cold start.
Maybe the top chain has settled a tad. It can happen.
Pop that breather cover, loosen that nut, push the plunger, and see if ONE more serration is doable WITHOUT getting it too tight.
It can be started with that cover off, maybe a bit of oil splash/spill, but for the few seconds you need well worth trying before refitting that cover.
Dont put your fingers etc in there once it fires, Mum would be pleased with the mess, NOT.
Failing that, I am thinking the oil is simply draining back, and that rattle is just that dreaded wait time till the pressure stops stuff making noises.
What spec oil ya using, I would be running 15W40 in that new engine, nothing heavier. You want that "fast flow" when cold starting.
Maybe the top chain has settled a tad. It can happen.
Pop that breather cover, loosen that nut, push the plunger, and see if ONE more serration is doable WITHOUT getting it too tight.
It can be started with that cover off, maybe a bit of oil splash/spill, but for the few seconds you need well worth trying before refitting that cover.
Dont put your fingers etc in there once it fires, Mum would be pleased with the mess, NOT.
Failing that, I am thinking the oil is simply draining back, and that rattle is just that dreaded wait time till the pressure stops stuff making noises.
What spec oil ya using, I would be running 15W40 in that new engine, nothing heavier. You want that "fast flow" when cold starting.
Dr Phill was thinking along the same lines with the upper chain. Staying over there Saturday night so he can play with it on a cold start Sunday.
Penrite HPR30, told to to use it by Murray from Peninsula Jag where I got the short motor. He recommended using it for the engines life, I will be using it for the warranty period at least.
He will be doing the first service and carby tune when I reach the required milage, just because I have invested over $6000 in the last 2 weeks and I want it to be covered should something go pear shaped.
My bad, the small issue we had on fire up was a leaking intake manifold.
Removed the manifold only to find the apprentice forgot to connect the vacuum hose to the transmission.
My bad, the small issue we had on fire up was a leaking intake manifold.