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Stake down kit

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Old 12-14-2018, 12:08 PM
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Default Stake down kit

I have a 1985 Jaguar Vanden Plas and have bought a pair of stake down kits. My question is do I have to remove the camshafts to install these kits or can I drill the holes with the camshaft in place?
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:22 PM
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no, you do not remove the camshafts, you need to be extremely careful drilling and making sure that nothing falls thru the oil holes. Tape everything, carefully isolating the area you are drilling into with rags and masking tape.
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:27 PM
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[QUOTE=Jose;2001051]no, you do not remove the camshafts, you need to be extremely careful drilling and making sure that nothing falls thru the oil holes. Tape everything, carefully isolating the area you are drilling into with rags and masking tape.[/QUOTE

Thanks😎
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 04:31 PM
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you're welcome.

why two kits? Normally you only do it to the Exhaust side, not the intake side.

Do the Exhaust side only and see if the ticking stops.
 
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Old 12-14-2018, 06:27 PM
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Hopefully the exhaust tappet buckets have not been damaged by the camshaft.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:56 PM
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Jose, I am a bit daunted about doing this stake down job myself. How do I find a mechanic who will do this job? All the mechanics I have taken this problem to say that they won't do it and I should find a machine shop. What do you suggest? Thanks, John
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 01:22 PM
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John I don't blame you, I had it done by someone who had done it already..

but you don't need a machine shop, the job is done by removing the exhaust side cam cover, that's all.

Where are you located? UK? USA?
 

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Old 12-31-2018, 02:21 PM
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Default Stake Down Kit

[QUOTE]​​jose, I live in Venice,CA
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 02:24 PM
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Default Stake down kit

Originally Posted by Jose
John I don't blame you, I had it done by someone who had done it already..

but you don't need a machine shop, the job is done by removing the exhaust side cam cover, that's all.

Where are you located? UK? USA?
I am located in Venice, CA.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:12 PM
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strange with so many Jag shops in California. There is one shop in San Francisco who did it recently for another member here. They charged him $600.00 I beliieve.

then there is Doug up north near Seattle I think.

Can you contact the Jaguar Club of Southern California and ask for help installing the kit?
Someone must know who can do it. It is really an easy job, but there is a lot of labor in keeping the area clean and the disassembly and reassembly of the cam cover / gasket which entails removing other stuff first.


.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jose
strange with so many Jag shops in California. There is one shop in San Francisco who did it recently for another member here. They charged him $600.00 I beliieve.

then there is Doug up north near Seattle I think.

Can you contact the Jaguar Club of Southern California and ask for help installing the kit?
Someone must know who can do it. It is really an easy job, but there is a lot of labor in keeping the area clean and the disassembly and reassembly of the cam cover / gasket which entails removing other stuff first.


.
Thanks, Jose. I will try the Jaguar Club.
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 03:48 PM
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if no help, contact George Camp at the TECH HELP line in the JCNA website. He will find someone near Venice.

jcna.com
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Jose
if no help, contact George Camp at the TECH HELP line in the JCNA website. He will find someone near Venice.

jcna.com
Thanks, Jose!
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 06:28 AM
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you are welcome and Happy New Year!

 
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Old 01-01-2019, 11:21 AM
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Usually the real "mountain" is less vaunting than the one in one's imagination.
I understand the average mechanic's reluctance to tackle the job. High risk low gain in the business sense.

Caveat:
I've never done this operation.. The good news is that it is alloy, not steel or iron that is to be drilled. Oh, and tapped as well!!

1. Check for an exploded view of the parts involved. It is a guide that should remain fixed and not move, but for who knows why, they get loose and move up and '"kiss" the camshaft!!

2. Determine the safe depth to drill. Mark the bit with a bit of tape. As Jose suggests, close off all openings to keep the swarf out.

I would add to daub the bit with a heavy grease to catch at least some of the swarf.

3. Use a top quality Cobalt bit that is super sharp. Dull bits wander. Sharp ones do not.

4. An average drill driver, corded or not will do just fine.


5. Do not be too lax. Bear down and cut metal. If not, you might make the material harder by a form of heat treat!!

6. Get comfortable, so as to control the drill... Odd positions create issues.

Go for it!!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

Carl


 
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Old 01-01-2019, 01:31 PM
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some of the stakedown kits come with self.-drilling bolts, a one way push Into after marking the hole with a punch so the bolt doesn't stray.

does your kit have those bolts with a pointed cutting tip? if yes, it is an even easier job. No drilling, no tapping, just a drill with a socket for the bolt head. And a vacuum cleaner.

When drilling, the drill bit needs to have a STOP gizmo attached so you don't drill too low. This is a ring with a hex screw tightened over the drill bit so it doesn't drill beyond the length of the bolt.

Carl, the idea about adding grease to collect swarf is very good.


 
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Old 01-01-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JagCad
Usually the real "mountain" is less vaunting than the one in one's imagination.
I understand the average mechanic's reluctance to tackle the job. High risk low gain in the business sense.

Caveat:
I've never done this operation.. The good news is that it is alloy, not steel or iron that is to be drilled. Oh, and tapped as well!!

1. Check for an exploded view of the parts involved. It is a guide that should remain fixed and not move, but for who knows why, they get loose and move up and '"kiss" the camshaft!!

2. Determine the safe depth to drill. Mark the bit with a bit of tape. As Jose suggests, close off all openings to keep the swarf out.

I would add to daub the bit with a heavy grease to catch at least some of the swarf.

3. Use a top quality Cobalt bit that is super sharp. Dull bits wander. Sharp ones do not.

4. An average drill driver, corded or not will do just fine.


5. Do not be too lax. Bear down and cut metal. If not, you might make the material harder by a form of heat treat!!

6. Get comfortable, so as to control the drill... Odd positions create issues.

Go for it!!!!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

Carl
Thanks, Carl and Happy New Year to you😎
 
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:32 AM
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John,

here's a picture of the finished installation of the stakedown bracket. I found it today in my pics album.

you can see it is very simple, 2 screws and one bracket pushing down on the tappets. Now that I know what I know, I would not pay $600.00 to get it done.

easier still if your kit has the self drilling screws as shown in this picture.


 
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:28 AM
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Great photo. Did I read that we can check to see if our cars have them by looking down the oil filer cap with a flashlight?
 
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:49 AM
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Default Stake down kit

Originally Posted by Jose
John,

here's a picture of the finished installation of the stakedown bracket. I found it today in my pics album.

you can see it is very simple, 2 screws and one bracket pushing down on the tappets. Now that I know what I know, I would not pay $600.00 to get it done.

easier still if your kit has the self drilling screws as shown in this picture.


Thanks, Jose. It does look very easy. The warnings about going too deep on the drilling and getting the angle of the drill just right scare me a bit. I will think about attacking this project a little more. Thank you for this great picture. John
 


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