On You Tube I watched "Living With A Classic" change the hoses and o-rings on an XJS V12 similar to mine. I have heard numerous stories about the hoses aging, drying, cracking, and spewing raw gas which quickly ignites. He recommended a kit from Master Injector UK. I went to their website and saw the same kit that he used and placed an order, but sent them an email to confirm that it was correct for my car. I included the VIN in addition to it being a 1990 OTS w/ the 5.3L V12. Master Injector UK just responded to my email and said that they would need the number on my injectors to determine if it is the correct kit. To say that I was nonplussed at this is an understatement. In other words, I have to pull everything apart in order to find an injector number...that may or may not work for the kit I ordered.

If anyone has done this for a 1990 model (end of VIN 170094) and knows what the injector number would be, please inform me. Thanks in advance.

Eric

 

I bought the kit off them and got the same question. Mine is an 88 V12. I was also suprised it matters. Maybe find a sales ad for new bosch OEM injectors for a '90 and see what injector model # they list?

 

The Jaguar Parts website seems to indicate there are 2 types of injectors fitted to 5.3 HEs. One with a "long hose" and one with a short hose. If you then google the 2 Jaguar part numbers (Part 4 on illustration) it seems fairly easy to find the relevant Bosch x-reference number. So, if you know whether you've got a long or short hose, then it seems you can work out the correct Bosch number.

Genuine Fuel Rail And Injectors-5.3 Litre (5.3 Litre) For Jaguar Xjs Sports Coupe/convertible 1975 - 1996 Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Cheers

Paul

 

Because there are 10 short hoses required and 2 long hoses, foir the front two injectors. The actual injectors are identical.

 

The website to which Paul directed me, JagurarLandRoverClassic and of which I was familiar, indicates 2 5.3 sets (at least I think that they are set since they're both in the GBP 150 range) with either short or long hoses. The kit that Mr Injector UK sells seems to have only one type of hose. However, Greg, you are suggesting that each car has 2 type, short and long. Is that correct? I need to get under my hood/bonnet and look closely at the hoses. Sian of Mr. Injector suggested that the injector numbers may be visible from above on the shoulder of the injector, however if they are all the same, it shouldn't matter at all. Curiouser and curiouser.

 

I am with Greg and others.

ALL HE 5.3 had 12 hoses, 10 the same length, and 2 longer (for the 2 front injectors on each bank)
BUT this changed in 1992iah, with a different rail, and "plug in" Injectors, totally different arrangement all together. Just for information, not confusion.

SOME, and I mean SOME markets had Cold Start Injectors, midway on the Inlet manifold, between #3 and 4 Injector, BUT, I reckon your year model and market had deleted them, just saying. This added 2 hoses, and length was as measured at the time.

Some suppliers get all carried away, and after 55 years in Auto Spare Parts, I have heard it all. Bloody frustrating and unnecessary.

I use EFI hose off teh ro;ll, and just doe t

 

I'm certainly down with creating my own hoses, but what about the sleeves, collars, and mounting rings? Mr. Injector UK seems to have all of that in his kit even I make my own hoses. Unless there's a better source, his kit (for USD147) looks okay. To be clear, I'm good with trying anything as I've been wrenching since I was 20 both personally and professionally. I just don't want to get into it and find I'm missing important stuff.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Most appreciative.

 

Not sure this helps, but FYI the # off an injector off my '88 V12 is below

 

Awesome! Thank you.

 

Eric,
I understand we be strange to most people, its an Aussie thing.

I have done too many fuel hose jobs to remember. NEVER needed anything but hose. The cups, etc, are fine.. Read my sticky re that. Damage by some clown before we good guys got the car is possible, but a 1990, maybe not. That sticky explains how I get around that with Minimal fuss and $$ being consumed.

Time consuming, yes.

 

Thank you,.Grant for the PDF that describes your technique leaving the injectors in place. I went under my hood/bonnet just now and looked closely at the 10 short hoses and 2 long curved ones in front on #s 1 & 2 cylinders. No splits or leaks, but they are not particularly flexible. I'm going to do the replacement and try cutting my own EFI hose. I haven't decided whether to leave the injectors in place or not. On the plus side of leaving them, I don't have to worry about the collars and o-ring thingys. On the minus side is the difficulty pressing the hoses onto the barbed fittings, trying to coordinate pressing 10 short hoses at the relatively same time, whether starting from the fuel rail or from the injectors. And I'm more convinced than ever that Mr Injector UK does not need to know the injector numbers.

Interestingly enough (which makes me suspicious that someone prior to my ownership was mucking about), the left curved front hose has a single use clamp on it, although not placed directly on the barb, and the right side does not. I should add that I bought the car about 10 years ago with 70K miles. It now has 77K miles on it. I do love driving it (never in the rain and we don't get snow). It's a dream at speed. I have done a bit of work on it (rebuilt the rack and power steering pump and replaced the hoses, pulled the radiator and had leaks fixed, rebuilt the rear brake calipers and ER brake system with the IRS still on the car....on a 4 post lift, rewired the quarter windows and top to eliminate the computer, messed with the dash lights to brighten them). I turn the battery switch off after every drive since it drains whilst sitting. I read about a resistor or relay on the A/C system that goes bad and pulls constant power which may be my problem but digging around under the dash is not fun (ask me how I know) so I'll live with it. Would like to sort the cruise control system and get some heat flowing in the winter. The joy of Jags.

