Question: Should this 2A fuse be replaced with a 10A?

Next as mentioned, the battery died. Not sure of the cause but I expect it is from the fact that I haven't driven the car or run it more than about 15 minutes in a month and have been opening and closing the doors constantly while working on the inside. I have a charger. I set the charger up with battery in the car and ran the charger for about 4 hours but the charging meter (only led lights) didn't move up. This seemed odd so I took it off. It charged the battery up enough for me to verify the new radio worked but trying to start the car killed it.

I took battery out and it has screw in terminals. I am not familiar with how to put a charger on this type of battery having used post batteries only in the past. When using a charger is there an issue with doing it while the battery is in the car? If so, charging out of the car do you hook up the clamps as positive/positive and neg/neg or do you use a lead on the negative termnial and then pos/pos and neg -. lead-neg? If no issue charging in car, is the lifting eye on top of engine a good place to put the new from charger?

 

I'm not a fan of arbitrarily going to higher rated fuses. I'll say "no".

What year/series and model is this car? Is it a factory radio or aftermarket?



No issue.


Yes


Not sure what you mean by "....use a lead on the negative terminal...."


If you're asking if the engine lifting eye is a good ground point/negative point, yes, it is....providing the engine-to-body ground strap is tight and clean. But you can attach your charging leads right to the battery. Remove the battery cables from the battery first to make sure they are clean.

Cheers
DD

 

I would be very careful about Jumping the battery connections. In the past , if you hooked things up wrong you might toast the rectifier in the alt - alt will not charge then,..with a car that has a computer (as most do these days) a reversed connection might toast the computer as well.

Just about everyone who has owned a car understands the importance of doing this right... but most are not aware of how critical this procedure can be if the car has an onboard computer running things.

 

Yeah, screw in battery terminals are not my favorites. Fragile. You Yube
suggests fixes. I tried No luck.


But, you can charge the battery.


1. Just affix the camps from the charger to the small nuts in the cable ends.


2. Screw in bolts in the battery posts. Attach the battery charger clamps there.


I've done each. It works,


I've my doubts as to the heath of your battery, 4 hours puts on a :surface charge to the plates in the battery, Quickly eaten by the starter.


Load test needed.


Carl

 

The battery may be shot, but it has a sticker with date of 12/17 on it. I wanted to safely charge it and I don't know how dead it is. I wasn't timing the charging, just in the past after 3-4 hours on the indicator would have reached the 25% mark and it didn't. So, never having charged a battery in a Series III before, I wanted to ask before I potentially messed something up.

My plan then will be to charge it overnight and see if the indicator climbs. If it doesn't overnight, then the battery is shot.

I don't think it is though because the car had no problems with battery power until I couldn't start it for two weeks while at the same time leaving interior lights on a lot.

 

Any advice about the in line fuse? I have the console apart and would prefer to put a new fuse in that won't blow (if that's what I should do) now rather than to have to take it all apart again.

 

Its an aftermarket radio. Going in a 1984 xj6 vanden plas

 

If this fuse is indeed blown, you have an overloaded circuit. If that circuit is overloaded a bigger fuse will only make a lot more smoke and melted insulation (with possible damage to the car) before it too blows.

You need to find what that red fused wire is for, why it was added. Then you'll have accurate information and more of it.

Much of the stuff in the console can be exposed while driving with little or no trouble (just don't let NTSB see it). I drove my car like that for a couple weeks until I was sure everything worked as it should.
(';')

 

Perhaps I haven't been clear. Let's put the Battery aside for now. I think I have a plan for it.

The red wire is both sides of a fuse holder that contains a 2A fuse. I put my new radio in all connected up properly and turned the ignition to the accessory position. No lights on the radio. I then located this red wire with the fuse. Took it apart. I saw that the 2 amp fuse was burnt out. The old radio didn't work either. It could have been the fuse that had it non-functional. It could have been something else. In any case, I wanted a different radio. I replaced the 2 amp fuse with a new one. Turned the key to the acc position and the radio came on. So I am pretty sure that the fuse that was blown was the radio's fuse. The new radio came with an in-line of its own. a 15amp fuse on the power line.

This (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cation-143024/) thread goes through radio fuses. Jose attaches a diagram in post 2 showing where the radio fuses should be located. I have searched and searched and cannot find those fuses anywhere. The diagram shows them as red to purple and brown to yellow. Rather I have only found this one red wire that seems to work. Interestingly, in that thread there is a post describing where I found mine. Tar reports in post 19 "In my '87, the fuse for the radio is in fact under the console just ahead and left of the shifter. It was a two-amp fuse on a red wire. I read somewhere that newer radios do better with a 10-amp, so when I installed my Blaupunkt, that is what I replaced it with....Most modern radios have a 10-amp blade fuse in the back of the radio unit itself. I'm sure you've checked it already, but thought I'd mention it Andrew." What Wildman describes in post 5 is what I have found.

This thread (Stereo Modifications) states " "I'd installed a new stereo, and I had it turned up a bit, then switched to the cassette, and it just blinked out. After some probing around, I determined that it was the fuse between the stereo and fusebox, and located it roughly forward of the cruise control switch on the console (underneath the driver-side console ashtray). It will require that you remove the console veneer entirely. "I found the fuse wiretied closely to a bundle, as well as electric taped over the fuse housing to another line (dunno why -- I eliminated the tape when I was in there). I found a 2A fuse in there, but the manual calls for a 1A -- both of which are odd, given that the stock Jaguar stereo had a 10A fuse on it -- fused to that same power input as the inline fuse is on (as versus the ignition/accessory input which tells the stereo to wake up). I checked with the local Jaguar dealership and he said there shouldn't be a problem for that line to carry 10A, so I switched the inline fuse to a 10A and the stereo works fine."

My car is an 84. The old radio was one of the ASI models with the detachable face plate. This conflicting information is what I am seeking information on.

 

the radio wires you are looking for should be behind the left side (driver's) Heat Vent panel, there is a Yellow wire with fuse holder that is Memory (constant 12v power to the radio's memory), and the Red wire with fuse holder is Ignition Power to turn on the radio, because in the 1984 XJ, you cannot turn the radio on without turning the ignition switch to the Accessory position.

Maybe a previous owner wanted radio without the ignition switch and butchered the wiring.

the White wire-pink stripe with a fuse holder is the Antenna power wire.

I would not use such a high rating of a fuse, it could fry your wiring harness in a chain reaction, stick with the factory reccomendations. The wires have labels stating the amperage of each fuse.

I have the original 1983-84 radio installation instructions which show where the wires are, if you want them.

 

Thanks Jose. I have your diagram and referenced it in post 9. Those wires with fuses don't seem to be there. I cannot find them and I have the whole dash apart.

 

they are not behind the dash, they are behind the radio, and to the left of the radio cavity. It is one of two harnesses dedicated to the radio, one is for the power wires, the other for the 4 speakers. Two harnesses, two plugs.

if the plugs are not there, someone butchered the wiring but they cannot make the two harnesses dissapear completely, traces of the wires must be there.

 

Elinor:


Whether the console in NIX is open or closed is none of NTSB's durn business !!


I drove mine around quite a lot early on after the conversion with the right cheek and right scuttle open, Seeking to resolve speedo issues.
got close. Put the panels back on.


Carl

 

That was a JOKE, Carl!!
(';')

 

Oh, me!!! Gotta sharpen my joke senses!!!!


OTH, per your reputation, it might be in the FAA juridsiction !!!


And, yeah, NTSB busy in a fuss with the Tesla boss, Eldon


Carl

 

My reputation??
What reputation??!
(';')

 

Flying low!!!


Heavy foot.


Carl