Not Bad, Clarke!! Not the price, not the service!
The only time we get service like that is from Summit Racing and that's only because their warehouse is a mere 200 miles away.

But we Pay for that service, sometimes through the nose!
(';')

 

Yup, Racing ain't cheap ! But, is anything "cheap".


Not forgetting that "cheap" can be "expensive".


Front yard lumber jack work in progress. Limbs and trunks down
via a neat little Remington electric chain saw. Slash getting chopped
to recycle can size.


Gonna take a while !!!


And, now, gotta deal with tankless water heater! It ain't
heating.


Well, at least the Jeep and Jaguar are on line...


Carl

 

I fitted the new Sanden "style" compressor today then headed off to see Dr Phill to have it re gassed.
Only problem we had was the ports were too close together for the standard connections from the gauges to fit, but a bit of lateral thinking from Phill had it sorted in no time.



The cabin temperature range is from 16c (62f) - 24c (76f), got to be happy with that when it was 34c (93f) today.

 

My S1 with a Sanden compressor shows 40F side vent temps when the ambient is 90F.. the new add on center vents are even colder.

Mine is filled with R134 and works GREAT!

 

You've got to do something about that bonnet liner.

Graham

 

Bravo Clarke & Dr Phil! Good job.

I might hit you up for some questions later in the new year as I want to eventually do the "Sanden" upgrade to my XJS as well.

Enjoy the cool!

But heh....there is one thing missing. If it was a Clarke & Dr Phil get together where are the "other coolants?"

 

On the "to do" list, bottom of the list but will get done eventually.

Work day.

 

Two days in and it's coming out again tomorrow, got a small leak at the front of the compressor. Small bubbles and an oil dribble at the front o-ring seal. Vacced down ok and showed no sign of leaks.
Will go a replacement this time around but will go for the refund if number two fails.

 

Ideas from a decidedly non/expert.


1. A bit of oil ooze is intentional so as to keep the seal cool and flexible?
I noted that in a past Ford unit. It even had a bit of a wick showing. It cooled like the Antartica.


2. My Jeep used to leak a bit, so as to require a can of R134A each season. A tag on it indicated a sealer had been added in the past.
I used a can with refrigerant and added sealer. Two seasons, cooool.
We will see about this year.


Odd that it could hold a vacumn yet ooze under pressure?


Add a bit of sealer???


Carl

 

Yes odd that it didn't leak on the vacuum pump. We are thinking once it got hot after a day or two of use it developed a leak.

Touch more than an ooze, about two tiny bubbles per second once there was oil pooled there. After ten minutes the oil was just starting to run downhill.

 

Mine kept losing the charge and AC guy found a pretty big bubble in the metal under the O ring at the rear.. filed it all flat and now it seals fine.

He found it with the leak tester.. it beeped like crazy after putting in some more coolant.. there was some oil around the area.

There must be another reason your vent temps are so high or it is just the coolant you are using that is the difference....

Have you upgraded the stock condenser to a modern flowing one? Blocked all the air flow around the radiator edges with AC foam?

The difference between 40F and 62F is huge in the comfort level of the people inside the car. It gets to 111F here in the So Cal summers.. I need the additional cooling with a BRG car and black interior.

 

I could see the leak bubbling. Didn't need the sniffer to find it.

Are you measuring in the vent? 40f or 4.4c is a tad too cold for my liking even on a 40c+(104f) day. My measurements were taken mid cabin on a 34c(93f) day. I didn't assume people measure from the vent, I thought room temp measurement would be normal.
16c(61f) is more than comfortable even on a hot day.

New and modern style condenser fitted.
https://hychill.com.au/products/minus-30

 

Ive had two compressors done in the last year and both places measured at the vent. I think its just to get some consistency and take the ambient air temp more out of the equation (eg. Melbourne in winter). If you can pull those down, everything else is adjustable to get the cabin temp you feel happy with.

 

Every AC system I've ever has worked on (different cars, different techs) measured output temp at the vent.
(';')

 

Me also.

The S2 cars were always 3 to 4c at the vent.

The XJ-S was 3c constant.

The Black S is 2c.

If you have what you have, all good in my opinion.

Bugga on the leak, sadly Chinese quality control is non-existant, and we see that sort of thing at work daily. Very frustrating, for us and the customer.

 

All the shops I have had AC work done at measure at the vents... that is the cold air source.

I can turn the cool down but to test they always have it on Coldest setting and the fans on High. He uses a digital thermometer similar to your picture and I have a very small AC thermometer in the LH side vent all the time.

The add on center vents are usually a degree or two colder as they come from the bottom of the evaporator and not reheated by the plastic tubing to the side vents.

The two are within a degree of each other - his actually showed 39F... my upgraded rear view mirror shows the OT from a sensor in the lower grill... it is accurate and compares to the temperature shown on the display from the EFI unit...

When it is over 100F the difference in comfort is nice to have, I usually run around with the upgraded GM fans on Low and the temp a little less than the Coldest setting with the air in Recirculation mode. The "hat" in the rear package tray is covered underneath with a plastic bag so the inside air is not sent outside per Jaguar.. I can open a vent or a window if I want my heated or cooled air to go back outside.

 

Yeah, way back circa 1957, I was issued a company car for use at my assignment in CA's very hot Imperial valley. A 57 Chevvy six with added on Mark IV AC. Under dash. Very popular at the time. Marginal at 120 F + ambient numbers. I got a HO ok to get it checked at an independent
AC shop. With a box fan in Front of the radiator, he did his best to "down" the vent #'s. Including a swap of the Ranco valve and a recharge. A slight reduction in F's. It is what it is was his conclusion.


OTH, the market rep that shared office space with me had the same car, but with factory air. Better, definitely.


I merely lived with it til trade time. A Ford. V8 and auto !! Wowee.
it's factory air far superior....


Carl

 

Compressor #2 in and on vacuum pump, all good so far.
Going back to the R134a gas instead of Hichill

 

Why ya doin' that, Clarke?
(';')

 

Dr Phill has a constant supply on hand. Re gassed with Hichill twice at cost.
Saving some pennys.

All seems to working as it should so far.