Rusted overflow tank, looking for a cheap alternative!
Hi,
After starting my S2 for the first time in years I figured I best fill her up with fresh coolant and oil before running it any longer. I took the overflow tank out as it looked pretty rusty and thought I'd clean it up first.

Unfortunately after shaking a handful of nuts around in the tank for a few minutes and flushing it out it was obvious the rust had taken over....it was leaking like a sieve
I looked around online and found a s/s replacement but is over $200!! I'd prefer to find a cheap second hand one I can clean up and use but so far I've been unable to locate one.
Does anyone know of a good source for parts in QLD, or Australia, or worldwide that's affordable?
Or has anyone had any experience in swapping this unit out for a generic overflow reservoir?
Cheers,
Dan
After starting my S2 for the first time in years I figured I best fill her up with fresh coolant and oil before running it any longer. I took the overflow tank out as it looked pretty rusty and thought I'd clean it up first.

Unfortunately after shaking a handful of nuts around in the tank for a few minutes and flushing it out it was obvious the rust had taken over....it was leaking like a sieve

I looked around online and found a s/s replacement but is over $200!! I'd prefer to find a cheap second hand one I can clean up and use but so far I've been unable to locate one.
Does anyone know of a good source for parts in QLD, or Australia, or worldwide that's affordable?
Or has anyone had any experience in swapping this unit out for a generic overflow reservoir?
Cheers,
Dan
Hi Dan, Try AJG spares
AJG Spares | New and Used Car Parts for Jeep, Jaguar, Land Rover and Range Rover models
Allen knows what he has and knows what you are asking for on the phone. I have been buying Jeep parts off him for years. He only does Jeep,Jag and Land Rover, a small 2 man shop. He has just relocated from Brisbane to Esk(1.2 hours west), Guessing he will post. If not, and he has what you need let me know and I will take a run out there Thursday and get it couriered to you. Any excuse for a ride ,lol.
This guy went in an on a Saturday afternoon for me to get a starter motor for my XJ6 the day after I picked it up.
Another to try is a bloke called Rich,044908072(text only,he never answers). He works out of a small industrial unit 5 minuets from me,wrecks 1 or 2 cars at a time. A couple of weeks back he had Series 1 or 2 on the hoist,couldn't tell because the boot was missing.
Series 1 and 2 have a different overflow tank by the look of your pic.
Where are you located Dan, I got the feeling you were in Sydney.
AJG Spares | New and Used Car Parts for Jeep, Jaguar, Land Rover and Range Rover models
Allen knows what he has and knows what you are asking for on the phone. I have been buying Jeep parts off him for years. He only does Jeep,Jag and Land Rover, a small 2 man shop. He has just relocated from Brisbane to Esk(1.2 hours west), Guessing he will post. If not, and he has what you need let me know and I will take a run out there Thursday and get it couriered to you. Any excuse for a ride ,lol.
This guy went in an on a Saturday afternoon for me to get a starter motor for my XJ6 the day after I picked it up.
Another to try is a bloke called Rich,044908072(text only,he never answers). He works out of a small industrial unit 5 minuets from me,wrecks 1 or 2 cars at a time. A couple of weeks back he had Series 1 or 2 on the hoist,couldn't tell because the boot was missing.
Series 1 and 2 have a different overflow tank by the look of your pic.
Where are you located Dan, I got the feeling you were in Sydney.
Hey Clarke,
That's great, thanks for the info! Will try those contacts. I don't mind the run out to Esk, my god parents are out that way and is an excuse to load the wife and kids up for a visit
Ahh yes I need to update my details! I was living in Brissie, got a job in Sydney so lived West Sydney for 4 years and returned back to Brissie about 2 years ago.
Thanks again
Dan
That's great, thanks for the info! Will try those contacts. I don't mind the run out to Esk, my god parents are out that way and is an excuse to load the wife and kids up for a visit

