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Hey Guys, I've noticed I get water in my trunk when it rains. Picture attached shows the black cover that I'm not sure what it does, Should there be water tubes on each end of this that let water drain? Both ends are completely rushed. Any information and or sources to locate this system would be great! Thanks
I guess its what catches the water that comes into the trunk area, and also part of the air extraction system. Looks like I'll be researching the extraction system as well.
It's part of the flow-thru ventilation system. Cabin air enters via that square cap on the top of the package tray and exits into the trunk via the four rectangular flapper valves. Fresh air is pulled into the cabin via the HVAC fans and exits the cabin via this extractor system. Plus it functions as a pressure relief when you close the doors.
Hi,
I recently removed my drain tray to fix the "cowbell" vents ( the clapping noise from the flaps when closing the doors ). To replace the rusted tray, you will need to start by removing the sunroof motor which might be tricky in your case, is the bag setup in the way ? After that, remove all the nuts then carefully pry the tray off, it's sealed to the body with weather stripping and mastic material. The drain hoses which are missing from your pictures exit in the rear fender wells. I'm posting pictures of how I fixed mine. After blasting the inside to remove some surface rust, I filled up the seams inside the trough shown in one pic with epoxy before painting to stop any water from pooling there. The vent flaps are a thin piece of metal glued to a piece of fabric ( silk ? ) that acts as a hinge with a piece of headliner material glued over the cloth on the inside to act as a cushion & seal. This foam usually has died long ago letting the metal clank every time the doors shut. Also if the drain trough around the trunk / boot lid and opening gets even slightly blocked, all the water will enter the vent slots in the forward wall of the trough going into the tray. If the drain holes in the tray or the hoses are clogged, your boot will fill with water and become a fish tank !
I would recommend trying David at everydayxj.com for a replacement vent / dray tray.
Removed tray with loose vent flaps, trash and monster spiders - luckily dead !
Blasted inside ready for paint End seams, drain holes, before filling / coating with epoxy
vent slots in boot drain trough slots from inside, tray removed
Ready for new weather stripping & mastic Fender well drains, hose to upper left Inside placement of drain hose, right side, tray removed.
I always wondered what the drain tubes were for. Obvious now, rain water can get into the pan via the slotted vents.
So today has not been the usual dead loss. I learnt something useful............
Yes. I had the same problem, rusted tray leaking water into the trunk. Could not figure out why it was there.
My solution was to clean the area under the front of the trunk lid and cover the drain holes with a strip of aluminum tape with a sticky backing. Then paint it black to blend in.
So now water just runs down either side of the trunk and not into the tray and drip into the trunk through rusty holes.
Yet another Jaguar "interesting engineering feature" !
The though crossed my mind about just sealing up the slots as well !
I think the rear package tray hole / vent slots may have two functions;
A to remove cigarette smoke and provide an exit for stale air when the windows are up ( without polluting the trunk contents ).
B To help remove moisture from the rear screen to prevent fogging.
If anyone wants pics of the flap overhaul just let me know, I reused the fabric ( think it's nylon etc ) and used extra headliner material as cushions like the originals.
Hi,
I recently removed my drain tray to fix the "cowbell" vents ( the clapping noise from the flaps when closing the doors ). To replace the rusted tray, you will need to start by removing the sunroof motor which might be tricky in your case, is the bag setup in the way ? After that, remove all the nuts then carefully pry the tray off, it's sealed to the body with weather stripping and mastic material. The drain hoses which are missing from your pictures exit in the rear fender wells. I'm posting pictures of how I fixed mine. After blasting the inside to remove some surface rust, I filled up the seams inside the trough shown in one pic with epoxy before painting to stop any water from pooling there. The vent flaps are a thin piece of metal glued to a piece of fabric ( silk ? ) that acts as a hinge with a piece of headliner material glued over the cloth on the inside to act as a cushion & seal. This foam usually has died long ago letting the metal clank every time the doors shut. Also if the drain trough around the trunk / boot lid and opening gets even slightly blocked, all the water will enter the vent slots in the forward wall of the trough going into the tray. If the drain holes in the tray or the hoses are clogged, your boot will fill with water and become a fish tank !
I would recommend trying David at everydayxj.com for a replacement vent / dray tray.
Removed tray with loose vent flaps, trash and monster spiders - luckily dead !
Blasted inside ready for paint End seams, drain holes, before filling / coating with epoxy
vent slots in boot drain trough slots from inside, tray removed
Ready for new weather stripping & mastic Fender well drains, hose to upper left Inside placement of drain hose, right side, tray removed.
Cheers,
Brian
Would someone get away with redesigning this piece to make it a smaller footprint to allow audio speakers in the rear parcel deck?
Hi,
You could cut out the round sunken areas to either side of where the tray mounts like Darren did in the other thread and still use the drain / air extraction tray. Or you could remove the tray, seal the boot lid trough vent slots and use the whole back shelf for speakers. There are still two vents behind the back seat to allow some air into the trunk to remove fumes etc.
I think any new speakers in the shelf would require removing or redoing the trunk trim pieces too ( Masonite with the fiber sound insulation ).
Hi,
You could cut out the round sunken areas to either side of where the tray mounts like Darren did in the other thread and still use the drain / air extraction tray. Or you could remove the tray, seal the boot lid trough vent slots and use the whole back shelf for speakers. There are still two vents behind the back seat to allow some air into the trunk to remove fumes etc.
I think any new speakers in the shelf would require removing or redoing the trunk trim pieces too ( Masonite with the fiber sound insulation ).
Cheers,
Brian
I think with the amount of effort it would take to make my tray and drain tubes functional again it would make sense in my brain to eliminate and put a flat smooth parcel in its place. The ends of my tray are completely rusted off with no tubes to be found. So would I just be able to fiberglass from the back over the vent slots? sounds like problem solved