XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Handbrake cable

 
  #1  
Old 09-05-2014, 01:09 AM
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Default Handbrake cable

So the 1 week Jag newbie figures, better get the handbrake fixed before I try to get this Canadian import inspected in TX. Get underneath, looks like a simple adjuster. After squirting some penetrating oil, I loosen the locknut and then turn the cable. I can feel that its getting would up like a spring, but there does not seem much I can do about that crusty grimy thing.

Then go to pull the handbrake and see how it feels, and it simply breaks away. Great, now in addition to the alternator, I have this to deal with.

On this page, apart from the $60 cable (#10), do I need any other part? Other cheaper sources? I guess I could try John's cars or the junk yards.

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist







 
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:03 AM
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I don't think $60 is expensive for a hand brake cable. I paid $20 for a second hand one while I waited the 6 weeks for a new one,then held onto the second hand one for a spare.
I don't believe used parts should be used for brake or steering repairs (except PS pump) unless you have no other choice or you recondition them before fitting. But that is just my opinon.

Your cable looks different to my series 1 so I cannot comment on what else you may need.
 
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:13 AM
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SNG Barrat needs to know if my car is long wheelbase or not. Huh? Didn't know about that option. Someone please tell me its not, cuz' I said no.



 
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:48 AM
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All Ser IIIs were built on the same wheelbase.......can't remember what the actual measurement is but it's the same as the 'long' version of the Ser II. So....tell them 'long wheelbase'.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:27 PM
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Yup, long 112.8"
 
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:47 AM
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The handbrake adjuster you see is merely there to adjust the cable for slack when first installed. Normal adjustment takes place within the handbrake caliper lever using an ingenious self-adjusting mechanism that does, however, seize up after a while unless the owner has been really fastidious with his maintenance. Most owners are not fastidious enough !! The other problem with US and Canadian cars is that so few owners use the handbrake when parking the car, relying on Park instead. SO the handbrake eventually seizes up through lack of use.

So although you are going to replace the cable, you really do need to check out the handbrake caliper action. Almost inevitably, you'll find that the calipers need attention and their inaccessible position means the rear subframe needs to come down. This is not such a dreadful operation as you might think. The other alternative is to remove the calipers, and check everything out. All the parts to rebuild these calipers are available individually.
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 06:55 PM
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Replaced handbrake cable easily enough. After adjusting the slack, I can confirm what Fraser said - it is merely for adjusting the slack, cranking on it does not really make the handbrake bite any harder. Anything more than a slight slope, and the cat will roll, handbrake on or off.

But, I got it past inspection

The inaccessible position is quite right. I did not feel inclined to drop the subframe for this silly reason. However, looking at the driveshaft pic I posted above, and scrutinizing the body panel cut-outs right above the drive shaft, is that stock? I seem to recall the PO saying that his mechanic cut out a hole for access to the rear cage, however lifting out the rear seats, I was able to find anything that looked like a quick access trapdoor
 
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:50 PM
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I don't see any body panel cut-outs in your pics.

I'm not aware of any Ser IIIs having EZ access holes or trapdoors to service/repair the brakes.

If you *really really* want to do it you can remove the calipers (main calipers or handbrake calipers) without dropping the subframe. It *can* be done. You won't like it. But it can be done


Cheers
DD
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:10 AM
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Better to drop the subframe out and fix everything that needs fixing. You won't then need to do it for another 10 years if done right. It is likely the caliper seals need replacing and probably the diff oil seals. I could go on !
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fraser Mitchell View Post
Better to drop the subframe out and fix everything that needs fixing. You won't then need to do it for another 10 years if done right. It is likely the caliper seals need replacing and probably the diff oil seals. I could go on !

I agree. Do it all and be done with it! The ala carte treatment on repairs in this area is just torturing yourself!

Cheers
DD
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 02:48 PM
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At one time, I thought there might be acess ports in the boot. Two circular stampings suggested it. No, merely panel stiffeners. or, might have been a plan at one time, but abandoned.
 
 
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