There are no off the shelf tees available to easily add a port. Adding a valve would require a custom fabrication and install.

 

The vehicle can sit overnight or it can sit for a couple of minutes, it still takes a bunch of revs to start.

After it starts it runs great, since I retired it!!!! I can tromp on the pedal and it jumps!!!!!

I have both a used but working cam sensor and injectors on the way.

Softball60/Paul

 

The only tricky part of the fab is getting the parts OFF the car and removing the fuel from them.
Since this issue is not isolated to only you, it would probably be worthwhile to install a port.
There were a dozen times in three years that required this shop tool.
Anyone with basic pluming and mechanical skills would be able to fab it.
Since all fuel injection systems are NOT created equal, each make would require it's own adapter.
I don't have any Jaguar fuel lines available to me, or I would fab them and sell them.

 

If I removed that fuel hose, it might make sense to just take it to one of those hose shops that specializes in that sorta thing?

I wasn’t successful in finding a barbed fitting with a schrader port that would work with fuel.

 

Not sure whether this would work for you.
T with Schrader

 

I think that barbed fittings would not be appropriate for the high pressure of fuel injection.
That's why I think it would be safer and stronger to sweat a 'T' on to the metal portion.
It's too common for the XJS to go on fire as it is.

 

Barbed is fine on these - wouldn't describe them as high pressure when compared to new cars, if it is anything like mine a number of the connections onto and off the engine end in barbed fittings. The main metal feed line on the drivers side of mine ends with a barb in the engine bay, as does the metal return on the passenger side. Just be sure to use an appropriate fuel clamp designed for the job not a jubilee clip as some do.

 

I'm certainly not an expert but why do you think the 5.3 engine operates at less pressure than the 6.0?
A few minutes ago I came up with a "cunning plan".
If you were to get a proper fuel line from a breaker yard, I could give the fabrication a try.
Others might be interested but I no longer have any Jaguars.

 

Because I just serviced my entire 5.3 fuel system including cleaning and refurbing the injectors. Running pressure is 32 or so PSI and that's by the book, there is some conflict in the book that mentions 3 bar but that is standing not running (primed) even that ain't high by modern standards. The 6.0 is as far as I know the same, the fuel rail should prime to a little over 40 PSI and remain at or above 35 PSI or so for an hour or two after shut down.

A lot of early injection systems used barbs and clamps.

It is important to understand that fuel pressure isn't the only thing to consider - flow is a must - you can have pressure and still have insufficient flow especially at high RPM - the resulting lean mixture in V12's leads to bad things happening.

 

Thanks to this great audience and in particular to one (1) of our great moderators......Grant Francis!!! You people led me in the correct direction.

Knew it had to be crank or cam sensor because everything else on the fuel side was brand new and it ran great after it would finally fire up.

IT WAS THE CAM SENSOR!!!!!!!

Finally got a used distributor w/cam sensor. Installed and fired up on first 1/2 rev.................

Now on to:

1. The Cruise Control not functioning. I believe it is the vacuum pump just not sucking enough!! Maybe check valve?
2. Repainting my hood ( Whole another story). You will be surprised on my repair paint method.

Will let you know on both items

Thanks

Softball60/Paul

1996 XJS 2+2
1957 XK 140 Drophead
Every other British Sports Car known to mankind (maybe not all)

 

The AJ6 and AJ16 engines are not known to go on fire. That's a v12 issue. (Not saying it can't happen, it can happen to most any gasoline engine, it just isn't a common issue as it is with the v12 due to the distributor)

The fuel pressure regulator is set to about 40, no more than 45psi. I would imagine that the barbed fitting should never see more than that?

 

Just another Question:

Since yesterday and installing a working Cam Sensor the car seems to be running even smoother than before the cam sensor issue.

When I removed the distributor and retired (Got it Dead nuts on top dead center)................Not sure I understand.......When Grant explained how to reinstall he mentioned that you just have to get it close and the electronics would take care of the correct timing.

I swear this thing is running smoother than ever before.....It even seems to be quicker when I stomp on the pedal.

Am I exaggerating or is this a function of a correct cam sensor.....Maybe the original was causing more than just starting issues????

Thanks

Softball60/Paul
1957 XK 140 Drophead
Every English sports car known to man (maybe not every)

 

New sensors might have a more accurate signal, mine sure liked new O2 sensors felt like a much quicker throttle so who knows but it sounds like your all sorted and in better shape now!