I'm trying to separate a complete rear bumper, but the two bolts that hold it all together behind the overriders were seized solid and after too much pressure one is now rotating, but I think I broke the anchor deep inside the overrider. Can't get a nut separator in there, should I drill out or is there an alternative way to undo?

 

I have the same problem. I hope someone has the answer.
Rob

 

you will have to find a way to slice the bolt, maybe a Dremmel tool or a cutting wheel. Are you referring to the overrider bolts? they always do that. In another car, I used a bumper bolt from the overrider thru the bumper.

 

The BD.38811 part breaks loose and rotates when you turn the ufb.137 bolt, and the loop pf chromed steel in the overrider with hole in for socket makes access with a bolt cutter or cutoff wheel inaccessible.I'm assuming I'll have to drill it out unless I can find something to slide into the darker recesses of the overrider to lock the bd.3811 anchor so I can get enough torque on the bolt...

 

Yeah, aka "captive" nuts. always deep in unaccessible recesses.


And drilling the stub is tough as it merely rotates rather than accept the bit!!


Decades ago, I bought a "retired" company car from my employer. Badly abused. So, I got a really good deal. The hood/bonnet had parted ways at speed. It had been hjeld to the hinges by bolts into captive nuts. A friend at a "black smith" shop helped me get the out and reestablish a connection of the hood/bonnet to the hinges. He found just enough room to wedge the nut and accept the drill. Once out welded in nuts just a tad larger. New bolts to fit and stronger than it was when it left Dearborn. The bonnet a bit scratched and burnt. but, I cleaned it up and the rest of the car and splurged on a pro paint job. From a boring white to Thunderbird red.


Carl

 

In desperation. Drill the over rider from the finnish side. Lock the nut,. Drill out the stub. fill the hoe with a chrome plug. Or go old tech, a bolt with a chrome head all the way through. Nut now exposed on the back side of the blade




Carl

 

ok, try to clamp bd38811 so it doesn't move. if you don't want to scratch the chrome with a clamp, use wood under the clamp feet.

 

You can't get anywhere near bd38811 with any kind of clamp as it's buried in the overrider. I think I'll have to bend up a piece of metal into a 'wrench' to slip inside the overrider, which is in good shape on the exterior with good chrome, so I can lock it and get a breaker bar on the UFB bolt...

 

You can't get anywhere near bd38811 with any kind of clamp as it's buried in the overrider, which is currently attached to the bumper. I think I'll have to bend up a piece of metal into a 'wrench' to slip inside the overrider, which is in good shape on the exterior with good chrome, so I can lock it and get a breaker bar on the UFB bolt...

 

You can't get anywhere near bd38811 with any kind of clamp as it's buried in the overrider, which is currently attached to the bumper. I think I'll have to bend up a piece of metal into a 'wrench' to slip inside the overrider, which is in good shape on the exterior with good chrome, so I can lock it and get a breaker bar on the UFB bolt...

Actually looking at the picture it's BD 32461 the overrider that has the captive nut in it. That must have broken off way back inside there.

 

You can't get anywhere near bd38811 with any kind of clamp as it's buried in the overrider, which is currently attached to the bumper. I think I'll have to bend up a piece of metal into a 'wrench' to slip inside the overrider, which is in good shape on the exterior with good chrome, so I can lock it and get a breaker bar on the UFB bolt...

Actually looking at the picture it's BD 32461 the overrider that has the captive nut in it. That must have broken off way back inside there. It's time like this I wish I had an induction heater

 

Can you cut the head off of UFB.137, then grind it back so it's just a stud?

 

One word !!!


Elegant.


Carl

 

yatchman just hit the lottery!

 

A bit time consuming, but put a ring spanner over the head to stop it spinning and drilled out the head to release.

 

For the record I have found a better method to release stuck over riders from the bumper.

First, prop the entire bumper up so the two side pieces are facing upwards. then pour 50% acetone 50% ATF into the two overriders and leave to soak in for a few days.
This may be enough to free up the hidden trapped nut deep inside the overrider. If you break off that hidden nut and it spins, a 3/4 inch short socket or better a 3/4 crowsfoot with a handle welded onto it at an angle so you can insert it will allow you to put more force onto the bolt against the trapped 3/4 nut to release it.