I can't seem to locate a write-up on removal of the hood (bonnet in Jag-Speak). Does anyone have one? I'm terrified of finding a misalignment issue on re-installation, as mine is just perfect in that regard and latches/releases smoothly.

 

Yes, proceed with caution as getting it lined up again is tricky. The service manual has instructions. The trick is to mark where the hinges are with a very fine tip Sharpie or an awl so you can get them back in the right place. There are several discussions here on alignment when reinstalling so read those first before you begin so you know what's coming. BTW it's a three person job to remove it - one on each side and one to remove the bolts.

Jeff

 

if I recall correctly, I managed to remove mine alone. Way back when!!! circa 2001!!!!

But, when time came to replace it it took two men and a woman!!!

I did scribe the hinge locations. No help at realignment timer!!

Al McLean at the old J-L had a brilliant way to realign. Remove the grill. Work on the hinge bolts through that opening. Alas, too late for my endeavor.

Although mine is not quite aligned, it functions.

Carl ..

 

Hello, Ian,
I have done this Twice, and I can tell you that, before you loosen even one bolt;
Scribe around the hinge mounting points on the hood deep enough so you can see them in a few months, especially around all the corners and curves. Go well and truly through the paint down to shiny metal, as far as possible to a complete circuit of the hings mount.

Loosen and remove the safety link. the hood might rest on the bumper but I haven't seen one that went that far forward.

Remove the 6 bolts, remove the hood and lay it aside (I had husband and my beefy neighbor help with this step). Be Sure to put the mounting bolts back in the holes they came out of so they don't get lost.

When reinstalling the hood, install all 6 bolts sort of tight but don't fully tighten.
As close as possible (should be possible to get Right On) position the hinges inside your scribe marks, equal distances all around. The curves make it easier to find the right spot.

Gently lower the hood, resting on the safety latch or the latching studs. Check clearance all around, shifting the hood back/forth, up/down. The bolts need to be tight enough to hold position but loose enough to allow this movement.

If it's more or less equal on both sides, repeat gentle lowering until you're satisfied you got it right.
Then take a deep breath and drop it from full height (you'll sweat bullets first time you do this).

If all is well, Tighten those bolts, reinstall the safety link and DRIVE THE WHEELS OFF THE CAR!

I wish you success.
(';')

 

Carl is right. It makes it easier when reinstalling to remove the grill (just 4 easy to reach bolts) and then you can reach through the grill opening to make the final tighten on the bonnet hinge bolts.

Jeff

 

Yes, I read about that, tried it, didn't work on my car. One Can remove the grill if there's room to get your hands in. I have small hands and couldn't do it.

My car has no such space. In fact, when I put the transmission cooler out front, I had to be Very careful where to place it so the grill studs didn't puncture the tubes.
(';')

 

Many thanks LnrB. Now I'm really scared! Once I had to remove the doors on my E-Type and I drilled two 1/4" holes through the hinges into the bodywork to insert "positive locating pins" upon reassembly. I was really pleased with myself for coming up with such a great idea. When I put the doors back on, and pushed in those pins,the doors were completely out of alignment! I never did figure out why, hence my intrepidation on the hood removal. Time to jump in with both feet I guess!

 

On No, Ian, like a lot of other things it's only terrifying the first time. Just get a trusted friend to help you wrestle the thing. It's more awkward than heavy, and it's heavy enough.

Be sure you make DEEP scribe marks and stay very close to the hinges while making marks, especially around the corners (you have a 2-axis index) and the outboard curve. Between those 3 points, assuming the fenders haven't been jimmied, you're golden. You can make small adjustments before you ever lower the hood for the first test fitting.

When I got my car someone had really botched the hood alignment at some point in the past, and taken that Lovely, shiny BLACK paint off in several places along the fender. Large chips big as a finger nail were missing showing the sickening yellow beneath. That made a Really easy act to follow and I was pretty sure I could do better than that. If I chipped the paint there was always my bottle of BLACK nail polish to cover it.

You'll do fine.
(';')

 

Not for certain, but, I think the idea is to tilt the bonnet all the way forward. then remove the screws that fasten the grill. Removal of the "monkey motion" device that holds the bonnet open is useful to gain room.

Fear not, it can and has been done by a lot of folks... At various skill levels..

Survived my poke in the eye at the eye doc. Interval now greater. Next poke 1-3-2020!!!!
Visited the phlebotomist(sp). Another poke. Regular Doc wants to review. I'll see her on 12 -09-2019,,,

Daughter provides transport. Also, delicious lunch. Roast chicken, teeny potatoes, Spanish rice and salad. Sweet tea to wash it down..

Carl

 

I have removed and reinstalled my hood many times while working on my car.

I have done it alone each time and it isn't the worst job. The hood is super lightweight and I was able to hold it up in place with one hand and put the bolts in with the other hand.

Someone had repainted the mount on mine without removing the hood from the mount, so it was already clearly marked exactly where it was mounted haha.

 

Well, based on Mad Hatter's post, we now know the true identity of Iron Man.

 

Elinor, interested in your not being able to access the studs to remove the grill. I know yours is a series 2 and mine is a series 3. I just went out to the garage, opened the hood, and snapped a photo of the back of the grill. You can clearly see the four little nuts on the studs. Top, bottom, left and right. I had someone kneel down in front by the license plate to catch the grill when it came out, socket wrench to remove the nuts, tap with the heel of my hand and it came right out. How is yours different, Elinor?

 

Wait what?


I have a S2 and I believe it is nearly identical. I read Elinors post as that she didnt have enough room to make the adjustments after reaching in through the removed grill. Not that she had trouble removing the grill, although I could have misinterpreted.

 

Mad Hatter is correct.
I can easily remove the grill, but once the hood is down there is no room for my hands, let alone tools to adjust the bolts in that manner.
(';')

 

Makes sense now. I have a Chevy truck radiator, AC condenser and that's it. I have lots of room in there.

 

Oh, me. Although my car is an SIII, I might just have a look as to how much room there is to get to the hinges with the bonnet closed and the grill out. Well, probably not, ain't gonna remove the grill.

DMV issues again. Timely renewal an issue on the Jaguar !!!! Partly me, and partly them...

Carl

 

Got a 76 XJ6L. Can you post a picture of the paint job on the hinge? That'd great to see. Having the worst time with my hood -- it pops open in the highway. It'll need adjusting, and don't feel like paying $400 for a realignment.

thanks!

 

If you are talking about my post when you reference the "paint job on the hinge", my car was repainted, and their sloppy job was what gave me an indication where the bracket was supposed to be aligned on the hood.

I am not willing to go remove my hood again to take a picture of it, sorry.

 

No worries. Just wanted to get a good look at the bracket alignment. Look forward to future correspondence.