So,
time for an oil change. I'd like to do it myself this time. But I never did it before. True is that if I do not start I will never end!
First question is, which oil should I use. it always had not full synthetic oil.
Should i go for full synthetic ? May someone give me a brand and type of oil for my engine ? I know most people use 20/50, but which brand ?
and can I drive the car on winter with that oil ? I live in California and it is
never too cold here.
IS there any resource like a self teaching video on how to do it ?
thank you!

 

never use synthetic, it is too thin and it will create leaks.

use Castrol 20W50 perfect for California.

if you have never drained the oil or replaced the oil filter, get it done by someone who knows.

it is not difficult, but you need to raise and lower the car several times, and work under the car, these cars weigh over 3,800 lbs. most of the weight is at the front. If it falls on you, you are KAPUT!

Do not risk your life, take it to a Jaguar shop or dealership and tell them you want Castrol 20W50 oil and a good quality oil filter.

 

Opinions of engine oil are like opinions of beer

Over the years some report leaks after using synthetic, others don't. You can give it a try and see what happens. Personally I don't see any tangible real-word benefit to using synthetic but that's a different discussion

Yes, 20/50 is the most popular weight.

Ages ago I always used Castrol for sentimental reasons but gave it up. For years now I've been using whatever name brand non-synthetic oil happens to be on sale that day. Nothing bad has ever happened.

Cheers
DD

 

I would have a mechanic do that but the two best quoted mechanics in the bay area for jags have long time wait list. I am on queue since more than 1 month by now...

 

I agree. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You go to a 35 dollar oil change place and them guys will screw something up somehow...someway

 

have you contacted any of the area Jaguar clubs? They have monthly Meets where they sometimes bring a mechanic to check cars, service cars, etc. Join the herd for a while, it will be to your benefit. After a while you tell them I'm tired of this bullshit social crap, I'm done.

But I'll tell you how to do it at home:

1) you need a hydraulic jack to raise the front of the car, at least a 3 ton jack;

2) once raised, then you place jackstands under each lower wishbone or "A" arm,

3) for extra safety, you put a concrete block under each tire;

4) then you place a large piece of cardboard on the floor,

5) then you need a ½" inch ratchet and a 19mm or 22mm socket and a rubber mallet.

6) then you need a pan to drain the used oil into, and you need a good number of rags
and rubber gloves because it is going to be a mess;

7) once you got all that in place, you are going to loosen the drain bolt counterclockwise under the sump; The bolt will be tight and you hit the ratchet which you have already set in the reverse or loosen position, with the rubber mallet to loosen the 19 or 22mm drain bolt.

8) then you slowly turn the drain bolt because if you don't, you will get a splash of black oil on your face and hair, and you will smell like burnt oil for a week. All the while you are turning the drain bolt, you are aligning the collector pan with the bottom of the sump because the car being at an angle, the oil will come out at an unknown angle and chances are it will end up in your hair because it never fails to go where you don't want it to go.

9) so now the oil is draining, you are going to clean and inspect the drain bolt, if it didn't fall in the drain pan and you have to submerge your hand in there to look for it, that is why I told you it would be a mess.

10) Now you need an oil filter removal wrench, which I forgot to tell you you needed too in No. 5.

11) so you try to remove the oil filter and it won't move, then you need to make sure you are trying to move it counterclockwise, difficult to do when you are on the floor with 3,800 pounds of dead weight over you. Hard to concentrate. If it still won't move, you need to try a good smack to the removal wrench with the same rubber mallet, until it moves.

12) once it moves, it will start dripping oil uncontrollably, so you need to move the collecting pan to collect the second drain that will start when you loosen the oil filter.
The filter is full of old oil and every turn will spill more oil on your hair.

13) and once you reach the end of the threaded hollow stud where the filter is threaded into, you will get another amount of oil which you need to try to collect too by moving the collecting pan.

14) by this time you will regret messing with this project and will start cursing I should have let someone else do this.

