I read the posts related to hard starts, WOW, lots of potential causes, couldn't find one that matched exactly to my symptoms.
Car getting progressively harder to start first thing- outside temp is in the 70's car has just over 30K miles, been recommissioning using Grant's sticky's which are excellent.
Need to flutter the gas pedal till it catches. Notice it takes 20-30 sec of running before the tachometer gauge gets off the zero peg. Then takes another minute or so before it feels like it has any power.
My Oxy Sense light recently came on- hunting but haven't found that mystery counter reset that's supposed to be in the trunk.
Fuel system was drained, new filters, new fuel pump new hoses, new injectors & hoses, replaced AAV valve, new plugs. fresh battery has the two coil set up. Removed the air pump (plugged line to air filter box) replaced water temp sensor. Recently developed a vacuum leak somewhere in the HVAC box and lost the temp rheostat and fan, can hear a hissing in passenger well- trying to locate source but this hard start problem pre-dates this latest issue.
Thinking of replacing RH A bank FPR, (easy to do) read that the TPS can be out of adjustment (not sure how to do that) or that the throttle body clearance can be off (should be .002-.003) going to check that but seems like if it was that kind of issue it wouldn't just be a start problem. when warm the idle is right where it should be. Wondered about the ignition amp. Feels like some time component or perhaps the after market fuel pump isn't up to the task. Would welcome suggestions.

 

The “could be” list might get a little long.

A couple quick things….

When you turn the key “on” (without cranking the engine) do you hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds? You should.

Have a helper crank the engine while you put your hand on the fuel pump. Is the pump running with the starter engaged? It should be.

Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug thank you- Yes I do here the fuel pump running, in fact I cycle the key a couple times before taking all the way over to start in case that builds pressure on the fuel rail.

 

I'm thinking of trying to mount a fuel pressure gauge in the engine compartment- saw someone had done that- just to eliminate fuel pressure as an issue. I could put the old fuel pump back on and see if that makes a difference as well in case the reproduction isn't as effective.

 

Adding to Doug's suggestions.

NO NO NO to a fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay. The risk of fire is too high, and there are enough risks in the bay NOW. Your car, your call.

I DOUBT its fuel pressure.

When you have completed your cycling, leave the IGN ON, and rapidly push the accelerator pedal to the floor and back up again to idle position ONCE ONLY. That should "fire" the Injec[tors ONCE, thus squirting Bang Juice into the thing. Does this aid starting>??????

You mention Spark Plugs, HOW OLD are the HT leads, Dist Cap and Rotor ?????

O2 Sensor, NO IDEA, we NO Got them, but they are a trimmer ONLY, so not relayted.

Vac leak, HAHAHA, ya gotta sort that. The V12 is a Mongrel with Vac leaks anywhere.

RH FPR, dlete it, its a Pulse Damper,. and more trouble than it was supposed t solve. HAve a read below.

TPS, hell yes, read again, same for throttle discs etc. Read again.

How STRONG is the spark, MUST BE a Fat BLUE spark, anything less, and it will not start properly.

The low mileage worries me, as in blocked exhaust, lack of use etc.

You replaced the CTS unit, but, what about the wiring to the same, well documented as being flaky.

The fact you need to feather the throttle smells of Vac leak, AAV not opening properly, etc. Its all related. Remember, just coz its NEW does NOT mean it is working correctly, one would hope, but the real world says different.

 

I hesitate to slightly disagree with Grant; but I think it is well worth renewing the B bank fuel pressure regulator, they are not expensive and that removes one possibility from the list of causes. The A bank FPR should be removed and bypassed, ideally; it does not control fuel pressure.
Also, have you replaced the fuel filter and cleaned out and renewed the sump tank filter?
Did you replace the B bank CTS, as this is the one that tells the ECU the engine temp?
Also worth checking the integrity of the loom between the base of the dizzy and the Lucas box.

 

HI Grant and Doug, OK skipping the gauge idea, agree probably not fuel pressure. I did find & reset the unrelated Oxy Sensor this am. All leads, distributor, rotor are new. On the "Blue spark" question I guess I find a plug I can get out leave it touching the block and get someone to turn over the car and see how strong the spark is?
I will replace the wiring to the CTS unit, assuming any new heavier gauge auto wire will work. also going to look up how to set the ..003 valves. The exhaust pressure from both pipes seems about equal so hopefully no blockage. Will take me a little while to do all these steps and report back- the help is greatly appreciated.

 

HI Greg yes replaced fuel sump filter and fuel filter. (sump wasnt clogged) will try the other ideas as well and get back

 

No need to remove a spark plug for that test, bloody noisy way in fact.

That sucker WILL START with a missing plug, oh dear, the noise, and fuel spray, NO WAY McDuff.

Grab any old spark plug, clean it a little, dont waste too much time with that, and use that, laying it against one of the Dome Head Nuts.

Waaaay back a good may years, till they woke up, I asked a mate to hold the lead while I cranked, and the amount he jumped and swore was the indication of spark available. BUT, BUT, that was in the OLD days of points ignition and NOT these Hi Volt systems of today, AND, nobody had a Pacemaker.

 

[QUOTE=Grant Francis;2756792]No need to remove a spark plug for that test, bloody noisy way in fact.

Grab any old spark plug, clean it a little, dont waste too much time with that, and use that, laying it against one of the Dome Head Nuts.

The plug gap should be 25 thou.

 

Yep, but only really needed INSIDE the combustion chamber.. Out in the open air, not critical, as the open end of the lead held 10mm from an earth point will easily jump that.

Its the 12.5:1 comp we get, and the 11.5:1 they get, that marks in harder for that spark, hence the 0.025 gap.

 

Of course, I should have realized I can just pull a lead off. Yes I have an old plug- still had original Uniparts when I replaced with BPR6EFS. Thank you I will try that.

 

Well done.

Your Beer Count is getting low, you are Over Thinking things, not good.