Thanks again for everyone's interest and help.

 

Eric,

Its a rock and hard place refitting the new hoses.

I have done the Injectors out and the whole shooting match, BUT, ya still got 10 Injectors dangling, and those Tip Seals in the Inlet are too easily dislodged. A helper made the difference, but we still screwed 3 of those seals.

The cut through and leave the Injectors in place, came from that frustration, credit MUST go the daughter (15 at the time).
I do it hoses ON the Injectors, then the A Bank 5 first, lay the rail over a tad more and line up the B Bank 5, much easier. The 2 long are done after, and cut too the spec of that particular car.

Always a helper though, its just quicker, and the beer waits for no man, as any V12 owner SHOULD know.

 

The correct Mr Injector kit has the 10 short and the 2 long hoses, plus the seals, filter baskets, pintler caps, ferrules etc. It would be a mistake to change just the hose without doing all the seals etc. This is the correct kit for the HE pre facelift cars;

https://www.mrinjectoruk.co.uk/produ...ors-2mtrs-hose

 

I've made my decision on what to do. I'm kind of in the camp of 'do it right the first time', i.e., don't replace a bad release bearing without replacing the entire clutch system in the bell housing. I think Greg in France is right that it would be a mistake not to replace all of the fiddly bits and just do the hoses. However, I love Grant's approach to removal...so simple. On the installation side and to avoid dropping the o-rings, I'll install each injector individually with hose (short hosed 10) and then follow Grant's approach to pressing them on 5 at a time.

I ordered the big kit with the delivery and return hosing/clamps to go whole hog. I could have re-ordered the short kit without the long length of EFI hose and clamps for almost USD100 less but decided that if I'm doing it, I should cover the other hoses as well. BTW, Sian of Mr Injector UK immediately refunded my money after our email discussion of whether his kit would fit and my cancellation until I could be sure. Nice ethical company whom I would recommend to others.

Thanks guys for your contributions. I'll let y'all know how it turns out. I may wait for a little warmer weather to do the deed.

Eric

 

I am full agreement with doing the entire project at once, especially given the age of the car. The hose length doesn't have to be perfect but close will do. On my car I used 1 7/8" for the short ones x 10 and 3 7/8" for the two front ones. Careful not to nick the barbs when cutting the old hose off.

Couple of other points.
1. Replace the hose on the fuel rail Input and Output lines. These are held in place with collars that are impossible to find anymore. You can use ferrules to hold the new hose in place (my preferred choice) or screw on clamps.
2. At a minimum clean the injectors. Soak them in a solvent. It is likely given the age that one or more of the injectors are clogged. Ideally do a pressure/spray test on them before reinstalling
2.a. Replace any split pintle covers. Will probably need to warm the new ones up to soften them enough to press on to the retaining rings. OR you can buy a special tool to press them on.
3. Don't forget to replace the fuel hoses that go from the firewall to the pressure regulators. You can use clamps or ferrules to connect them as well.
4. When you get a chance to get the car elevated replace the fuel hoses, that connect to fuel line pipes, that go over the rear suspension cage. They can split with age as well, especially the one on the passenger side since it is under pressure from the fuel pump. Screw type clamps work well here.
5. Finally, the EFI's have little 'pins' protruding from the pintles. It is possible for them to retract in the EFI during this work. Use a 9v battery with wire leads to each EFI to get them to extend again. You cannot shake or tap them back out.

Pack of replacement Bosch EFI pintle covers: $3-4 on ebay
Additional ferrules: About $4 ea from U.S. suppliers, i.e. Welsh, Terry's, etc...
EFI hose. A box of 30' Goodyear EFI hose was about $40 IIRC. Make sure to get the correct diameter. It's an odd size.

Finally my personal recommendations.
If you are this deep into the 'Vee' go ahead and replace the spark plugs, 8mm plug wires (Rock Auto about $40)(they have a custom set for Jag V-12's), distributor vacuum advance (not cheap), and service the centrifugal advance on the distro shaft to ensure it is 'springy.'

Additional replacement parts could include:
new fan
all radiator hoses
all four belts
T-stats
Remove radiator top cover and pull out radiator to clean out space between radiator and A/C condenser and the oil cooler.
let gas tank get low then drain remaining gas thru sump tank plug accessed thru hole in trunk from under the car. Once drained open sump tank (or better yet remove) and remove and clean sump tank sock filter, use magnet to clean out any rust particles in sump tank OR with sump tan removed rinse thoroughly with water - dry completely before reinstalling. Replace main fuel filter located behind spare tire.

Once you're through all that you can turn to the brakes and suspension

Good luck

 

Thank you for the suggestions.