You can only learn by doing it, there is no method right or wrong, what you do need to know, is that it is a messy messy job, and you will have old oil all over the place, and in your hair and face.

The Second Part of this Odissey comes later, you are not finished YET, Two Thirds of the job remain. You will regret it I promise and you will remember me telling you DON'T DO THIS IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO IT.

 

Hi xjfourty,

As above, but also;

Much easier and quicker to drain the oil if it is warm, so take the car for a run first.

Just be careful of hot surfaces when you get under the car and start poking around. On the plus side though, the drain plug is under the inlet side not the exhaust side so not as warm as it could have been.

I always find the catching pan should be aligned from under the sump plug and extending outwards towards the outside of the car as the spurt of oil will go in that direction to start with. As the oil level drops and the pressure reduces, the oil will arc out less until it is dribbling almost straight down from the open plug.

Once you loosen the sump plug and the oil starts to come out, get the plug out quickly at this point. Don't hesitate and or try to get the plug back in as you will only spray the outcoming oil everywhere. And I mean everywhere.

Later on when you refit the sump plug, I always wrap a piece of plumbers teflon tape (aka thread seal tape) around the thread of the sump plug to stop any chance of the oil weeping along the grooves.

And yes as Jose says, oil will most probably go everywhere you don't want or expect it to go.

20/50 gets used here and I sill adhere to dinosaur brand Castrol because I grew up with the 'Oils aint oils' adds. Sentimental but no reason to change.

Cheers and good luck,

Nigel

 

Here is a basic run trough of an oil change on a series 3 engine in a series 1 car.(with step by step pictures)
Peoples opinion or routine may differ from mine, but we all do things a little bit different.
The oil for your climate may differ from what we use in Australia.Click on link below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...inners-141966/

 

Here's a video that gives you a rough idea of the task. It's for a latter model car, though. On yours the oil filter is on the other side.




For a simple oil change you'll find drive-on ramps to be more convenient than using a jack and jackstands. Plus, they're safer for a newbie....as incorrectly placing jackstands can be dangerous, as mentioned. Here's an example of some good quality ramps...

Hopkins 16000 lbs. RhinoRamps Max 11912MI - Read 3 Reviews on Hopkins #11912MI

Most auto parts stores sell a 12,000 pound rated version of these ramps....which is perfectly OK for your car and a bit less expensive.


If you want to become a DIYer then changing your own oil is as good a place to start as any. After you've done it a couple times it'll be less messy as you'll refine your technique, so to speak.

Cheers
DD

 

Yes, a confluence of the foregoing will get you on the way.


1. Ramps are my preference. But, Chock the rear wheels. Park + hand brake as well. Safety is foremost.


2. I find 20/50 in non synthetic is just fine all year around here.


3. As does Doug, any of the recognized brands so just fine. Get the bargain deal.


4. As good a task as any to get familiar with the care of your Jaguar.


5. The only draw back is the disposal of the old filter and drained oil
filter. But, that is indeed feasible.


6. Gather the oil, filter, tools, time and place to do the job.


Carl


Carl

 

thanks to all, especially to Jose

 

Hello this is the Oil they gave me at the shop, is it ok for my Series III ?
thanks

 

Perfect!

 

wow thanks!

 

You will need 9 Litres of oil (19.5 pints/ 9.5 Quarts). It will be a lot cheaper to buy it in 5 litre bottles.

 

oh thanks. I thought 8.5 quarts would be enough

 

It takes 8.25 litres (8.7 quarts) to just below the full mark on the dipstick, I just round it up to the next litre.
But buying in 5 ltr packs you always have that little extra on hand if a top up is needed between oil changes.

 

Series III XJ6s have two different oil capacity specs according to engine number. It'll be 8.2 litres, as mentioned, or 8.8 litres. I can't remember the break points off hand. Easiest thing is to begin with 8.2 and than the extra .6 if needed.

Cheers
DD