Hopefully someone can help me. I have a 1979 xj6 series 3 and can't get the hood aligned properly. I removed the grill, hood springs, hood support, backed the hood hinge bolts out a bit and even removed the latching posts. Lined it all up, reached through the grill opening and tightened the hinge bolts. So far, all great. Put the springs and the support bracket back on and now the hood is way off to one side. Did this twice, still not even close to being lined up. I still have the latch posts out thinking that may be the problem. Can someone tell me what I am doing wrong? Thanks for your help.

 

do you mean the two pins with the springs are not on?

that could be the problem.

 

Yes, the threaded pins with springs that the latches engage with. They seemed to be clamping it down in a skewed position. So I removed them for the alignment procedure. Should I put them back in and try it Again? During one try one latch wouldn't open and I had to use a screwdriver in the access hole over the tire. Really appreciate your help, Jose.

 

you're welcome. I've never had to deal with the problem but the pins are there to align the rear of the hood.

what it sounds like is that one of the front springs is pulling harder than the other, so that when you close the hood / bonnet, it becomes misaligned.

If there is a way to remove the front hinge springs without getting hurt or creating any problem, I would remount the pins, and shut the bonnet first, (even if you have to open it with a screwdriver again), then install the front springs, (assuming it is possible with the bonnet closed).

what happens if you INVERT the front springs? does an opposite misalingment happen?

 

Years ago I had to realign a Series 3 bonnet (US=Hood). The trick is to make sure the latch pins contact the latch hole correctly then tighten. You can't do this with the springs in position, so you just put in the pins on their own, and gently lower the bonnet down, then align it so the pins are an exact fit into the latch hole. Once it's all lined up, put back the springs.

Other thing is - have you replaced the wings (US=Fenders) ? These need aligning to the bonnet before you tighten the securing screws.

 

On my US model, I have had to completely remove the front springs, and the hood lines up pretty well. The springs were pulling the hood up about 1/2 inch on the driver's side when it was closed, which must mean there's some unwanted play in the hinge, and I got tired of trying to figure out where it was.

I love the idea of removing the latch pin springs to align the pins, and I may try that to get it a little straighter. The driver side pin is slightly off. I've moved it by striking it repeatedly with a rubber mallet and praying that I don't bat it across the garage, but is there a better way? Does the contact point on the body slide forward and back?

 

Qualified success. Wish I could tell you I found the secret trick that does the job …. but then I would be lying. But I did learn several things that I can pass on.

1. It is extremely easy and safe to remove the hood springs. The thing to remember is the farter open the hood is the less tension is on the springs. So remove the hood restraint mechanism and maybe remove the grill, open as wide as you can, prop the hood open, reach in and grasp the top of the spring with small vice-grips and give it a tug. Comes right out; getting it back in is just as easy.

2. Don’t remove the hood latch pins. As a matter of fact, remove the hood springs, loosen the hood bolts and then adjust the hood latch pins so the hood latches easily, opens easily, sits flat etc. If the latch pin is bent or misaligned follow Fraser’s suggestion. So when this is accomplished the rear of the hood will be secured and positioned perfectly. Use that as an anchor and then work on getting the front aligned.

3. Use pieces of foam rubber to lift the front of the hood to the right level, and small wooden shims (available at Lowes or Home depot for $1.50) to center the hood so the gaps are even. Then tighten everything up. Now comes the creative part.

4. After you get everything tightened back up and the shims and foam removed, the hood will have magically become misaligned again. So, using the technique a marksman uses to shoot in a cross-wind, loosen everything up again and then using your foam and shims OVER adjust in the needed manner so when everything is tight and back together it hits the bullseye.

5. Yes, the hinges themselves have some slop in them and wiggle around. I have read they are bolted into the front of the frame rails and those bolts if not tight will allow movement. But following step four above, you should be able to over adjust and then when you are done it winds up in the correct place.

6. So in the end I got it looking good if not concourse. Just be patient and take your time. If you get frustrated just leave it and come back the next day to finish up.

 

11 or call Fraser!

excellent!!