I own a 1988 Hess & Eisenhart XJS. When I purchased the car a forum member posted that my car belonged to the junkyard, but my car is complete and running.
The pump you need for the lower tank (inside the car) is CARTER P74096. This is a low pressure lift pump to push fuel from the lower tank to the upper tank.
As far as the fuel sender assemblies go, the dials on both have to be clocked at 2 o'clock in order to synchronize them.

pic of my Hess car when I bought it 2 years ago

 

Sanchez,

What exactly means 'the dials on both have to be clocked at 2 o'clock in order to synchronize them.'

Can you send a pic please? Is the red dial indicator (and if yes at full or empty?) or the connecting wire ?

Thanks.

 

A simple method helped me (I don't know if it's correct, but it works). I filled the tanks, loosened the screws holding the plastic part and turned them gently until the indicator on the clock showed "full".
As for the low pressure lift pump, it must have sufficient pumping capacity. If the tank in the boot is empty, then in a sharp left turn the fuel will be lost at the inlet for the pressure pump. And the engine will stop. An unpleasant situation at the crossroads.

 

Line up the dial as indicated in the photo

arrow shows dot. Line up to the middle of the red area
Loosen the 3 phillip screws and turn plastic dial to line up marks.

 

Thanks Sanchez,

Sorry do not want to seem dumb but just to check for sure where are the 3 screws located? I see only 2 that keep the entire gauge in place.

And the photo you sent is with full tank for the rear upper tank I guess?

2 o'clock for the internal tank is when you sit inside in front of the tank looking versus the rear of the car?


'Loosen the 3 phillip screws and turn plastic dial to line up'

PS: Your car looks great. Did you replaced the top?

 

Roman, Sanchez,

Have you sourced new gauges from Rochester somehow?

and also how you did with the fuel pump seal. mine was broken when removing pump.

Thanks

 

No. There was no talk with them in Europe (no answer from representative in Belgium), the US headquarters answered me some 5 years ago and then just kept silent on my questions.
But I have their markings for the new gauges.

 

This means that you fixed the issue with the 'turning' procedure. I will try as well before attemting to find replacement.

Now I have an issue with sealing the fuel pump to internal tank.

Old seal is broken, made a new one but does not seal!

 

Yes, turning it helped that the indicator on the clock shows the "approximate" state of the tanks. Sealing the lower (inner) tank is a problem. The sheet metal is thin and the screw cannot be tightened properly (at least for me). I solved it with two aluminum counter pieces, the hole for the screw does not go through, into which the screw can be tightened well and sealed with silicone for tanks. See photo. In my opinion, there is no replacement for gauges, they need to be obtained from Rochester in some "peaceful" way

 

Thanks Roman.

I now use the Permatex No 1 on screews and also on a seal made locally from Klingherit coal and I hope will work. Will report back.

What type of tank silicone you found that works?

Thanks

 

Sorry, that was a typo. "Loosen 2 phillip screws". When I was working on my H&E,(May 2021) I had to remove both tanks to have them cleaned. The upper fuel tank Rochester gauge was a dud. I was able to acquire one on Ebay at the time. I tried the Rochester company and they told me that it was NLA.
I also had a broken tank seals and after talking to a few people that are in the trade, they recommended Permatex Ultra Grey. I used that in 2021 and to date I have no leaks.
I used it on both tanks.