Banging on the 1/4 wondow motor really works
if the window won't move.
What does the shock do, are the bearings/bushings stuck to the armature, or it an electric brush reseating that makes it start working again?
Talk about a half *** bubba fix, this is it.
Doug
What does the shock do, are the bearings/bushings stuck to the armature, or it an electric brush reseating that makes it start working again?
Talk about a half *** bubba fix, this is it.

Doug
A shock will work sometimes.
The motor drives a worm gear and it will stick at the end of travel.
There is a rubber "spider" in the worm wheel that should help the motor reverse, but it perishes or deforms over time.
Then it is pot luck if the motor will reverse.
Pull it apart and with luck you can reset the rubber spider, use a bit of rubber grease to bed it, and with luck you are good for a few more years.
I do not think you can buy a new spider.
The motor drives a worm gear and it will stick at the end of travel.
There is a rubber "spider" in the worm wheel that should help the motor reverse, but it perishes or deforms over time.
Then it is pot luck if the motor will reverse.
Pull it apart and with luck you can reset the rubber spider, use a bit of rubber grease to bed it, and with luck you are good for a few more years.
I do not think you can buy a new spider.
The P.O. put relays in back there, so a weak connection would have to be very close to the motor. But putting relays in doesn't mean he did a good job of connecting the wires to the spade type terminals.
Doug
Doug
Rubber spider in centre of plastic wormwheel
Cleaned up ready.
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These motors draw about 4A moving the window, and at end of travel they stall and draw 10A.
There are no limit switches, too complicated and not required.
The problem is when they stall they lock up the worm and wormwheel.
When you switch to reverse the torque might not be quite enough to unlock.
What is needed is a spring in the system which the motor "winds up" when it stalls at end of travel.
Now when it reverses it has the torque of the motor plus the unwinding of the spring which is enough to unlock.
The rubber spider is the spring, and without it the motor may or may not always reverse.
There are no limit switches, too complicated and not required.
The problem is when they stall they lock up the worm and wormwheel.
When you switch to reverse the torque might not be quite enough to unlock.
What is needed is a spring in the system which the motor "winds up" when it stalls at end of travel.
Now when it reverses it has the torque of the motor plus the unwinding of the spring which is enough to unlock.
The rubber spider is the spring, and without it the motor may or may not always reverse.
Hmmmmm.
Three small diameter (diameter slightly less than the rubber thickness) coil springs with a sufficient wire diameter/spring rate could replace the rubber piece.... slip the drive tangs into the middle of the spring coils.
Other than that, up/down button switch discipline could help, keep from jamming the motor in either position
Doug
Three small diameter (diameter slightly less than the rubber thickness) coil springs with a sufficient wire diameter/spring rate could replace the rubber piece.... slip the drive tangs into the middle of the spring coils.
Other than that, up/down button switch discipline could help, keep from jamming the motor in either position
Doug
Doug,
Part of the issue is that standard factory convertibles don't have separate switches for the rear windows. So you need to keep the Hood Up/ Down button depressed sufficiently long enough to ensure that the Hood has fully retracted or raised.
Paul
Part of the issue is that standard factory convertibles don't have separate switches for the rear windows. So you need to keep the Hood Up/ Down button depressed sufficiently long enough to ensure that the Hood has fully retracted or raised.
Paul
This is an H&E conversion, I have separate rear window switches. As mentioned, some PO installed relays that are back by the windows. or maybe Hess installed the relays, i don't know.
Doug
Doug
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