XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

89 rear end bushings, & rubber.

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Old 09-28-2011, 12:29 PM
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Default 89 rear end bushings, & rubber.

Ok, So I've desided that the rear end needs to come out to service the brakes, clean it up etc.
Is the a complete bushing and rubber package I can order to complete this task or do I have to look at the cd-rom for parts list?

TIA
Peace
Neil
 
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Old 09-29-2011, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by thuffner3
Ok, So I've desided that the rear end needs to come out to service the brakes, clean it up etc.
Is the a complete bushing and rubber package I can order to complete this task or do I have to look at the cd-rom for parts list?

TIA
Peace
Neil
Hi Neil

The only rubber bushes are the ones that hold the rear cage to the chassis. All of the control arms etc use bearings. I am in the middle of doing mine now and bought the bearings from my local Jag supplier. Although most of these bearings parts are available from bearing suppliers.

Best way is to dismantle the rear and take the bearings seals and tubes to your local bearing suppler you will probably considerable less than I did - I just didnt have the time to get out.

When you do dismantle the rear label everything especially the spacers and shims as to where they came from.

Also while you have it out check the drive shaft universal joints are nice and free but not sloppy, mine were very tight so I had new ones installed in the drive shafts. I also did the diff new bearings seals and a set of 4.09 gears fell in there by accident. I would only do this if bearing are bad. Bearings and seals for the diff cost me $500 alone.

Rebuilding the rear is not a cheap exercise by the time mine is complete I guess it will have cost somewhere around $2500 to $3500 but I will never have to do it again. The previous owner had new brakes fitted and the discs show no sign of wear, what I have done is

Powder coat cage, LCA's and brackets - $450
Rebuild Diff with new gears - $1200 in parts I still have to pay the diff guys labour
Rebuild Hubs - sand blast hub carriers, install new bearings and paint wheels flanges. Dont know yet
Drive shafts balanced and new uni's fitted - dont know yet
New inner and outer fulcrum bearings, tubes and seals. New Raduis arm bushes - $450

I have ranted on a bit here but hopefully will help planning your project

cheers
Warren
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:40 PM
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Ok, This afternoon young John & I jumped into the rearend a 4.5" angle grinder makes quick work of all the rusty bolts and exhaust. The trailing arms broke free,we used a 6' spud bar. We don't yet have her out from under the car. I have to disconnect the driveshaft and brakelines. Tomorrow night John and I will disconnect the remaining parts and drag the rear out. I'll flip it over and start tearing it apart for brakes etc. I've got a sand blaster and a boatload of sand. I'm going to clean it up paint her up.

any input?
Peace
Neil, & Young John
 
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:37 PM
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i'm going for the same on my 89 xjr-s , first because the brakes are stuck and this is the first time i have ever done an "irs"
 
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Old 10-05-2011, 02:01 PM
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Well guys, The cage is out finally.
Young John & I are going to dis-assemble the cage this evening.
I have pictures of the cage from last night so as soon as I get my camera hooked up to this thing I will post them.

Peace
Neil
 
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:40 PM
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a big turtle.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:40 AM
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Hello, replying to an old thread, sorry. Newbie to the forum and newbie to Jag ownership. I have to replace my rear leaky brakes. Rearend is loose but I cant get the trailing arms loose from the car, any suggestions? They seem to be fused to my old 83' body? Please help.
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by timmy6
Hello, replying to an old thread, sorry. Newbie to the forum and newbie to Jag ownership. I have to replace my rear leaky brakes. Rearend is loose but I cant get the trailing arms loose from the car, any suggestions? They seem to be fused to my old 83' body? Please help.
Take a cold chisel, place it in the narrow gap between the top of the trailing arm and the cup on the body that it fits to, and whack it very hard a few times with a 4lb hammer. It will come off.

Greg
 
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:27 PM
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If Greg's suggestion does not work (it didn't for me) I ended up having to drill the rubber out in the large bush, this leaves the inner metal cup still on the tittie (as my wife calls them) then I used an angle grinder to carefully cut diagonally across the bush cup - be careful not to cut into the mount, and they came off reasonably easy then.
 
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