XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Fuel Pump Replacement

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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 12:27 AM
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Default Fuel Pump Replacement

Got the 87 XJ6 on the road for the first time in a year. It started up fine and ran great for the first two days but failed to start on day three.

I went in through the trunk and moved the fuel pump to check for any signs of connection problems or fuel leaks. I then cranked the engine and it started right away. I went back and listened to the fuel pump again. While it was running fine, it sounded like there was some debris inside making noise and I wondered if some rust had found its way into the pump from the tank.

The fuel pump has not been replaced in many years and began thinking it might be time to change it and I wondered about the idea of putting in-line fuel filters on the lines the come from the tanks that feed the selector switch and pump.

If I were to replace the fuel pump, what is the preferred pump to get these days? If I were to consider the duel tank filters modification, is there a suggested filter to use? Does adding these filters lead to any unexpected problems? Is it necessary to drain the tanks prior to making this filter modification? How difficult is it to drain the fuel tanks?

Thanks
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 01:06 AM
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Standard EFI 1/2" inlet external style fuel pump is all it is, and I use Goss brand down here.

Pre pump filters are a good idea, but they can clog and starve the pump for fuel, thus destroying it again. Sort of a rock and hard place situation.

Draining the tanks, YES. OR, clamp the hoses, which is NOT my preference with older hoses, as it tends to damage the inner lining, and reeks havoc.

The tanks have a small drain plug at the bottom, just be careful with fuel spill and fumes.

With non daily drivers, draining the tanks annually, is always a good practice to adopt.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 02:30 AM
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I've gone through my entire fuel system including replacing the pump. After some research on this Forum and online, I went with a Denso unit from Rock Auto (online). My tanks were like new inside, but I added one large 1/2" inline filter just after the tank switching valve as well as inline ball shut-off valves in each tank outlet (just inside the boot). I don't expect any issues, but will check that pre-filter after a few hundred miles to see what inevitable bits it has snagged.

Dave
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 04:39 AM
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Where did you find the 1/2" prefilters? and what micron rating did you select?
I tried this route earlier this year and wound up running 2 - 3/8" ones in parallel,.quite the job.
Thanks
Bobmo
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 12:00 PM
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Standard inline filters with 1/2" inlet/outlet are a little unusual these days, but the local Napa store had them. I didn't want to spring for a custom aluminum, see-through, reusable, hi-$$$ unit. As far as micron rating-I don't really know. I have used this style and brand for 40 years on everything from my home made parts cleaner tank to the usual old-school auto filtering duties. Metal housing/nipples with pretty good capacity.

Running 2- 3//8" filters in parallel would be more than "quite a job" considering the space around the spare tire. You are to be commended for your perseverance.

Dave
 
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Old Dec 28, 2019 | 05:26 PM
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2nd on Denso unit from Rock

My choice recently and it is built like a tank and is working great

Search a few posts for recommended pre-filts. The good steel unit number is mentioned several times

Drain and flush tanks and replace small mesh filters that are just above the drain plug on the bottom of the tank

Good luck!!
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 07:27 AM
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Anyone have a part number for these in-tank mesh filters?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 08:02 AM
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The 1/2" inline filter is NAPA 3299 or WIX 33299 (same filter)

The mesh pickup screen inside the tank is CBC5649

An argument could be made the the in-tank mesh screens are redundant if the lager pre-pump filters are installed

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 08:03 AM
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Here is the 2- 3/8" filters setup on the bench.
It fit well, but I had a tank to tank problem and removed the tank selector, and this is filtering only one tank.
Bobmo
 
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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 08:12 AM
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Hi

Just awoke and coffee brewing. Will pop downstairs and check my order records... but till then, visit SZnG Barratt web site for example

Go to Fuel System and Fuel Tank and Filler Cap 4.2

Here you see the drain plug and you should order new washers for plug big end and little bolt in plug. Also this page shows Fuel Sump Filter

Pricey but needed

Edit after Doug: CBC5649 is correct. My reference is similar but not the part I ordered. Sorry
 

Last edited by worzella; Dec 29, 2019 at 08:16 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 03:33 PM
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Thanks to all who responded. I noticed the new pumps do not have spade connectors like mine does and I did see several "Bosch OE" pumps on EBay that look very similar to mine with the same spade connectors?

The prices for all the pumps seemed similar. Does anyone know the p/n of the original fuel pump? If something along the lines of the original pump is still available, I might go that way but if not, I might change the connectors and go with Denso.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 04:17 PM
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The original Jaguar part number is CBC5657 and is apparently still available....for about $365

I don't know the original Bosch part number but I'm sure the info is out there

This basic design was used on a whole slew of cars of the same era using Bosch fuel injection. Heck, with 5 minutes of simple changes to the connections I recently used a spare out of my Jaguar box on a 1984 Toyota Century, like this:




Cheers
DD
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 06:47 PM
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One thing I forgot, only 2 coffees down.

Some pumps, brands that is, have the larger terminal as the +ve, some have the -ve as the larger.

Your old pump will be marked, so pay attention which ire came from the +ve, and the -ve terminal, and refit them that same. Some people have been caught out in here over the years.

The pump will work either way, but only pump fuel the correct way.

The V12's were the ones that stumped me in the very early days, and they are the same pump.
 
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