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Outside winter Storage - HELP

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Old 10-28-2010, 02:12 PM
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Default Outside winter Storage - HELP

Hello,

I have a 1985 Jaguar XJ6 VDP and I leave it outside. Now, before you draw and quarter me, I don't have a garage, nor do I have access to a garage. Last year, it was stored outside and the battery died. I started it a few times through the cold weather, but eventually, it was just gone. A fresh batter in the spring and the car fired right up.

I have a cover for the car, but is there anything else I should do to it - i.e. stabil in the fuel tank, unhook the battery, etc?

Your help is greatly appreciated! I am definitely not looking forward to the cold this year, but I guess it's not supposed to be as bad as it was last year.

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:34 PM
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Im not sure how cold it gets in your area of the country, but I would definitely add Stabil and disconnecting the battery might not be a bad idea.

How often do you drive the car in the winter??

I actually bought something which I found at a boating store but its sodium crystals of some sort and it absorbs any moisture so it prevents mold and rust from forming when it sits. Its fantastic stuff!
 
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:23 PM
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Alex,

I'm in the Detroit area, so usually stays between 35 and 40 degrees for most of the winter, but we've been known to have stretches of teens.

I know of Stabil from having classic Mustangs in the past, but those were always parked indoors. I never drive the Jag in the winter. Last year I was kind of sick so I didn't get a chance to start it and run it as much as possible. I don't want to tie a cover down and not be able to access the car to keep it running. But, I guess if I remove the battery, I should be ok. I just hate the initial spark when I go to reconnect it, haha!! (Yeah, I'm kind of a wuss.)

Thanks,
Scott
 
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Old 10-29-2010, 07:05 PM
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Put a good coat of wax on it, slightly overfill your tires by 5-10 psi, add some stabil to a full tank of gas then drive around a bit to get it up to the injectors. Change your oil. Check your coolant and all other fluids. Buy yourself a battery tender that you can run out to the car once a month (better yet a waterproof one). You can get them at virtually any motorcycle shop. Personally I wouldn't start the car at all. To get all the water out you would need to let it idle for well over 20 minutes, otherwise you leave water in your engine and tailpipe. Depending on how long it was going to sit I'd think about adding a dab of oil to the spark plug holes but wouldn't bother for 3-4 months. Idling that long is rarely good on any car. I've had luck with a box of baking soda and a water absorber made for RVs at keeping any musty smells down. I'd also be somewhat careful on a cover, just make sure it is in good shape, tight and breathable.
 
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:18 PM
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Yeah than stabil should definitely do the trick.

In some areas where the climate is really frigid, you would want to change your mixture of anti-freeze.
 
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:06 PM
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Thank you for the advice. The coolant is perfect - just did that a month ago. Probably needs an oil change, just to be safe.

The wax isn't going to be a problem - the paint is so rough that it just wouldn't do anything, haha.

Thanks again! I will work on this stuff over the next week or so. It's going to be in the 50s for the next week, so I will drive it a few times before putting it to bed.
 
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:36 PM
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Benebob has some sage advice there. Being from Canada originally, I've seen the misfortunes of storing cars outside first hand. Snow weight WILL cause coil springs to shatter under the load and tear off a fender (wing?) with a noise than sounds like a cannon. Make sure the snow is cleared off it regularly.

Fresh engine oil is always good because the acidity level increases with age. I would just take the battery out of the car altogether and store it in the house.

As for the fuel tanks, yes a fuel stabilizer is a great idea, but fill your tanks first. Airspace on top leads to condensation and corrosion.

Go to the shopping center and get a couple packages of Damp-Rid. Like they said it will keep excess moisture out of the interior and (hopefully) molds too.

For the first start after storing, disconnect the coil and crank in short spurts until you see oil pressure on the gauge.

Let me know if you need anymore help.

Jeff
 
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:24 PM
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I too am storing outside in the Toronto, Ontario area. We will see very cold weather and snow. I have removed the battery, had it Krown rust protected before it was covered, stabil both tanks, damp rid in the interior. I mean to increase the tire pressure as it will not move till spring.
All fluids checked, antifreeze is good.

Just wondered as someone mentioned this, should I leave a couple of windows open a crack under the cover for a little ventilation ??
 
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:49 AM
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If you can I would say leave a battery tender on the vehicle. If not leaving it unplugged is a good idea.

I also find that the oil is a good idea and do a quick change after the winter is over. Oil and Filters are cheap where as motors are not.

