Well I started using my other tank and freakin rust issues like I thought. Had to clean that glass filter about ten times in 20 miles. What a BIT#@!!!
anyone got any miracle ideas to clean it out? I called the place that lines them and they are 8+ weeks out. I'm willing to try about anything if anyone has any ideas.

 

I'm glad I had that glass pre-filter in it. easy enough to unscrew, spray out with carb cleaner, and reassemble.

 

How about the local radiator shop? Many radiator shops do gas tank cleaning and/or refurbishing.

A pal of mine had rusty tanks but didn't wanna go thru the hassle of removing them (PITA). He flushed 'em with (get ready) a garden hose and got tons of loose crud out. Then he installed the pre-filters (as often mentioned by others here).

The first two filters clogged in a couple days. The second pair in a couple weeks. Third pair, three months. Fourth pair, six months. After that, no problems. He replaced the filters recently, on general principles, after several *years* of use, and they were easy to blow thru and no crud came out.

In total he spent about $120 in filters but it was a lot easier than pulling the tanks. It was a 'bodge' job that really worked.

Just a thought.....


Cheers
DD

 

I've been sorta doing the water thing it isn't a bad idea, I did it on one already. this one. but it's getting old to have to change/clean the filter. I took it to the local car wash that has a grease trap and emptied it out, filled it a few times. It is just driving me nuts to constantly clean the filter. the glass filter is pretty easy to clean, but as the gas gets lower in the tank the concentration of particles is higher, so I go less and less each time before I have to clean it. It's not so bad if I keep it above half, but thats only about 5 gallons of use.

I've been thinking to set up an air hose to go threw a smaller hose and blast it, in hopes that it will wip around inside of it and knock it all loose, then run the water threw it, but i'm not sure it will work the right way. then there's the "water weinie" same idea as the air but wiping around water.

I have two new filters coming, probably be here today that go into the tank. I'm not sure if this is the best Idea though. I'm thinking they will just get plugged and then I have to dump the rest of the gas out to clean that filter.

 

Hi Amaezing,

Periodically (once a year in a 'clean' system), I pour a 1ltr bottle of Methylated Spirits into any car gas tank of mine at the time of refueling.

A chemical reaction means that moisture in the tank, and some smaller particles of crud, get attracted to the Metho and then get expelled through the fuel lines into the induction system as the engine feeds itself whilst running.

Replace filters before this action, and check them after as well for fouling.

It's more of a keeping on top of things than a solution, but it will help in the long run.

Cheers,

Nigel

PS I love fettling older cars

 

That's a good idea, thank you. I will do that once I get this crud out.

BTW. I love fiddling with old cars also, this is the newest car I've ever owned and driven.

 

Funny, I'm going through the same thing on my '85 XJ6. I had been running it on just the left tank since I bought it because I had to get it home somehow. I had read how much trouble the tank switching valves could be so I decided I would just not deal with it until after I passed smog. After I did, and after I had fitted two prefilters, I finally tried the right tank. Result? After 10 miles I had fuel spraying out under pressure from the right tank cap. The top return valve had changed over but the source valve was stuck. Then I tested that valve. It was stuck, but after hitting it it seemed to come free. Then I was able to drive for about 100 miles on the right tank until its prefilter clogged up.

I have the replacement NAPA prefilter but haven't had time to put it in yet. If going to to be doing this 20 times maybe I should get one of those glass ones like you use, or at least install a shut off valve between the tank and the filter. In the meantime it's been back to the left tank.

Strange I didn't have this trouble with the left tank, but maybe it had always been used more. I did change the main fuel filter at one point (before I had the pre-filters) and the residue didn't seem that bad, less that 1/4 teaspoon of rust I'd say.

-mB

 

well today a buddy gave me a long skinny scrub brush and the use of his hose(major pressure). I rinsed it and scrubbed it from the drain plug for over an hour. It took about 3-4 minutes to fill it and drain it and scrub it. I did that about 15 or more times, I lost count at 9. now to get some alcohol and fill it up with gas and a quart of alcohol and see how it goes.

