XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III 1968-1992

Stake down kit

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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 11:40 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Yellow series3
Great photo. Did I read that we can check to see if our cars have them by looking down the oil filer cap with a flashlight?
yes, remove the oil filler cap, and use your cell phone flashlight to look in there. Also they sell flexible cable cameras with an app you can view in your phone. Check in Youtube.com for videos about it. .
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 11:53 AM
  #22  
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John,

what did your kit come with? self-drilling screws or drill bit and tap?

Aluminium is very soft to drill into.

Place the bracket over two tappets like in the picture, holding it tightly, you take a tool same size as the hole in the bracket and push it through the hole
to mark the hole.

Then you take a nail (or a Punch if you have a set of punches), and you place the point of the nail or punch in the center of the hole, then with a hammer, you tap the nail
so it makes a mark on the aluminum. That's it.

Then you prepare a drill with a suitable attachment for the self-drilling screw, and you place the point of the screw on the mark you just made.

Drill the screw a little pushing into the aluminium at the same angle as the cylinder head sits. It is not THAT SUPER CRITICAL, but you want the screws to enter at at least 99% of the angle.

Reverse the drill to remove the screw, and once you have created a thread for the screw, place the bracket over the hole, and drill the screw until it stops, then snug it a little more
with a socket and ratchet. You don't want to force it so tight, the screw will tell you when it stops. Do the same for the other hole and done.

If you look at the picture, those are self-drilling screws. I will take a picture of a self-drilling screw and post it next.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 12:38 PM
  #23  
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Default Stakedown kit.

Originally Posted by Jose
John,

what did your kit come with? self-drilling screws or drill bit and tap?

Aluminium is very soft to drill into.

Place the bracket over two tappets like in the picture, holding it tightly, you take a tool same size as the hole in the bracket and push it through the hole
to mark the hole.

Then you take a nail (or a Punch if you have a set of punches), and you place the point of the nail or punch in the center of the hole, then with a hammer, you tap the nail
so it makes a mark on the aluminum. That's it.

Then you prepare a drill with a suitable attachment for the self-drilling screw, and you place the point of the screw on the mark you just made.

Drill the screw a little pushing into the aluminium at the same angle as the cylinder head sits. It is not THAT SUPER CRITICAL, but you want the screws to enter at at least 99% of the angle.

Reverse the drill to remove the screw, and once you have created a thread for the screw, place the bracket over the hole, and drill the screw until it stops, then snug it a little more
with a socket and ratchet. You don't want to force it so tight, the screw will tell you when it stops. Do the same for the other hole and done.

If you look at the picture, those are self-drilling screws. I will take a picture of a self-drilling screw and post it next.
Thanks, Jose. The directions say to drill a hole first and then screw the self tapping screws in. You are saying that isn’t necessary because of the softness of the aluminum. That certainly makes it easier! Thank you. John
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 03:22 PM
  #24  
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My 2 cents:
Do not attempt to use the self tapping screw to make the hole. If you do, the self tapping screw may snap.
Drill a pilot hole 1/16 of an inch smaller that the diameter of the screw. (e.g. If the self tapping screw is 3/16",drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" drill bit.
Make sure the angle of the drill is equal to the plane of the cylinder head.
Measure the length of the screw and drill the pilot hole to that depth. Apply some grease to the drill bit to catch the bits of metal. Use rags to isolate the area being drilled.
Also note how clean the area is in the picture Jose posted. Duplicate that. It will make it easier to vacuum up the bits of metal created by the drill bit.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2019 | 04:04 PM
  #25  
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Default Stake down kit.

Thanks for the advice!
Originally Posted by sanchez
My 2 cents:
Do not attempt to use the self tapping screw to make the hole. If you do, the self tapping screw may snap.
Drill a pilot hole 1/16 of an inch smaller that the diameter of the screw. (e.g. If the self tapping screw is 3/16",drill a pilot hole with a 1/8" drill bit.
Make sure the angle of the drill is equal to the plane of the cylinder head.
Measure the length of the screw and drill the pilot hole to that depth. Apply some grease to the drill bit to catch the bits of metal. Use rags to isolate the area being drilled.
Also note how clean the area is in the picture Jose posted. Duplicate that. It will make it easier to vacuum up the bits of metal created by the drill bit.
Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 10:18 AM
  #26  
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yes John, do it like Sanchez says. Though it really depends on the type and hardness of the metal the screw is made of, better to be safe.

if you come by Florida, both Sanchez and I will help, and Sanchez will paint your car if it needs it.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 11:25 AM
  #27  
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I post this in kibitz mode. neither of my cars has need of this feature.

But, I've drilled and tapped many a time. I've ton of devices to do this with,.

A favorite is a set of trace punches via HF. Each with a different sized barrell. A a sharp point at the end. Used to locate the hole in a precise center. AKA centering punch.

In this task. Select the punch that just fits the hoes in the "hold down". Place the holds down in position. Insert the punch in the hole Whack it a good one. repeat for the other hole .

Now, you have a precise point to begin the drill process.

I second Sanchez' as to start with a smaller bit. Then enarge to size with the correct bit.

Caveat. Sharp bits. Dull ones make a mess....

Do it. It will engender a great feeling of satisfaction...

Carl . . .
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 11:37 AM
  #28  
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Default Stake down kit

Originally Posted by Jose
yes John, do it like Sanchez says. Though it really depends on the type and hardness of the metal the screw is made of, better to be safe.

if you come by Florida, both Sanchez and I will help, and Sanchez will paint your car if it needs it.
Thanks, guys! Does that paint job come with a cup of coffee?😎
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 12:22 PM
  #29  
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Yep. Jose is a good painter lol
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 12:54 PM
  #30  
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yes, Sanchez makes good coffee too! Stakes and Paint While U Wait !!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 05:35 PM
  #31  
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LMAO
 
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 07:20 AM
  #32  
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One last tip to keep the drill from drilling in too far. Measure how deep you want to go with the drill, then mark the drill bit with a piece of tape (or better yet, use a mechanical stopper) and don't drill past that mark.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 07:26 AM
  #33  
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yes, you can also get a set of "stoppers" at Harbor Freight Tools. They are little steel rings in different width sizes, each with a hex screw, that slip over the drill bit and you tighten the screw with the included hex wrench. Short of that, a piece of masking tape will do.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 10:27 AM
  #34  
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Default Stake down kit

[QUOTE=yachtmanbuttson;2017371]One last tip to keep the drill from drilling in too far. Measure how deep you want to go with the drill, then mark the drill bit with a piece of tape (or better yet, use a mechanical stopper) and don't drill past that mark.[/QUOTE)Thanks for the advice.]
 
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 10:28 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jose
yes, you can also get a set of "stoppers" at Harbor Freight Tools. They are little steel rings in different width sizes, each with a hex screw, that slip over the drill bit and you tighten the screw with the included hex wrench. Short of that, a piece of masking tape will do.
Thanks. I have a Harbor Freight close by.
 
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