I need to have my ignition switch rebuilt.
The manual says the steering lock is secured to the upper column by two shear bolts that need to be drilled out. The bolts are at the top and back of steering lock.
Does any one know the trick to getting to them short of removing the steering column?

 

Thanks for the text messages Grant Francis, and Dr Phill.

It turned out impossible to get to the second screw with the steering column in situ, even with the top bracket undone and column lowered. The back screw is behind the mounting bracket facing the engine. (possibly now knowing what it looks like and how easy it was to remove on the bench I could do it without eyeballing it)

I now know how to remove the column and graze knuckles. Once out the one remaining shear bolt was easy to remove with needle nose pliers.

A bit of working the switch with WD40 got it moving again (actually I didn't mention the reason for removal). The barrel was jammed solid and no amount of persuasion was giving me any movement of the key.
Foolishly, I tried turning the wheel and moving the key only to lock the steering as well.

Seems to be working fine now on the bench, WD40 is usually my first port of call but neglected that step for some reason today and proceeded to dismantle the dash.

Thoughts are now while I'm in there I will send it for a visit to the locksmith anyway for a once over since it is date stamped 1972.

 

Well done.

The truth is you were bored, and wanted something to do on Fathers Day, HA.

 

yep, needed a job to do wearing my new slippers without wearing them outside.

 

Whew, the hard way there!!! But, if works, it works, as good as it gets.


I was there recently, failing electrics in my original switch. Those little 'breakaway bolts are fiddly. Fortunately, the ones in my car were just snug.


With a huge dose of luck, I made a tool. A smaller size wire nut just fit the shoulder of the broken away breakaway bolt. Interesting phraseology, but accurate!!


Thumb and finger OK fro the front one. Out, easily. Back side not so much. Lack of leverage/torque. More phraseology! I drilled a small hole in the sire nut, perpindicular to the hole in it. I inserted a nail for a handle. It gave way easily.


Although unbroken breakaways are available, I selected Allen head bolts. I don't expect thieves going in there!!!


And, oh yeah, my David Boger sourced NOS works so much better, mechanicly and electicaly. So much is touted through them


Carl

 

"Foolishly, I tried turning the wheel and moving the key only to lock the steering as well."

sounds like something I would do

I like the last shot, it looks like there has been a small explosion in the drivers seat. You going to do some lighting updates as well or is that done already?

 

Happy with the original lighting at the moment. if I decide to do a lighting upgrade later the gauges are easy to remove anytime.

 

Ok, turns out the inside of the lock is pretty well worn out but Dr Phill has given it the magic touch for now.
Before I re install the original I will try to source a replacement.
I have a complete series two steering column with wheel,lock, and keys available from the same car I got the rims from recently.

I have been told by one Jaguar parts supplier that series 2 lock will fit but goes upside down because the series 2 is on the right side and series 1 goes on the left of the column. Can anyone confirm this?

 

Looks like answer is no, it won't fit.

 

Clarke, I had to change the ignition lock on my work truck (74 Dodge only 8 years newer than Nix) a couple years ago, but it's on the column. That was a Lot of fun I tell ya, NOT! After that I've been Very careful of the load of keys I hang from Nix's lock.

If I have any trouble I'll shoot the whole mechanism with WD-40 as you recommend; probably would try that anyway but it's nice to have confirmation from an experienced 3rd party.
(';')

 

Got the old working for now to get out of trouble for All British Day on the 18th. Will put it back in Thursday.

I picked up good condition one from Peninsula Jag Engine Centre for a couple of hundred(that seems to in the ballpark of prices if any are available).

Won't get down to to pick it for a couple of weeks as it is a 3 hour round trip. But always a great ride. Will cost more than a courier but a hell of way to fill a morning riding with a mate or two.

 

Your on the money with price Clarke, couple of hundred is ok. I have been told they are available new for over $500......

 

I can confirm that, Jagdaim can do a new one for $450, Jagayre secondhand if they had one $220, Pretige Jag around the same and AJG Jag/Jeep/Land Rover spares was $250. But none of them had anything in stock.
Plenty of S2/3 ones available though.

Thank you Jim for making the enquiries around Sydney for me.

 

Whew, I sure am glad my car is an S3!. And the one from David Boger a really good deal.


The one in the pic complete with a bunch of keys looks like an excellent result.


LnrB:


Yeah. I should shrink my key ring. At least two or thee keys that I don't use.... What do I need? Two for the house. One for the Jeep.
Oh, and four for the Jaguar. Ignition and door are now different.


But, the new switch over load or not should outlast me and the car.
The former more likely....


Switch, starter and battery travails in the past, it cranks right up and purrs. "Knock on wood". This industrial work table has none, but the repurposed kitchen cabinet does, so...


Carll

 

In my 1984, I replaced the two shear bolts with normal bolts and flat and lock washers, so I can adjust the torque of the bolts to eliminate the up-down play of the lock and switch assembly which was very annoying to say the least.

 

Refitted the old lock today, only to find it would fire up but cut out as soon as I let the key return to the on position.

Note to self, plug tacho back in to complete circuit. One plug and back to running.

I thought it would be a smart move to leave the tacho and speedo out until I had it running just in case I had to get to the steering column mount behind them again.

 

It's good you got it working. Now you can go play at All British day!
(';')

 

Left, righy, up, down! too much variables for mr to comment. USA vs Australia issues
Carl

 

Fitted the new steering lock today, good thing was I didn't have to drop the steering column to remove the old one. But had to remove the air con ducting and controls to fit the bezel. I could have manipulated it in and left one screw out of the bezel but I don't work like that.

The new one is possibly off an earlier series 1 and different to the old one. So a bit of moving around looms etc to make it fit the space. I decided removing the air con bits was easier than the gauges and column.....as usual the "while you are in there" thing got to me and 5 hours later I was finished.

The dealer fitted(from new) air con duct just overlapped the plastic bezel.

Only thing I don't like is new one doesn't have roman numerals for the key positions.

 

Are the I.II and II needed? I guess Jaguar and others decided they were not.


Accessories, run and crank?


As the key on my Jeep is on the column and perpendicular to it,
any markings would be useless.


Twist and release. It works or it doesn't!! Up, down, right, left avoided!!!


Started play with my "new to me" old SONY 1.3 digital Cameras. Not the same, as I thought !!!!


But, I now have a charger and three fitting lithium batteries and a charger. One battery seems to have taken a charge. One camera lit up, in movie mode? Selection not yet understood???


Two football games. Rain out. I'll watch and mess!! Multi task.

Carl