Bleeding brakes by yourself.

If you are about to buy another magic gadget because you need to bleed the air out of the brake lines of your favorite buggy ( and you think you need another person to help you).. read on. Here is a cheap fool proof way to do it by yourself.

First, MAKE SURE THE CAR CAN NOT ROLL BY ITSELF. Chocks at the wheels !!

Use a small jar,..(a clean mid sized peanut butter jar?) one third full of clean brake fluid.

Then attach a 10 foot section of clear 1/4 inch plastic tubing to the bleeder valve.

With one end attached to the slightly open bleeder - (slip the end over the bleeder and make sure it is a tight fit over the bleeder so air can not enter the tubing) and, the other end submerged in the jar of fluid (1/3 filled).
(Use some tape or a spring clip to secure the tube to the jar with its end below the surface of the fluid).

As you pump the brake pedal (master cylinder full) you will be able to see the brake fluid coming along inside the tube (advantage of clear tubing) mixed with some bubbles. Eventually there will be no bubbles (do not let the fluid in the master cylinder get too low -keep an eye on it as you slowly press and release the pedal , over and over.. replenishing the fluid in the master cylinder as necessary until you see clear, clean fluid coming through the brake lines)

Note: keep the end of the tubing submerged in the jar.

Having a 10 ft section of hose allows you to place the jar in a location where you can see the fluid in the tube as it empties into the jar.

Once you have "no bubbles" situation, in the fluid coming down the tube, close off the bleeder valve.

Start with the brake bleeder valve furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way around the car to the brake closest to the master cylinder. Do it all again if there is the least bit of sponginess at the pedal.

Hope this helps someone.

BE SURE TO CLOSE ALL BRAKE VALVES TIGHT AFTER BLEEDING AND BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE TUBING..

 

I've tried this method and it doesn't work for me.
I've not been able to get the firm pedal I expected.

It seems to me the staccato fluid flow allows air to re-coalesce in high spots between pumps. Also I think air get sucked past the threads during the pedal return even though you are supposed to keep the reservoir of fluid higher than the bleeder.

I've had more success with using a mighty-vac. The suction on the mighy-vac keeps the fluid moving constantly and consistently which helps with removing all the air bubbles. It's quick and works for me.

 

gravity bleeding works well.

 

Yes the key to the method I use is NOT to open the bleeder too much. Just a bit ,..if you open the bleeder too much, it will leak air past the threads and show bubbles in the line. The air bubbles in the caliper will be pushed out. But then the air bubbles in the line throw off your judgement anyway as to whether the caliper has been fully bled or not. Bleeder valves that are not deteriorated work best. Or a bit of grease around the point where the bleeder valve threads contact the caliper will stop the air bubbles from forming as it gets by the screw threads..

 

Used the Gunsons pressure bleeder for years with no problems.
Many ways to skin a cat! or bleed one..

 

No ... they're Jaguars ... you do the bleeding ... from the hip pocket.

 

Bleeding quite a lot at the moment. Hemorrhaging is more like it!

 

alynmurray ,

Good write up , simple , easy to understand and easy to use

I think you have helped a lot of people out there .

Not sure why you would start bleeding furthest from the Master Cylinder though ?

 

The idea is to minimise the risk of old brake fluid contaminating the new as you bleed each circuit. The longest route will have the most "common" routes, so these get flushed out first.