Apologies if this has been covered. I had a quick search and couldn't find much. I want to fit a higher amp alternator to the XJS. can anyone make some suggestions that don't involve a major surgery and three weks of my life that I can never get back....HaaaHa.
Thanks in advance Russell.

 

I fitted a 115 amp alternator to mine from the later 6 litre facelifts. It bolts straight on except that:

a) You have to drill out the fulcrum bracket holes it mounts through (ie swings to tighten the belt on) as the 115 amp has a 10 millimetre holes and the pre facelift bracket's holes are 8mm or so. Plus source a suitably long 10mm bolt to replace the original thinner one.

b) Normally a new alternator comes without a pulley, so you need to fit your original alternator's V belt pulley to it and space it carefully with shims/washers to align with the crank pulley.

This absolutely transformed the electrics on my car and I wish I had done it years ago. Well worth the couple of hours work it took.
Greg

 

Ok, thanks. that amount of work doesn't concern me. Do you remember the part number, by chance??? I'm considering moving the alternator where the air pump sits and ditch the air pump. Thanks again, this info is very helpful.

 

Greg has answered it well, as usual.

Since you are a Banana Bender, contact H & H Prestige in Melb, talk to Phil, he has/had the XJ40 Bosch with the correct pulley and thru bolt. I fitted one to mine, and that transformed the car and electrics (as Greg also said). That was a few years ago, but he is still there.

I would leave the alternator where it is. The tension of the belt to actually "drive" the a/c compressor can shorten the bearings in the alternator (MY opinion as usual), and simply ask Phil for the "idler bracket assembly" that replaces the air pump on earlier cars, both here and o/seas.

The snap shows that idler arm thingy on mine.

 

Sorry, I bought it from a non OEM source. Your compatriot Grant Francis will know though, he did the same thing (before me I might add) and told me how to do it!

Greg

 

Thanks gents....banana bender...mmmmm more like sugar cane hugger. Too hot here for bananas. Ahhh you southern mob been to close to great white country...Haahaa great reds though. I have a couple of bottles of Hill Of Grace in the cellar, I mean wine fridge. Thanks I'll talk to Phill.

 

Important point from the XJS Prophet. Also, because of the position of the crank and the alternator opposite each other, the belt on each pulley wraps around about 65% of the circumference, thus any belt slippage problems are greatly reduced and belt tension can be not too tight yet still give adequate grip.

greg

 

Yep, I concur. great getting experienced knowledge from people who know the product. I've owned quite a few jags and always will, and leaning every day!! The alternator stays where Jag intended it to be. Thanks for the advise.
regards Russell.

 

I forgot, I do that now.

You will need to run an extra +ve wire from the alternator battery post TO the +ve connector just near the brake booster. I used a 6mm Red wire with soldered terminals, and simply followed the chassis rail, and up under the booster, and onto the "post".

Then I added an extra Earth wire from the alternator to the chassis, just because.

 

Excuse the ignorance but what does the ve stand for????

 

"ve" is the abbreviation for VOLTAGE.

+ve = Positive Voltage

 

Close, and OK, but I am a tad fussy on abbrieviations, so no mis-understanding creeps in.

VE, is an abbreviation, as in:

Positive = +ve.
Negative = -ve.

When you peer into the depths of the beast down the engine side of the brake booster you will eventually see a rubber cover on the firewall, which is protecting the battery terminal on that side of the engine bay.

 

Ahhh many thanks. Now makes sense to me. Just checked and found the positive post....no cover!!!!don't like that at all. So this is the positive line to the battery? Charge line?
Regards Russell.

 

Yep.

That post is voltage HOT as long as the battery is connected.

There is the same on the LH side, in the same firewall mirror image.

It should be covered, too dangerous when uncovered.

 

One last question...maybe. Does anyone know the part number of the XJ40 alternator that retro fits???Please.

 

My parts book states:

115amp = DAC5224N. It is listed as NLA (No Longer Available).

Memory, haha, its from the later XJ40 with the multi V belt, but, fear not, Basch are very smart, and the shaft size of all 75amp upwards alternators is the same, fair dinkum clever little buggas.

Swap the pulley (Phil did this on mine) and the swap over is as difficult as removing the old alternator, and the bracket (for drilling), and repeat in reverse. The pullies line up, the belt is the same part number, so how simple do we want it to be.

I remove them from the top, air pump off, air pump bracket off, and if no air pump, the idler pulley arm and mounting bracket off, undo the alternator and lift it out. Remove the alloy bracket on the engine for drilling. On some I removed the RH radiator hose, it just gave that little bit more room.

 

I went from 65 amp to 80 amp alternator yesterday and added the extra +ve wire. Crimped and soldered then shrink wrapped.

I bought 2 metres of cable for $7.20 (WH3060)
and 8-10mm connectors for $3.45 for 10 pack (PT4936) from Jaycar

They also have a duel black/red cable if you want to run a -ve as well.

Store Locator | Jaycar Electronics.

Try Baxters for an alternator, they were way cheaper than anyone else.

Baxters - The driving force in automotive solutions

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jaguar-XJ...item20ef94404f

 

Thank you once again, I'll chase the part number through my Jag supplier, they can get superseded part numbers out of the UK. The 115 amp is appealing.

 

http://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/uk...rnator-120-amp120amp alternator fitted to later 6.0 litre V12 XJS

 

Excellent, thank you more options. Looks like I have located a DAC 5224N Brand new from one of my Land Rover parts suppliers We'll see when it arrives...