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Yes, actually I loosened the top and the bottom a couple of times - took it over speed bumps faster than I normally would. Then took her back home and tightened everything up while full weight on the ground. NO, I don't want to do the job again. But it was satisfying!
Hello Bill, That part about the low oil light coming on while braking hard has me puzzled. How about trying a extra quart of oil in the crankcase? At the rear of the oil pan is a small flat bracket held on by four 3/8ths bolts. between the oilpan and the transmission is a sheet metal pan held on by four small 1/4 inch bolts. Your now at the fly wheel that has the torque converter bolts. 9/16ths head and you will need to counter hold with the big bolt on the front of the crank shaft.
I'm just going to throw this out there, guys. I use one of these to hold the flywheel, that lets you be in one place while you're laying on your back on a creeper. Dogs into the ring gear teeth, I can tighten flywheel bolts to spec using one to counter the torque wrench. This is a pic from Amazon, I got mine years ago at local parts house.
Yes Bill, That is the dust shield and Torque converter bolts. When you were using a stethoscope to identify location of noise, Was it towards the bulkhead or towards radiator? While warmed up and idling, Remove one spark plug cable from sparkplug. Does the knock lessen or worsen? reinstall cable and move to next. Did the extra quart of oil help oil light condition upon braking? Is the ignition timing correct?
Yes, using stethoscope and the sound was definitely at ter very rear of the oil pan. I'm in the middle of other projects on the car and have not done the pull the spark plug wire test yet, nor put in another qt of oil. The timing seems just fine.
I pulled the plate at the front of the transmission. And put a 5/8" offset wrench on the bolts, and put enough pressure on the bolts to turn the engine over. I would have thought if one of them was loose that I would have felt it. I had to put a fair amount of torque turning the engine with the wrench.
Quick update - I'm really still gathering data on both the rapping noise problem and the oil light problem. The oil light has only gone on a couple of times since the bottom end rebuild. And has seem to gone away the past week. The knock, knock, knock-in sound has greatly diminished since the bottom end rebuild but not totally gone away. Other that testing the looseness of the transmission bolts that Larry suggested, I haven't done any further troubleshooting there yet. Life has gotten in the way. I did bring my car to the local Jaguar fix-it place to schedule a front end alignment for the end of the month. The Service Manager came out and DROOLED all over my car! And was very impressed that I did all that work by myself. Of course he has a Sales streak in him, but it felt good anyway. I aligned the toe-in via the string method and the car tracks straight with the steering wheel straight. I don't detect any tire wear, so I'm still driving it. Definitely the caster feels off - wheel doesn't snap straight as quickly as it used to before the front end rebuilt. But I'm sure with shims they will take care of that. I didn't put any shims back in (I saved them though). And to Lnr's recommendation got a kit for the inner upper A-arm shims. Although I found I had to use my grinder to shave them to fit. So I built a collection of shaved upper shims in case the front end alignment guy doesn't have any that fit. I may be over-thinking that but, also maybe not. I don't know when the last time was they aligned a 1970's Jaguar. They are a "European" fix-it place. So they see lots of different species of cars.
Good Job, Bill!
Yes, they do Drool over these cars, don't they! What a change from the nondescript cookie-cutter vehicle that normally graces their establishments. And they're Always impressed (sometimes incredulous) that we've done the work ourselves!
I have found it's Always a good idea to take along any odd or mysterious parts, like the shims for example, because as you mention, they may or may not have them on hand. If we take some along, No Question!
(';')
Yes to taking spare parts like shims. But... I am also making copies of the appropriate pages in the Operations and Repair Manual for alignment, any spec pages, and an exploded view page of the front suspension. I don't doubt their competence and expertise, and don't want to **** them off. But I want the job done right, and not get charged extra for the time to go find all that out themselves. I will, of course be very diplomatic about it. For instance I have to tell them NOT to clean up any extraneous, enviable hand prints with a shop rag! For four years this black paint job has had NOTHING but microfiber treatment. And it's going to stay that way! Maybe I should supply that too?
I'm now prepared to wrap up this string for the moment. I've been to the foreign car fix-it facility, and they did a great job aligning the front end. And I wasn't too far off with any of my Rube Goldberg shim placements or string toe-out methodology. But at least now I know and have printouts to prove it, and the confidence I'll not be wearing tires out prematurely. So the front-end job was well worthwhile. And it rides over our stupid Florida speed bumps just fine. The oil pressure light never comes on anymore, and the analog oil pressure gauge never goes below 10lbs. The "knocking" sound is much diminished. I may do more troubleshooting there, but not a worry or concern anymore.
Thank you all for your support (both moral and suggestions), Larry's gifting, and pictures. It was a tough job, but I'm proof that with the Forum's help and some reasonable wrench turning skills ANYONE can tackle these jobs and keep our fine cars running properly.
It was a tough job, but I'm proof that with the Forum's help and some reasonable wrench turning skills ANYONE can tackle these jobs and keep our fine cars running properly.
I often say under my breath, "If I (a mere woman) can do this, Anyone can do this!"
Good Job!
(';')
Somewhere i read< i think, that the converter is part;y held tpgeter by tivetss. Caveat, i could be well off track. if those rivets loosen,. te noise would match your suymptos.
But, what to do? In my vire/ research, then fporget t. No harm other than a rattle.
Just read up on what the function of the torque convertor is. Very interesting! Does the torque convertor share the transmission fluid with the transmission? Or, does it have its own encased transmission fluid?
Shares.
So, when you lunch the trans for whatever reason, filling the pan with shards and filings, you also have filled the TC with shards and filings, which will subsequently recirculate through the whole system upon trans "repair", IF you haven't:
a) cleaned the TC *Very* well (nearly impossible in my experience) or
b) just chuck it for a new one.
(';')
