When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The battle, my XJ6 Series 3 still ha e acceleration issue, pressing hard on the acceleration paddle stalls the driving and engine goes off.
The Jag mechanic have tried to figure out what's actually the issue but this is taking ages for this to be fixed.
Has anyone here experience such before?
how can I vet this solve so the car can perfectly drive with anyhow the accelerator would be pressed?
When you press hard on the pedal, the engine gets more air. Fuel must be added to maintain a combustible mixture.
I postulate that you have a fuel issue. Weak fuel pump. partialy clogged fuel filter.
I suggest that your mechanic connect a fuel pressure guage. Drive the car. repeat the episode. does the fuel pressure remain at 36PSI or thereabouts. I suspect not.
When you press hard on the pedal, the engine gets more air. Fuel must be added to maintain a combustible mixture.
I postulate that you have a fuel issue. Weak fuel pump. partialy clogged fuel filter.
I suggest that your mechanic connect a fuel pressure guage. Drive the car. repeat the episode. does the fuel pressure remain at 36PSI or thereabouts. I suspect not.
Flushed the gas tanks with garden hose. Replaced the fuel filter. This fixed the problem for a few weeks then filter clogged again. Tanks were not perfectly flushed. Flushed them again, installed new, smaller fuel filters on the outlet hose from each tank (so the dirty gas no longer goes through the fuel pump), and flushed out the main fuel filter with water (it worked!).
I have had to flush out the new mini filters once but the problem is now gone and I love my car again.
Flushed the gas tanks with garden hose. Replaced the fuel filter. This fixed the problem for a few weeks then filter clogged again. Tanks were not perfectly flushed. Flushed them again, installed new, smaller fuel filters on the outlet hose from each tank (so the dirty gas no longer goes through the fuel pump), and flushed out the main fuel filter with water (it worked!).
I have had to flush out the new mini filters once but the problem is now gone and I love my car again.
i will remove and clean the fuel filter tomorrow if that will help in case
The struggle is about to end as the issue with temperature sensor was resolved yesterday and not I could start the car with sensor connector fixed to the sensor. Tomorrow, I will try to check on the acceleration to confirm if that issue is also gone or would need assistance.
Further diagnosis the problem with my car with temperature sensor, this was very hard to determined the cause as practically demonstrated in the video below
Please am cleaning the car to fix the dashboard, I would appreciate if you could tell me what this attached photo item is because it beeps all the time when it's connected and battery is on the car.
Please am cleaning the car to fix the dashboard, I would appreciate if you could tell me what this attached photo item is because it beeps all the time when it's connected and battery is on the car.
Mike,
That's the Seat Belt Warning Logic Unit .... It should turn off when the door is closed and the seatbelt is connected.. You should be able to just connect the seatbelt without being in the seat, and press the switch on the door post for it to go off... Or just leave it disconnected while you are working.... If it sounds when the door is closed and seatbelt connected, it's faulty...
Cheers
David
Before you put the dash crash pad back on, it would be worth while to make sure your windscreen wipers work smoothly. Remove the tubes from the wiper motor and on to the left and right wheel boxes and give them a good de-greasing, also the drive cable inside. Good time to check/replace gaskets on the cowl side of the wheel boxes when you have them out.
Make sure the vacuum connections at the air flaps under the crash pad are all snug and in place.
Changing light bulbs in the gauges and double-checking connections are done more easily when you can work from both sides of the dash panel.
Before you put the dash crash pad back on, it would be worth while to make sure your windscreen wipers work smoothly. Remove the tubes from the wiper motor and on to the left and right wheel boxes and give them a good de-greasing, also the drive cable inside. Good time to check/replace gaskets on the cowl side of the wheel boxes when you have them out.
Make sure the vacuum connections at the air flaps under the crash pad are all snug and in place.
Changing light bulbs in the gauges and double-checking connections are done more easily when you can work from both sides of the dash panel.
Looking at your pics, it looks like it could be that open ended rubber tube which is protruding through the black metal bulkhead just to the right of the steering wheel.
It's a bit unclear, but if that is it, then you are missing the end assembly which includes said sensor.
Later, when you re install the dash pad, there will be a recessed place and opening in the pad for the end of it to 'feel' the temperature in the cabin which is where the delanair systems gets its internal reading from.
If the sensor isn't fitted or gets kinked / blocked from here until the end, your climate control temperature simply wont work, to the extent that you may get hot air when it is warn inside and freezing cold air when it cold inside as the system is taking a temperature reading from the open tube behind the dash instead of the area under the dash pad lip inside the cabin.
Nigel is on he mark and it is a PITA to get the sensor stuffed in the hole in
the dash pad without pulling the hose/tubing apart. Here's a partial picture that shows the rubber tube along the top of the dash frame. What is not visible is another metal tube extending from the end of the rubber one toward the right. I looks a little odd as it has a branch coming off of it with nothing in it. The main tube connects to the sensor which plugs into the hole in the round-over of the dash. All of the tubes tuck up into the back of the round-over as you are trying to maneuver the dash pad into place. It'll be easy.