 

How easy are the drain plugs to access? I might have a go at mine this weekend. My right tank in my '84 has been bypassed altogether and has duct tape across the fuller! I have bills for flushing and relining from about 10 years ago so I'm guess the PO gave up the struggle at some point.

Fitting a filter before the pump is a good idea, will try that as well.

 

Simple. Right behind the rear wheel there is a 1 1/2" hole. There is a 14mm nut to drain the gas and a 19 mm but to access the in tank filter that is big enough to make it easy to access with the scrubber. But you have to work around the suction tube that is right in the middle(the filter goes around it,btw)
Like I said " simple"

 

Drain the tank before starting... jack up the rear end about 18 inches for room for the tank to be removed and inserted back into the hole.

You can buy new Spectra replacement tanks all over, then you will need a new filler cap gasket (four holes). The cap O ring and fuel sender gasket and a new sender ring comes with the tanks.

The hardest part is getting off the old filler cap... take out the four screws - lift the front with a long screw driver held over a rubber coated tool... lift
it up about 1/4-1/2 inch... then turn it side to side.. take off the rear cap vent hose by using a pry tool to push it to the rear. Put rust remover into and under the cap edges to free year of sticking... keep turning side to side and lifting without wrecking the paint and body work... when the cap is finally off... celebrate you are 80% done.

The rest is just removal, take off the curved side valance.. you may have to remove part of the bumper brackets... the major part that holds the tank in place in the long rod with a nut on the bottom. Leave it for last...remove the mounting bolts reached from the bottom... one in front and one in the rear... take off the vent line when the tank is finally dropped downward... loosen and remove the nut... remove the return line and fuel feed lines...the tank will then come down for access to the fuel sender wires and the top vent hose...

Reverse steps to re-install... leave the cap for last and do not tighten all the bolts up completely until the cap is in place with the new O-ring in
the upper opening and the new base cap gasket is in place. The fuel sender can be transferred while the new tank is out of when in the car (you will have to remove the tail light lens and bracket for access).

Can be done in about three to four hours if the filler cap will come out... be sure to put in new pre pump fuel filters...

 

Amaezing:


The cars had a rubberoid plug in those holes in the valences. Mine did. After laying fallow for a considerable time, I decided to drain the tanks. I destroyed both those plugs. Some say they can be removed intact, most say no. some offer substitutes, some skip 'em. I chose the latter. Any water that gets in there will slosh out. not much rain around here anyway.


There are two nuts, there, one within the other. I intended to remove the small ones only. Nope, the large ones came out. Lottsa gas to handle. I had tanked up before the engine debacle near Stockton, CA.


So far, my fueling system is working just fine.






Carl

 

I had that happen to me the first time I did it also. One heck of a mess

 

For you or the Jag???

 

Both of us!!!!

 

Yeah, share and share alike is proper. I do that with Coco, my rescue mutt.


Carl

 

Using the garden hose idea seems to be working for me too.

A fair amount of dirt came out (destined to block that fine filter again).

 

Stop putting band aids on the real problem .. old rusty tanks.

If you actually change out those tanks that are now 30-40+ years old, using replacement tanks gets you one small drain plug. No strainer access nor a strainer but tanks made out of coated modern materials..

Nothing wrong with just getting rid of old rusty tanks every three or four decades... you end up with nice new shiny tanks with no rust... see the photo for the new drain plug.

 

I agree with new tanks, but I have other priority's in line first. Tires and A/C are at the top right now. But also to get a tank relined is sometimes better than a new tank. If they are done right then you will NEVER have rust issues ever again. But theres theres the trick, Quality workmanship!!! I think that is a dying art, almost a foriegn language nowadays.

 

According to the PO, Nix's tanks were coated at the time of conversion. They must have done a good job because both tanks are still holding gas. Very few care about doing quality work it seems. The few who do that I know of, are working out of a shed behind their house. They're the ones who work for the love of their craft. I found one yesterday to work on my small mower.
(';')