Beeping alarm /flashing lights
#41
I agree with the above post by MALC4D, but your battery should not be dead in a week unless you have a week (sic) battery. The easy way to trace a clandestine discharge is by pulling fuses and if I remember correctly, a meter between the positive side of the battery. When you pull the right fuse the discharge stops. Then you will know the circuit the discharge is in. With the XJS you could also remove one of the power lines in the engine compartment. That would cut your fuse pulling exercise in half. Hopefully, some other owner will help with this explanation.
#42
malc4d
I did not find an Eagle Picher CF-1.2 SLA battery that appears to be the original battery. Mine was marked 11 92. I assumed 11 92 was the date of manufacture. The 1.2 is the wattage. I found an Eagle Picher CF-6V4.5 SLA battery. It is larger, won't fit in the box, but small enough to go into the antenna compartment. They run about $11.00 and are all over the internet including eBay.
I worked on the nudge box and found the sensitivity pot had broken loose and soldered it.
I also noted that there were two spade connectors, one three contact and the other four contact. My nudge box was only connected on the three connector side and I found no other connectors nearby???
Connected everything up and shook the nudge box, but the only thing I saw or heard was the red LED flash in the box occasionally. I did not have the trunk closed but did have the locks on the doors also no backup battery. The yellow wires were separated and I joined them. From this description I thought you might recognize the problem, and would appreciate your input
By the way Jaguar calls it a Shock Alarm (fig 28, 1993 Electric Guide)and in the military we called it a Trembler use to prevent the movement of high explosives. I like Nudge Box; it's so British!
I did not find an Eagle Picher CF-1.2 SLA battery that appears to be the original battery. Mine was marked 11 92. I assumed 11 92 was the date of manufacture. The 1.2 is the wattage. I found an Eagle Picher CF-6V4.5 SLA battery. It is larger, won't fit in the box, but small enough to go into the antenna compartment. They run about $11.00 and are all over the internet including eBay.
I worked on the nudge box and found the sensitivity pot had broken loose and soldered it.
I also noted that there were two spade connectors, one three contact and the other four contact. My nudge box was only connected on the three connector side and I found no other connectors nearby???
Connected everything up and shook the nudge box, but the only thing I saw or heard was the red LED flash in the box occasionally. I did not have the trunk closed but did have the locks on the doors also no backup battery. The yellow wires were separated and I joined them. From this description I thought you might recognize the problem, and would appreciate your input
By the way Jaguar calls it a Shock Alarm (fig 28, 1993 Electric Guide)and in the military we called it a Trembler use to prevent the movement of high explosives. I like Nudge Box; it's so British!
Last edited by afterburner1; 04-24-2017 at 08:52 PM.
#43
This diagram is awesome!!!
A huge thank you for this! I finally got that disconnected and no longer have the battery drain issues. Somehow the security system is killing my battery and no clue how to fix it.
#44
This worked for me! I'd been fussing with locking, unlocking manually, trying the remote, key this way and that. I read this, got in the car, closed the door, pressed the fob 5 times in quick succession. The alarm sounded twice, then.....sweet silence! Central locking works too. No disconnecting scary plugs or brain surgery necessary!
#45
Hi Rob and Ragjag,
Thanks for sharing your method. I tried it out and it didn't work exactly the way you described but here is what DID work:
1. Battery hooked up and beeping and flashing
2...Enter car and swich in II position. Pressed remote 5 times and nothing happened.
3. Returned key to "0" position but left in place.
4 Pressed the remote five times- each time the remote was pressed the horn beeped.
5. And the beeping stopped. I removed the key and left the car and blessed silence!!
Now I can leave the car with the battery cut off switch disconnected so I don't have to worry about fire prevention.
What a reliefe!! Hope this works for you as well. Now I have to attend to front end alignment. The XJS Service manual has figures for castor, camber and toe-in in the XJS 3.6 and XJS- 3.6 section but there is nothing in the 4.0L section so I assume they are the same. My car pulles a little to the right on the road and I notice that the right front wheel is toed out excessively and has negative camber. I've been told that 1/8" toes in is best.
Thanks again for your messages and happy motoring!!
Jim S stix66rb
Thanks for sharing your method. I tried it out and it didn't work exactly the way you described but here is what DID work:
1. Battery hooked up and beeping and flashing
2...Enter car and swich in II position. Pressed remote 5 times and nothing happened.
3. Returned key to "0" position but left in place.
4 Pressed the remote five times- each time the remote was pressed the horn beeped.
5. And the beeping stopped. I removed the key and left the car and blessed silence!!
Now I can leave the car with the battery cut off switch disconnected so I don't have to worry about fire prevention.
What a reliefe!! Hope this works for you as well. Now I have to attend to front end alignment. The XJS Service manual has figures for castor, camber and toe-in in the XJS 3.6 and XJS- 3.6 section but there is nothing in the 4.0L section so I assume they are the same. My car pulles a little to the right on the road and I notice that the right front wheel is toed out excessively and has negative camber. I've been told that 1/8" toes in is best.
Thanks again for your messages and happy motoring!!
Jim S stix66rb
I have a 93 4.0 XJS Vert. A new battery swap on a recent road trip lead on the annoying beeping and flashing just as described in these threads. When I got home (where I kept my unused remote key fob) - cleaned up fob battery connections & new battery. I followed the instructions below - they worked!
1. Battery hooked up and beeping and flashing
2.Enter car and switch in II position. Pressed remote 5 times and nothing happened.
3. Returned key to "0" position but left in place.
4 Pressed the remote five times- each time the remote was pressed the horn beeped - Yes now I know remote key fob actually works, Horn stopped beeping after 4 or 5th press of the remote key fob.
5. And the beeping stopped. I removed the key and left the car and very blessed silence!!!!
Thanks again
Neil
#46
Well the beeping and flashing has been cured - more through luck and last minute exasperation than anything else.
Here's what I did (and yes it seems to be a hybrid of every comment above)
1. Unlock all doors and boot manually.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Leave for some time (I'd left it overnight)
4. Reconnect battery
5. Insert ignition key
6. Press fob five times in quick succession holding it close to the steering column. The bulb out warning light on the dash flashed five times
The beeping stopped!
Then deactivated the immobiliser as normal and car started.
Interestingly the central locking now runs off the fob which it never did before - even with a new battery.
Thanks to every one who offered suggestions.
Here's what I did (and yes it seems to be a hybrid of every comment above)
1. Unlock all doors and boot manually.
2. Disconnect the battery.
3. Leave for some time (I'd left it overnight)
4. Reconnect battery
5. Insert ignition key
6. Press fob five times in quick succession holding it close to the steering column. The bulb out warning light on the dash flashed five times
The beeping stopped!
Then deactivated the immobiliser as normal and car started.
Interestingly the central locking now runs off the fob which it never did before - even with a new battery.
Thanks to every one who offered suggestions.
#47
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