Ahh yes I need to update my details! I was living in Brissie, got a job in Sydney so lived West Sydney for 4 years and returned back to Brissie about 2 years ago.
Thanks again
Dan
Ahh yes I need to update my details! I was living in Brissie, got a job in Sydney so lived West Sydney for 4 years and returned back to Brissie about 2 years ago.
I'm in Jindalee,just west of the city.
As the oflow tank is steel, I'd think about getting out my torch and solder!!
And, a vist to the wrecker would find a ton of different oflows in plastic.
Or a visit to the performance catalog or shop could come up with a snazzy aluminum one.
Most any tin can plus a soldering torch would make a great one.
Carl
And, a vist to the wrecker would find a ton of different oflows in plastic.
Or a visit to the performance catalog or shop could come up with a snazzy aluminum one.
Most any tin can plus a soldering torch would make a great one.
Carl
Hi Carl,
I do like the idea of trying to fix it myself. I've never done any soldering outside of simple electrical wire soldering.
Would a torch like this work to fill very tiny holes in steel:
BernzOmatic Pencil Flame Torch w/ Propane Kit I/N 5910211 | Bunnings Warehouse
And would I try to repair steel with rods like these:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/consolida...tick-_p5060061
Cheers,
Dan
I do like the idea of trying to fix it myself. I've never done any soldering outside of simple electrical wire soldering.
Would a torch like this work to fill very tiny holes in steel:
BernzOmatic Pencil Flame Torch w/ Propane Kit I/N 5910211 | Bunnings Warehouse
And would I try to repair steel with rods like these:
http://www.bunnings.com.au/consolida...tick-_p5060061
Cheers,
Dan
Last edited by eathernet; Jun 15, 2014 at 06:25 AM.
Yup:
That torch will be useful for other stuff as well.
You will need some flux as well. Google up solder flux or check the source for the stick lead on that link.
You will be using a technique formerly used by auto collision shops. "Leading".
1. Clean shiny steel. an acid bath followed by a baking soda bath to neutralize isd good, but not imperative. A wad of steel wool works well.
2. Heat the steel, heat the bar. dip in flux and daub it on. Wipe with steel wool ewhile hot. You've tinned the surface. Add a layer of solder, not too thick for this pupose and the pin holes should be sealed.
3. Clean with light acid followed by soda and wipe dry and ready for paint.
OR:
Google copper roof application technique. Not quite the same, but somewhat similar. They use a sweating technique kinda like plumbers do in copper tubing joinery
One of my old Fords had a top radiator tank that had a design flaw. It split along one seam. I used a torch and material like the one you found from time to time to fix it.
Once you get the hang of it, soldering metal can be quite useful.
Carl
That torch will be useful for other stuff as well.
You will need some flux as well. Google up solder flux or check the source for the stick lead on that link.
You will be using a technique formerly used by auto collision shops. "Leading".
1. Clean shiny steel. an acid bath followed by a baking soda bath to neutralize isd good, but not imperative. A wad of steel wool works well.
2. Heat the steel, heat the bar. dip in flux and daub it on. Wipe with steel wool ewhile hot. You've tinned the surface. Add a layer of solder, not too thick for this pupose and the pin holes should be sealed.
3. Clean with light acid followed by soda and wipe dry and ready for paint.
OR:
Google copper roof application technique. Not quite the same, but somewhat similar. They use a sweating technique kinda like plumbers do in copper tubing joinery
One of my old Fords had a top radiator tank that had a design flaw. It split along one seam. I used a torch and material like the one you found from time to time to fix it.
Once you get the hang of it, soldering metal can be quite useful.
Carl
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Well I can safely say, soft soldering is not as easy as I thought it would be!! I got there in the end but it too a few hours of prep and practice.
After cleaning it up, these were the sorts of holes I was left with:

I read you could use sand and distilled water to basically wet sand the inside of the tank and remove any rust. I gave this a go and it worked great.
I then rust killed the entire surface and primed the part I wasn't going to be soldering

Then I soldered the many, many holes and grinded/filed back the excess metal.

And lastly painted it up in rust gaurd gloss black. Didn't come out too bad in the end!

Now onto my next task of flushing the radiator out...
Cheers,
Dan
After cleaning it up, these were the sorts of holes I was left with:

I read you could use sand and distilled water to basically wet sand the inside of the tank and remove any rust. I gave this a go and it worked great.
I then rust killed the entire surface and primed the part I wasn't going to be soldering

Then I soldered the many, many holes and grinded/filed back the excess metal.

And lastly painted it up in rust gaurd gloss black. Didn't come out too bad in the end!

Now onto my next task of flushing the radiator out...
Cheers,
Dan
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