A very good friend just purchased a 1972 Jaguar XJ6

I have owned and restored a 1960 MGA and done significant work on a TR6. So basically I know enough to get in trouble.

I told her that I'd take it home a poke around for little while and make a list of notes so that when she took it to a reputable Jaguar person she could have some small modicum of confidence that if the mechanic said it needed it and it was on the list I gave her then things were kosher.

First question-Does anybody have a good Jaguar mechanic they'd recommend in SE Michigan?

Second question-Are there any particular things I should pay attention to?

In the short time I've driven it I've noticed that

a) it needs a comprehensive tune up. I'd recommend Plugs, wires, distributor, condenser, points, ignition coil, valve adjustment, tune and balance of carbs.
b) Oil pressure drops after its well warmed up indicating to me either a oil pump or bad bearings
c) It darts to the right when the brakes are put on relatively sharply. When getting a vintage car, I generally recommend a draining of the brake fluid, replacement of the rubber hoses, and new pads and rotors. Am I missing anything?
d) suspension is spongy.

I plan on doing a wet and dry compression test
Checking carbs/manifolds for air leaks
Checking carbs for balance as best as I can.

Anything else notable I should look into?

On the face of it, the car is in fantastic condition for being in Michigan.

 

Silly little question. Both the Drivers side and Passenger side doors don't close flush. They are off by about 1/4". A brief glance shows that the both the hook and the latch are adjustable. Is there a preferred one to adjust?

 

hi,
adjust the door jamb catch, 3/32" inch at a time, or what the heck, just move it 1/8" towards the inside. Otherwise it sounds like the door rubber seals were replaced with the wrong ones and the door cannot compress it enough.

spongy: get her new shocks, El Cheapo shocks is fine, Expensivo shocks don't last any longer. Ask me how I know.

Monroe Sensa-Trak shocks are very similar to the original Girling shocks ride and are inexpensive.

otherwise you have the idea of what it needs. Use 20W50 Castrol mineral oil, no synthetics. Then observe the oil pressure after changing oil & filter. Use a Jaguar oil filter.

why not do the work yourself?? these cars are easy to work on. One job at a time.

if the tanks are not leaking you are one step ahead. If she wants to spend a little money, replace the Jurassic Park-era air filter system with a pair of K & N pancake filters, one per carb.

for parts: try SNG Barrat USA store. http://www.sngbarratt.com/Home.aspx?b=US

 

Jose,

Thanks for the response.

Good call on the oil. This morning I noticed that she's running 0/40 wt fully synthetic. I'll have her change.

As for doing the work myself, I'm having trouble just keeping up with my MG!!

 

you welcome,

I had a feeling about the oil, the XK 4.2 engine does not like synthetic oil, it's too thin and watery. Why spend more on oil if mineral oil is superior.

but being a 1972 (likely built in 1971) you can't expect a lot of oil pressure either.

also if the history of the oil pressure sender (located at the of the oil filter Head) is not known, I would replace it with a new sender, not a lot of money, it's probably clogged or just worn out.

yeah, my first car was a 1969 MG-B, I remember it was a lot more hassle than my Jags have ever been.

 

Does anybody know what the current transmission fluid recommendation is for this car?

 

over here the standard seems to be Dexron 3. Mine is running it and it works fine.

 

Hi,

In Australia Castrol sells Transmax Type F Transmission Oil which is perfect.

Look for products which are specifically designed for 'older' ie. pre 1987 European Cars as many makes shared the Type 66 in different guises

Cheers,

Nigel

 

Darting to the right when brakes are applies may indicate sticking caliper pistons.

 

Engel Imports in Michigan, finally remembered the name. I purchased oem parts from them back in the early 1990's. Referred by my mechanic. They should know who works in Jags.

Jaguar Parts, New Jaguar Parts, Discount Jaguar Auto Parts, XJ6 XJS XJ8 XJ40 XK8 XJR

 

As to brakes, usually a new set of quality pads is all that is needed. If the rotors are unscored, not turned too far down, and unwarped, they will do the job just fine.


As to the HT system. Do the light show test. Run the car at night with the bonnet open. Bad HT wires will be apparent.


As to spark plugs, unless this is a V12 car, easy to remove and inspect. If in doubt, replace. Much to be gained by proper plugs in good shape and properly gapped.


As to the carbs. Yes, a decent air filter does a lot. Dirty ones mess things up good.


Carl

 

For oil you can also use 15W40, which was a recommendation for later XJs.

If you need to replace the lower front balljoints, don't bother with the old-type adjustable ones. Fit the non-adjustable Lemforder ones introduced with the XJ40 saloon, They retrofit all the saloons except the Mark VII/VIII/IX. If you find you have the old type and they're worn-out, then you'll need to knock out the bearing ring for the ball joint from the hubcarrier so the new Lemforders will bolt on. The uppers are already non-adjustable, and there is also a Lemforder joint for these. Neither of these joints are expensive. Worn joints will wear out tyres quickly as I found out in the late 80s !!

 

This is so true. It's also the information that Jag mechanics don't want you to know!