You may have seen another post whereby I'm upgrading the A/C system. As part of that whole project I'm detailing the engine bay. I'm making it easier to access everything to paint as I've removed the hood, condenser, radiator, water pump, alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor, A/C drier, and distributor. The PO had already removed the Air Pump and de-smogged to a certain level. I would also like to clean up the Stromberg carburetor side of the engine by removing whatever isn't necessary. There seems to be a whole lot of plumbing both vacuum and A/C over there. Anybody have any suggestions as to going minimal? Can I use an older intake manifold and get rid of some stuff, but still retain the Strombergs. BTW, I have removed the water heated chokes and gone manual a while back. I'm also installing an aluminum radiator I got off EBay a while ago for a later XJ6 and it fits real well. Am considerting a later model waterpump and thermal fan clutch. Can I also remove the carbon canister under the right front wheelwell? I'm open to suggestions.


Many thanks, Bill

 

Hi,
I don't know much about the earlier engine's But I would love to see the Radiator you picked up care to share PIC, Link or something?

On My XJC I will be installing a AJ16s however on my old car I entertained the below system. check it out!

http://www.pattonmachine.com/

Good luck!

Rusty

 

These are the photos when I bought it off EBay. And the fourth photo is it dry fitted up. It's thinner than the stock and I'm going to go with a new condenser, but I haven't chosen what it's going to be yet.

 

That looks Nice! Got any more bumper brackets like those!

Thx.

Rusty

 

My SII engine is pretty cluttered, even with the air pump and associated plumbing removed. The a/c pipes running across it don't help. I do have the individual air cleaners on the Strombergs which opens up some space versus the long single air filter, and they sound good too. The fuel cooler attaches to the hot air pickup that runs over the engine, so I'm working on a custom bracket to hold the fuel cooler in place and then I can remove that pickup.

I think the vacuum lines on my carb side are all needed for HVAC and the brake booster. I have twin electric fans versus the original belt driven room so that opens up some room at the front.

Did you use a particular manual dual choke conversion kit? Mine was set up by the PO with single choke, but I'd like to covert to dual manual choke for those cold mornings.

 

It was a kit but I did it 13 years ago and haven't a clue where I got it. But it could have been Joe Curto. Was actually thinking of doing away with the A/C fuel cooling plumbing and the water tube behind the carbs and mount the carbs directly to the intake manifold the way S1's are.

 

Fuel cooler helps with vapor lock, common on carbed cars ...if the AC is working. Careful removing the charcoal canister, fuel needs to overflow somewhere when the changeover or return valves go bad. If that line is plugged it could end up leaking out of the vapor tubing in the rear pillars. Rather a fire under the front fender than in the back seat.

 

Any thoughts from anyone on me replacing the S2 waterpump, clutch and fan to a later Series? And if so, what?

Thanks, Bill

 

I have a Sanden condenser, thin and fits the space well. I also have Ford (1990's) twin electric fans fitted.

 

I will look into the Sandon condensor as I wsnt to replace my stock one. Any thoughts on me replacing the waterpump, clutch and fan to a newer style?

 

1. I vote for the electric fan assembly to replace the mechanical one. Less clutter, more efficient. win-win. My lump cools perfectly with a pair., Their etiology unknown.


2. The charcoal cannister is hidden away nicely behind the outboard right light. Unobtrusive in my view. But, it is a part f the closed loop tank vent system. Good for we humans. Old cars merely vented to the atmosphere.


3. Carb'd cars in many specie are prone to vapor lock in hot climes.
Cooling the fuel via the HVAC is elegant. A lot depends on the fule lines and their proximity to a heat source. Exhaust being the lead culprit. But, in these cars, the restricted space in the engine bay is a likely cause.


4. Vacum does a lot in these cars. Brakes, heater valve, distributor. and possibly some sensor/s, I suggest seeking a diagram of the lines and see if they can be reduced? or at least simplified. A vacuum tree???


Carl.

 

I don't know that the water pumps changed through the years, I think they look the same. My '86 L6 cools fine as far as the water pump is concerned. I did change the fan clutch and fan for GM units (metal fan) and it works great and costs lots less. Can replace it on the road too at any parts house. Nothing wrong with electric either.

 

RE: Electric Radiator Fans.......
We attended a rather Large show a few years ago, in quite a remote area, on a HOT summer day, where one of the entrants toasted his Very Expensive engine because his electric fan(s) failed. His Beautiful car was carried away on the Yellow Flat Bed. I don't even want to Think of the tow charge.

Someone suggested I put one (or 2) on Nix, but I said, No Thank You!! I don't even have a clutch fan because one left me in the lurch once. I'll stick with the steel fan I have.
(';')

 

That being said, I will stick with my viscous clutch and steel fan and spring for the water pump that fits that. And... I'm adding two 12" electric fans. Also have an aluminum radiator I'm going to try out (see pics above).

 

Elinor:


Whew, indeed, that was a sad tale. Fans can fail., electric or mechanical.
But, an over heat can be avoided, sans any fan. At speed, either does much as to engine cooling.


But, a steel fan, sans clutch is living on the edge. The steel flexes. embrittlement results. Blade departs. Huge mess.


Circa 1050 or so, three of us were on a last kid "hurrah". Each of us were on the way to "adult' independence. Roy's 39 Ford chosen to take us from West Texas to California. It was well worn and ate
oil, but ran well. No issue, I got a case of Texaco through my job at cost. Whew, it ate it all one way !! got another case via Roy's uncle,
Union 75 executive.


Oh.... going from Blythe, CA to AZ, the fan, attached to the generator parted !!! At night, was SOP for the time in summer. Chawed on the radiator !!! But, we had tools and skills. Pulled the radiator and by flash light , Pinched off the bad tubes. Put it back and added water. On the way. No heat issues, sans fan !! At Desert Center, we found a radiator shop. Acustomed to those issues. soldered off the pinched tubes. Now, day light, but with a weep free radiator, albeit still sans fan, we went for home. OK, we made it.


Roy's old Ford got a remake. It took him to CA and a career in astro physics,


The cars will run cool sans fans in some circumstanced. But other physical forces will destroy metal.


Carl

 

Clarke - I can't find the Sanden condenser that you have. Would love to school off someone who has done this before. It looks like you eliminated the mechanical belt driven fan altogether? What A/C compressor did you use? Thank you, Bill

 

Hi all,
the nemisis of my car ownership has been failed viscous coupled fans, particularly on Rover 3500 VDP I had in the past.
i have never got over my hatred of them, only matched by poor quality thermostats.
i personally would feel far more confident with two independent electric fans with thermo-switch and manual override. An extra overheat warning system may also provide piece of mind.
i actually dislike any large fan whizzing around where body parts can be inserted.
Al

 

On my LS1 converted 71 corvette I used Ford focus twin fans. Wired them in series for low speed and parallel for high speed, they get signal from the ecm for low speed and sig from the temp switch and/or ac switch for high speed. Works a treat (fuel injected). But the focus fans are great, better than expensive aftermarket. Run heavy gauge wiring and relays of course. I mention this because a chevy radiator this size will fit in a jag conversion so these fans will prob fit the jag radiator.

 

Are any of these the fans you installed?

 

The condenser came with the car so can't help with a supplier. I used a "Sanden Style" compressor off ebay. The belt only drives the water pump now. And temp sits well below 1/2 even in Aussie summers.

Any duel fan will do the job as long as it doesn't interfere with with other moving parts. Mine is about the same dimension as the radiator core and held to the radiator with two screws at the bottom panel & two at the top shroud.

Link to the Air con thread below.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-142473/page4/