The last thing I used to do on winter stored vehicles (dont own a Jag yet) is pull the spark plugs and spritz some oil into the cylinders. Then I turn it over a few times. Then I put the spark plugs back in and let her fire up for a few minutes.
 
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:06 PM
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There is a fogging spray oil that can be sprayed into the intake with the engine running to lubricate and protect inside the cylinders. Or you could spray it in the spark plug holes.

I'm not sure leaving the windows open would make a positive difference. Maybe. But the car interior will probably be vented through the climate control system anyway. The air comes in through flaps in the cowl at the base of the windshield.

If you can, it would be a good time to apply some leather conditioning oil like the Rejuvenator from Leatherique or Connolly Hide Food, since the dry winter air is not going to help the leather, and it may as well have some time to soak up some oils.

Jaglovers guys from Canada always talk about using Waxoyl on the car body to prevent rust in the hidden cavities by spraying it into drain holes in doors, fenders, rockers, etc. The professional places will do it for a fee, someone mentioned Krown. Or you can buy it and do it at home.
 
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:56 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. Yes I have used Krown on every car I wanted to keep. The Jag has been treated with it just before being put to bed for the winter. It is similar to Rust Check. Yes you can and I have a aerosol of the product for self application.
 
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:21 PM
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Well, I went to do the storage thing - I was going to drive the car one more time to a gas station, maybe about the block, and park it. Unfortunately, the car wouldn't start! The battery is fine, as the doors unlocked when I turned the key in the lock, but when I went to start it, I could hear the clicking noises but it didn't even try to turn over! Left it for a day, and the battery died. It's a brand new battery...going to take it out for the winter, even though it's useless right now.

My best bet is to push the car forward to get it out of my driveway, onto the pieces of wood it was parked on last year. And, then I can deal with it in the spring...maybe take it to a real mechanic.

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, nothing I can do right now, haha!!

Scott
 
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JaguarVDP1985
Thank you for the advice. The coolant is perfect - just did that a month ago. Probably needs an oil change, just to be safe.

The wax isn't going to be a problem - the paint is so rough that it just wouldn't do anything, haha.

Thanks again! I will work on this stuff over the next week or so. It's going to be in the 50s for the next week, so I will drive it a few times before putting it to bed.

Hey Scott,

I am a Jag owner as well and local here in Michigan. My car is garaged but the storage tips given here are fine for our weather.

On a side note, if you ever have any mechanical questions with the car let me know. I have done quite a few things to mine and have learned a lot about this car.
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:05 AM
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Thanks, sneal! Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the car started now. I don't know enough about working on cars - yet - to start piecing it together. I have all of the manuals and technical data on the car -- came with it. Unfortunately, I don't know how to read it, haha!

I may wait until the spring to work on it. It's cold, and I don't have a garage to keep me warm. I also have a lead on a mechanic in Southfield who works on these cars and is reasonably priced. He should be able to get the thing running - I hope!!

Where in Michigan do you live?
 
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:57 PM
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"The battery is fine, as the doors unlocked when I turned the key in the lock, but when I went to start it, I could hear the clicking noises but it didn't even try to turn over! Left it for a day, and the battery died. It's a brand new battery..."

That sounds like the starter motor not getting enough juice, flat battery after all me thinks.
 
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JaguarVDP1985
Thanks, sneal! Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting the car started now. I don't know enough about working on cars - yet - to start piecing it together. I have all of the manuals and technical data on the car -- came with it. Unfortunately, I don't know how to read it, haha!

I may wait until the spring to work on it. It's cold, and I don't have a garage to keep me warm. I also have a lead on a mechanic in Southfield who works on these cars and is reasonably priced. He should be able to get the thing running - I hope!!

Where in Michigan do you live?

Well as a point of reference, I knew NOTHING about Jags when I bought this car during the summer. However, I have found it somewhat simple to work on (for the most part). Actually, you have to appreciate the design of this car and the engineering that went into it. The suspension is something to behold....when its right.

What I have done to help orient myself is take a weekend advanced auto class at Washtenaw Com College. Essentially you bring in a project and during each four hour class the instructor helps you work through the repairs. This has allowed me to accomplish a lot on the car using the best tools available (theirs!).

I live near Ann Arbor in Manchester and work in Westland. Not too far from RO.
 
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:49 PM
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sneal, that is an excellent idea, even for someone who is fairly accomplished at DIY repairs. Nice to have tools, lift, and experienced help for 4 hours!

Scott, I just accidentally stumbled across this supplier of parts in Royal Oak:
http://www.alleuro.com/
Maybe they can help point you to some help too.

I used to live in Dearborn, and I don't miss that frozen tundra in winter.
 
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