I was scrolling through some of the other forums here but nothing seemed to quite answer my question. This tank was put in about 2 years ago and already leaks like hell. Now I was able to locate the leak, as it only leaks once it gets up to what I believe may be the sender?? Regardless this is the leak’s origin, and I am wondering if there is anyway to fix this without removing the tank. Im down to only one tank and the other one also leaks, but after months of attempts I cannot get the filler neck out and have damaged the paint pretty badly around it. With this tank being new I am hoping the filler neck would come out easier but am wondering if I could fix it without removing it. I have attached a picture below. This is the Left side tank.

 

Hard to tell if that leak starts at a pinhole below the sender, or if maybe it's just the sender gasket and it's dripping down to that point? Or the sender may not be twisted in all the way home (tight against the gasket). I have a feeling you're aware of the sender fitment and it's a pinhole leak ...which ain't good.
Btw... if that tank was new two years ago, can you tell us what brand it is? Or where it came from? It doesn't look like the new tanks I'm familiar with.

 

Try using a strap wrench on the filler neck.

 

The sender seals are very easy to replace via removal of the rear lights.
Drain the tank with the small screw on the button, breathe in lots of fumes and smoke a cigarette while you do, remove the light lens and then the shiny bulb housing, then the sender can be removed be use of a flat head screw driver and hammer by tapping the rotating locking thing in the correct direction.
New seal on and reverse procedure, that will eliminate that as the issue with minimal work. It'll also allow you to test your fuel sender and see if its float is full of fuel and making it read low.

Removal of the tank is a nightmare in my experience, maybe 3 hours a side it took me. Theres 3 bolts (I think) that bolt it to the inner panel of the truck/boot. One can be accessed from the boot, the other key hole surgery style though the hole the exhaust comes through at the rear (you'll have to push the muffler off its rubber mount and then fight it back on later), then the last bolt can be got at if you unscrew the rear muffler heat shield and let that drop down. It's up in that dark hole somewhere.
Theres also a hose that penetrates into truck/boot, remove with a spanner if you can. Then the fuel line at the bottom rear. All of which are horrible work to get off and on haha.
Oh and getting the tank filler out, is removal of the 4 screws, then pulling up and out towards the back of the car enough to expose the hose on the front of it for cutting, cut the top open and try not to lose the hose down the hole.
Then you'll find its easier to get out. It will come out with twisting, pulling and rocking movements. It's just the 4 screws and that small hose thats holding it there.
On reinstall the hose is very hard to reconnect and push back into the hole, I did it by pushing the hose in to the hole with a screw driver while pushing the filler back down. Hard work.

Also, I've just recently had a poor experience with new tank seals, so I would perhaps suggest that it's a crappy seal that couldn't handle the petrol and its just given way.
At a minimum it's a cheap and quick way to eliminate that as a problem.

Or, if you find its a pin hole, then JB tank weld will get you out of a pinch. Just drain the tank enough to make sure it's not seeping out, dry and clean it and put a little on where the pin hole is.
If it's coming from under the seam it might be harder, or perhaps JB tank weld around the whole thing. Might buy you some time.

Good luck!

 

I won't say it's a "proper repair" but it does work. I used some to patch a pinhole in one of my tanks years ago and it is still holding. I intended it to be a temporary repair and then forgot about it!



Cheers
DD

 

Hey that's pretty cool Doug, never seen that before.

 

"Cure color dark GREY"

Yous Yanks finally learning how to spell?