injector specs
Helped a little but not what I was hoping for. cleaned all the injectors, replaced hoses and o rings, adjusted throttle plate. still not firing right up. I think it would be real nice if the pump would prime the system before engaging the stater, but any input to help start would be helpful. I also did cap, rotor,and plugs. Maybe out of time? I don't have a timing light anymore but I guess if I had to I could get a new one, but something is telling me that it is O.K. Could be wishful thinking though.
I can't remember the specifics. Long cranking time, perhaps? If so, how long?
I think it would be real nice if the pump would prime the system before engaging the stater
If everything is in good order the pump will pressurize the fuel rail in about 2 or 3 seconds.
Have you tried the 'put it in drive and turn the key to start' trick? Did it make any difference ?
Have you checked fuel pressure?
, but any input to help start would be helpful. I also did cap, rotor,and plugs. Maybe out of time? I don't have a timing light anymore but I guess if I had to I could get a new one, but something is telling me that it is O.K. Could be wishful thinking though.
You could just experiment by turning the distributor a few degrees just to see if anything changes
Cheers
DD
I don't quite understand the putting it in D thing. do I just put it in drive with the key in the on position for a couple secs. first? The pump is new and putting out good pressure. I'll give it a try.
Put it in "D" (or anything except "P" or "N") and turn the key to "Start" for a few seconds. This operates the fuel pump without operating the starter, thus pressurizing the fuel system.
Now try starting normally.
Any difference?
A million years ago I had a problem with long cranking on my Series III. Very long story short, a new battery solved the problem.
Make sure the battery is 100% charged and the connections are good.
Cheers
DD
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Put it in "D" (or anything except "P" or "N") and turn the key to "Start" for a few seconds. This operates the fuel pump without operating the starter, thus pressurizing the fuel system.
Now try starting normally.
Any difference?
A million years ago I had a problem with long cranking on my Series III. Very long story short, a new battery solved the problem.
Make sure the battery is 100% charged and the connections are good.
Cheers
DD
Now try starting normally.
Any difference?
A million years ago I had a problem with long cranking on my Series III. Very long story short, a new battery solved the problem.
Make sure the battery is 100% charged and the connections are good.
Cheers
DD
I've always wondered about the battery. I know the newer jags are very picky about CCA and CA, are these also. What is the correct amps?
I can't remember the spec but it's nothing unusual ....750 CCA or such.
An idea might be to charge the battery overnight so that it is *really really* fully charged for the next morning. Then try starting. If it starts much more easily, there's a clue.
Also important, naturally, is voltage drop at the junction posts on the firewall....or anywhere else.....and good solid ground points, etc.
Might also wanna check for voltage drop at the *fuel pump*. If the pump is starving for voltage it won't have as much oomph, obviously.
Cheers
DD
I can't remember the spec but it's nothing unusual ....750 CCA or such.
An idea might be to charge the battery overnight so that it is *really really* fully charged for the next morning. Then try starting. If it starts much more easily, there's a clue.
Also important, naturally, is voltage drop at the junction posts on the firewall....or anywhere else.....and good solid ground points, etc.
Might also wanna check for voltage drop at the *fuel pump*. If the pump is starving for voltage it won't have as much oomph, obviously.
Cheers
DD
An idea might be to charge the battery overnight so that it is *really really* fully charged for the next morning. Then try starting. If it starts much more easily, there's a clue.
Also important, naturally, is voltage drop at the junction posts on the firewall....or anywhere else.....and good solid ground points, etc.
Might also wanna check for voltage drop at the *fuel pump*. If the pump is starving for voltage it won't have as much oomph, obviously.
Cheers
DD
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